2005 3 valve 6.8 Plug Change - Cracked Insulators
New User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Thanks, tater.
I've been dreading my plug change also since I am nearing 80,000 miles.
Did the Kroil dissapate and you put more in after the first 1/8 turn? Or did it stay there till the second 1/8 turn? Glad you had good luck w/ the change!!
Thanks again, J
I've been dreading my plug change also since I am nearing 80,000 miles.
Did the Kroil dissapate and you put more in after the first 1/8 turn? Or did it stay there till the second 1/8 turn? Glad you had good luck w/ the change!!
Thanks again, J
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 974
Likes: 11
Thanks
FordCamping: I've poked around the V10 forum for many years now, and this is the first time I've read thru this thread. And while I have a 2v V10 and, thus, likely will never have to worry about this specific problem...I must give you a HUGE thanks for taking the time to post your pics, technique, experience, etc. These are the types of threads that are invaluable to other peeps on here!
Really well done. Kudos, man.
Really well done. Kudos, man.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
I first filled up to the top of the hex on the plug and let it set (before even breaking them loose). I doubt that any of the Kroil wicked down but I just felt better doing it that way. After an hour or so I broke them loose, no more than a 1/8 turn. I let them set again for a couple hours and then turned them another 1/8 turn, filled back up to top of hex (only a little had worked it's way down) and let sit overnight. Next morning there was still Kroil sitting on the plug but I could see that some of it had worked it's way down the plug. When removing the plugs the carbon left on them was completely broken down and the plugs actually wiped clean with a swipe of a rag. I had one plug that was a little stubborn but once removed I could see that it had a lot of carbon build up. All the plug bottoms were wet where the Kroil had wicked down. I than used my shop vac with small hose attached and vacuumed the cylinders. Afterwards I spun the motor with all plugs removed before installing the new plugs. I choose a couple days when I knew I didn't need the truck and could take my time. Hope that wasn't too long winded, good luck!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I too am not running a 3V motor however this thread is highly interesting, very very well done and just one great tutorial for these motors. Kudos and thanks for taking time to post this highly beneficial thread! 
I will add most modular motors plugs should be changed at 50K miles which might reduce the seized-in-place plugs. While some disagree that nickel-based anti-seize is necessary or even advisable when properly used it too will help reduce problematic plugs during removal.
Reps sent to the OP for this thread-----highly deserved!
I will add most modular motors plugs should be changed at 50K miles which might reduce the seized-in-place plugs. While some disagree that nickel-based anti-seize is necessary or even advisable when properly used it too will help reduce problematic plugs during removal.
Reps sent to the OP for this thread-----highly deserved!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
Fwiw, I did my plugs last year @ 120k miles.
I used an impact on the front 8, (small 18V makita) and I used a regular ratchet on the rear 2
with the impact, I just let the engine cool down enough to touch it, and whirled 7 of 8 out with no problems. (one broke.)
For the back 2 I did the whole ford TSB routine, and still broke both. (using the ratchet.)
I'm sold on the impact method personally. 1 broken in 8 isn't bad.
The lisle tool works great, Napa sells a clone set that works great too.
YMMV
interesting vid.
Ford 5.4 Liter 3 Valve Spark Plug Removal - YouTube
I used an impact on the front 8, (small 18V makita) and I used a regular ratchet on the rear 2
with the impact, I just let the engine cool down enough to touch it, and whirled 7 of 8 out with no problems. (one broke.)
For the back 2 I did the whole ford TSB routine, and still broke both. (using the ratchet.)
I'm sold on the impact method personally. 1 broken in 8 isn't bad.
The lisle tool works great, Napa sells a clone set that works great too.
YMMV
interesting vid.
Ford 5.4 Liter 3 Valve Spark Plug Removal - YouTube
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Its always recommended nothing but Motorcraft or Autolite equals in the modular motors.
The new 3 valve heads might change that however.
The new 3 valve heads might change that however.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 158
Likes: 5
I have come to grips with, don't be expecting 100K miles from these things. I was at 75K when I did mine and the next time, it may end up being 50K miles. Slowly over time you do not feel the degraded smoothness until you put new plugs ins and WOW This thing really does run smooth.
For sure make sure you use the nickel anti seize on the shield.
Good luck
John
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 579
Likes: 0
From: Chiefland, Fl
I did mine about 20k ago and didn't have any problems other than no one in town stocked them. I got the motor up to operating temp, took the coils off, blew out the holes and took them out. I did put anti-sieze on the new plugs before they went back in.
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