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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

3g alternator confusion

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Old May 13, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #16  
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I had an uncle who worked on the Manhattan Project, had a letter signed by a president (Roosevelt?) thanking him for his contribution.

He was at Argonne National Laboratories.

My dad had his grandfather's 1924 Model T Ford in our garage when I was a kid. The battery box was empty, but the coils (4 of them, one per cylinder) had wooden cases.

 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #17  
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/topic/
A diode test of the alternator charge cable to ground would do a lot to put my mind to ease in this situation.
 
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Old May 13, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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Thank you Fordboy for cleaning up your posts. It is so much easier to help when we can understand everything that is going on.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis

He was at Argonne National Laboratories.
I used to live 10 miles from Argonne. Took a tour of Fermi as a kid a long time ago.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bruno2
Thank you Fordboy for cleaning up your posts. It is so much easier to help when we can understand everything that is going on.
No problem bud. Well I connected my battery back in the truck this it starts up but the when you turn the lights on, the lights dim still and the horn doesn't wanna sound when the lights are on/off. Also when the lights are on and I sound the horn my emission light (kinda like a check engine light) comes on then turns off
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #21  
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fb300 - You need to get a multimeter and do some diagnostic work.

Here are some tests that Grubbworm has in his album:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-need-it.html
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 12:30 PM
  #22  
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Thanks ctubutis, I them yesterday when you told grubbworm had a couple diagnostic test I wish I had a conductance tester or a load tester. I'm gonna take my battery to work see how much charge it has. Also about half hour ago I drove my truck and after I drove it turn it off tried to re start and nothing. Sound like the battery doesn't want to charge. But I will keep you posted.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 01:19 PM
  #23  
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You can get a multimeter at WalMart or Harbor Freight for $5-$20. I don't think you can do any sort of real load-testing with them, but you need a meter if you're going to do any sort of real electrical diagnostic work.

7 Function Multimeter
Digital Multimeter - Save on this AC/DC Digital Multimeter

A test light is useful, too.

Amazon.com: Equus 3420 Smart Test Light/Circuit Tester: Automotive
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 09:50 PM
  #24  
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I think you have a bad ground somewhere Fordboy.
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 11:53 PM
  #25  
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That's what one of the tech's at the Toyota dealership i work at told me. I told him that you know i drove it for about a half hour came back home parked it in the garage then turned it off and attempted to turn it on and it turned over so slow. He said it might be a bad starter i told i just replaced it, then he mentioned check your grounds then and to clean the terminals and the posts of the battery. We also did a Conductance test on the battery and it passed. I wish we had a load tester. Sears does load testing right? Tomorrow I'm gonna head over there to buy a DMM and i have the battery out of my truck might as well have them test it there. Never know might have different results.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 01:33 AM
  #26  
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Yeah Sears can load test it. I think the ground problem may be with something more dedicated than the main grounds. However, you need to be sure your battery is grounded to the motor, the motor to the frame and the frame to the body. I put a dedicated ground on the starter as well. Check all of those connections. It wouldnt hurt to pull them all loose and clean the surfaces to be sure you have good continuity. The battery terminals need to be clean as well. If you have hose aftermarket bolt on terminals check them really well also. Those are notorious for problems.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #27  
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Okay thanks Bruno I'll be sure to check all my connections. I'll keep you guys posted.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 05:11 PM
  #28  
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I took some 4 gauge wire and made new grounds for my Bronco whenever I did the 3g upgrade. I soldered some big copper lugs onto the wire and grounded them like explained above as well as put a direct ground from the starter case to the block.

Another thing you might check is the starter relay. Gary found a loose connection on mine that was giving me a little trouble. Just about everything that uses power draws it from the switched side of that thing. So wiggle all the wires that go to it and be sure the nuts are tight on the stud.
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #29  
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You know what I think I'm missing a ground cable that was from the wiper motor to the block of the motor. When you say the case you mean where the starter bolts up to?
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #30  
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Yes, just where the starter bolts up put a lug on the back side of the bolt and then take it to one of the bolts on the block. The wiper motor should ground to the body. Probably where the Speed Control(cruise control GM) servo bolts to the fender.
 
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