Weird CEL..... no powertrain codes...
#1
Weird CEL..... no powertrain codes...
So riding home today, the truck briefly hick-up'd, dash lights came on and gauges went dead for a second, (like it has been doing, I was suspecting a CPS) except this time the engine did NOT cut out. It just hick-up'd and kept going. Except the CEL came on...and stayed on. First time this has happened since I got the truck.
So after charging the laptop...
I checked for codes. NO p-codes. The ones I DID have were all "Hybrid Electronic Cluster" codes.... GEM codes. :doh:
U1059 - SCP (J-1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Transmission/Transaxle/PRNDL
C1284 - Oil Pressure Switch Failure
U1027 - SCP (J-1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
U1262 - SCP (J-1850) Communication Bus Fault
B1352 - Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure
So after charging the laptop...
I checked for codes. NO p-codes. The ones I DID have were all "Hybrid Electronic Cluster" codes.... GEM codes. :doh:
U1059 - SCP (J-1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Transmission/Transaxle/PRNDL
C1284 - Oil Pressure Switch Failure
U1027 - SCP (J-1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM
U1262 - SCP (J-1850) Communication Bus Fault
B1352 - Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure
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#10
Ok, so update time:
I changed the CPS on Wednesday from the black one to the recall/grey one.... drove fine for a couple days until this morning....and once again driving the engine just shut off. I slap it into neutral, it won't re-start. I quickly (while rolling at 50mph) turn the key off/on and it starts back up like normal.
This is just a really weird issue. I'm going to start with checking the main harnesses as best I can for any issues. (Fraying/cuts.) I will also check the grounds that I can find....
Does anyone have a list of all the ground locations?
I'm debating removing the chip as well just to rule that out.
Any other ideas?
I changed the CPS on Wednesday from the black one to the recall/grey one.... drove fine for a couple days until this morning....and once again driving the engine just shut off. I slap it into neutral, it won't re-start. I quickly (while rolling at 50mph) turn the key off/on and it starts back up like normal.
This is just a really weird issue. I'm going to start with checking the main harnesses as best I can for any issues. (Fraying/cuts.) I will also check the grounds that I can find....
Does anyone have a list of all the ground locations?
I'm debating removing the chip as well just to rule that out.
Any other ideas?
#11
I've seen the communications fault before. It just lit the idiot light. It didn't kill the engine or anything else.
When you say the dash lights come on, you mean like when you first turn the key to run and wait for the glow plugs? Did the glow plug light come on too? You may want to check out your ignition switch.
When you say the dash lights come on, you mean like when you first turn the key to run and wait for the glow plugs? Did the glow plug light come on too? You may want to check out your ignition switch.
#12
I've seen the communications fault before. It just lit the idiot light. It didn't kill the engine or anything else.
When you say the dash lights come on, you mean like when you first turn the key to run and wait for the glow plugs? Did the glow plug light come on too? You may want to check out your ignition switch.
When you say the dash lights come on, you mean like when you first turn the key to run and wait for the glow plugs? Did the glow plug light come on too? You may want to check out your ignition switch.
What would I be looking for in the ignition?
#13
I uploaded a wiring diagram. Click on my user name in this post, then view public profile. On the right side there is an album with the diagram in it.
Turn the ignition to position 2 (run). There should be 12v coming from the central junction box and 12v out (please ignore the coil on plug on the diagram, I could only find the one for the gas truck). Find the 12v output and monitor it while you shake and rattle the column. See if you can cause it to drop out. Work the key without rolling the switch also.
Check the 12v in the same way, and look for rub marks on the wires and burn marks on the connectors. A burnt pin in a connector will cause strange things to happen.
Turn the ignition to position 2 (run). There should be 12v coming from the central junction box and 12v out (please ignore the coil on plug on the diagram, I could only find the one for the gas truck). Find the 12v output and monitor it while you shake and rattle the column. See if you can cause it to drop out. Work the key without rolling the switch also.
Check the 12v in the same way, and look for rub marks on the wires and burn marks on the connectors. A burnt pin in a connector will cause strange things to happen.
#15