6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Help, no start after oil cooler change

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  #16  
Old 05-13-2012, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by quackrz
Ok so I disconnected negative terminal on passenger side battery and disconnected alternator.

disconnected drivers side battery and removed completely.

Disconnected main engine wiring harness and all associated sensors and removed from engine

Disconnected and removed fuel injector harness

removed ficm

You said interior gets power from drivers side battery. You might be onto something here. did I forget to attach a terminal to the + side? Right now I just have the battery cable attached going to the passenger side batt.
As in you disconnected the middle plug on the PCM (which by the way is between the driver side battery and the inner fender)? If so, you need to connect main positive feed to the driver side battery before the ignition key will do anything.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:20 PM
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Mike I think you Nailed it and he is out Driving it around now you fixed his truck LOL
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
As in you disconnected the middle plug on the PCM (which by the way is between the driver side battery and the inner fender)? If so, you need to connect main positive feed to the driver side battery before the ignition key will do anything.

Yes I did. I am not sure what you mean by connecting the main positive feed to drivers side batt
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Mike I think you Nailed it and he is out Driving it around now you fixed his truck LOL
I wish its dark here now LOL. Although with any luck I will be driving tomorrow when I get home from work
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by quackrz
Yes I did. I am not sure what you mean by connecting the main positive feed to drivers side batt
I mean the one main cable that connects to the driver side battery positive terminal. There is another heavy gauge red cable that is secured to it, via a 10mm nut. THAT is the one that supplies all the power to the interior of the truck (ignition switch included).
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
I mean the one main cable that connects to the driver side battery positive terminal. There is another heavy gauge red cable that is secured to it, via a 10mm nut. THAT is the one that supplies all the power to the interior of the truck (ignition switch included).
You sir are the man!! I'm an idiot...LOL that terminal was buried under the batt tray so I didn't see it

Now if I can just get it to start

reading my insight
ICP voltage .2
ICP pressure 0
Injector pulse width 0
FICM voltage 49
Fuel pressure 60
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:26 PM
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You now need to have BOTH batteries fully charged up to get it started. I would connect a booster to each battery while cranking the engine over for initial startup, because it's going to take LOTS and I do mean LOTS of engine cranking for ICP to build up.
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 05:50 PM
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dont fell bad, mike only knows this becasue like me he has done it before too.
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:07 PM
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So exactly how long of cranking does it take to build pressure?

Since I did an oil change while I did this, it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register anything. I then started building ICP pressure, it got up to 700 before i had to recharge the batteries. Then it got up to 1300 and batteries got too weak so they are charging overnight now. I know 500 is the minimum, but shouldn't it start at around 1000 psi?
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:22 PM
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If you made it to 1300 ICP it should have started


At Minimum 500 ICP

and 100RPM

Charge them Batterys for a Few and Keep Going Over Wire Connections
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:34 PM
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I agree with BLADE35. If ICP psi increased to 1300 psi, the truck should've started as soon as it surpassed 500. What about the rest of the PIDs (FICM_M, FICM_SYNC, SYNC etc.)? Do the injectors pre-cycle when you turn the ignition key to the RUN position? Do you have fuel pressure?
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:49 PM
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I only have an edge insight so not reading the sync

FICM never drops below 48
Fuel pressure at 60
ICP voltage goes up to 2 or so

I could hear the injectors buzz so I am assuming they are cycling

When cranking shouldn't the pulse width register? right now it is reading 0
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by quackrz
I only have an edge insight so not reading the sync

FICM never drops below 48
Fuel pressure at 60
ICP voltage goes up to 2 or so

I could hear the injectors buzz so I am assuming they are cycling

When cranking shouldn't the pulse width register? right now it is reading 0
Well then you need to be able to read FICM_SYNC and SYNC. I will guess that either one or both fail to switch from NO to YES, while cranking the engine over, if FUEL_PW remains at zero during engine cranking. Your injectors are obviously not being commanded to fire. Did you disconnect the CMP sensor by any chance, and forget to re-connect it?
 
  #29  
Old 05-15-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by m-chan68
Well then you need to be able to read FICM_SYNC and SYNC. I will guess that either one or both fail to switch from NO to YES, while cranking the engine over, if FUEL_PW remains at zero during engine cranking. Your injectors are obviously not being commanded to fire. Did you disconnect the CMP sensor by any chance, and forget to re-connect it?
I did disconnect the CMP sensor but connected it back. Does the scan gauge II read the sync values or would I need an AE?

I do need to give a little more background since this wasn't just a simple oil cooler change and such.

History
2 weeks ago I was getting on highway and lost power and started blowing smoke. Smoke was blueish/grey/white. I limped it back home(was only a mile away) never was able to get past 30mph and that was only on downhill. Most of the time it was 15mph. All the while blowing smoke. The smoke smelled like a mix of oil and diesel. When I got home I shut it off and it wouldn't start again.

I pulled the codes and the only code I got was the egr valve position(I just cleaned it the week prior)

I already was getting ready to replace the oil cooler, STC, Dplugs, egr cooler and had just got the parts.

So the next morning I cleaned the egr put new o-rings and tried to start again to no avail. Pulled the codes and had a injector #1 contribution/Balance code.

So time to start pulling stuff off and replace the oil cooler and stuff. In the meantime, thinking I had a bad injector, I ordered one from tousley.

After pulling everything off, replacing injector(o-rings where worn) and putting everything back together it still won't start.

couple of notes,

When I pulled the IPR the screen did not come out with it. I had to take tweezers to get it out. Screen was clean though. Put a new screen and o-rings on.

Since I changed the oil it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register on the dash. I did fill from the oil filter in order to put oil in the sump for the HPOP.

While it took a lot of cranking.
I have an Edge Insight so these are the readings
ICP pressure got up to around 1300 once
Fuel pressure at 60psi
FICM output never dropped below 48
Engine load was around 98%
injector pulse width 0
thanks for the help
 
  #30  
Old 05-15-2012, 07:20 PM
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any codes yet???


I think You need to keep with MIKE Suggestion and Check CMP/CKP Sync and FICM Sync since you dont have a Fuel Pulse Width Yet

your SGII should get those 2 Sync PIDs have you programed them YET?????into the SGII
 


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