Help, no start after oil cooler change
#16
Ok so I disconnected negative terminal on passenger side battery and disconnected alternator.
disconnected drivers side battery and removed completely.
Disconnected main engine wiring harness and all associated sensors and removed from engine
Disconnected and removed fuel injector harness
removed ficm
You said interior gets power from drivers side battery. You might be onto something here. did I forget to attach a terminal to the + side? Right now I just have the battery cable attached going to the passenger side batt.
disconnected drivers side battery and removed completely.
Disconnected main engine wiring harness and all associated sensors and removed from engine
Disconnected and removed fuel injector harness
removed ficm
You said interior gets power from drivers side battery. You might be onto something here. did I forget to attach a terminal to the + side? Right now I just have the battery cable attached going to the passenger side batt.
#18
Yes I did. I am not sure what you mean by connecting the main positive feed to drivers side batt
#19
#20
I mean the one main cable that connects to the driver side battery positive terminal. There is another heavy gauge red cable that is secured to it, via a 10mm nut. THAT is the one that supplies all the power to the interior of the truck (ignition switch included).
#21
Now if I can just get it to start
reading my insight
ICP voltage .2
ICP pressure 0
Injector pulse width 0
FICM voltage 49
Fuel pressure 60
#24
So exactly how long of cranking does it take to build pressure?
Since I did an oil change while I did this, it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register anything. I then started building ICP pressure, it got up to 700 before i had to recharge the batteries. Then it got up to 1300 and batteries got too weak so they are charging overnight now. I know 500 is the minimum, but shouldn't it start at around 1000 psi?
Since I did an oil change while I did this, it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register anything. I then started building ICP pressure, it got up to 700 before i had to recharge the batteries. Then it got up to 1300 and batteries got too weak so they are charging overnight now. I know 500 is the minimum, but shouldn't it start at around 1000 psi?
#27
#28
Well then you need to be able to read FICM_SYNC and SYNC. I will guess that either one or both fail to switch from NO to YES, while cranking the engine over, if FUEL_PW remains at zero during engine cranking. Your injectors are obviously not being commanded to fire. Did you disconnect the CMP sensor by any chance, and forget to re-connect it?
#29
Well then you need to be able to read FICM_SYNC and SYNC. I will guess that either one or both fail to switch from NO to YES, while cranking the engine over, if FUEL_PW remains at zero during engine cranking. Your injectors are obviously not being commanded to fire. Did you disconnect the CMP sensor by any chance, and forget to re-connect it?
I do need to give a little more background since this wasn't just a simple oil cooler change and such.
History
2 weeks ago I was getting on highway and lost power and started blowing smoke. Smoke was blueish/grey/white. I limped it back home(was only a mile away) never was able to get past 30mph and that was only on downhill. Most of the time it was 15mph. All the while blowing smoke. The smoke smelled like a mix of oil and diesel. When I got home I shut it off and it wouldn't start again.
I pulled the codes and the only code I got was the egr valve position(I just cleaned it the week prior)
I already was getting ready to replace the oil cooler, STC, Dplugs, egr cooler and had just got the parts.
So the next morning I cleaned the egr put new o-rings and tried to start again to no avail. Pulled the codes and had a injector #1 contribution/Balance code.
So time to start pulling stuff off and replace the oil cooler and stuff. In the meantime, thinking I had a bad injector, I ordered one from tousley.
After pulling everything off, replacing injector(o-rings where worn) and putting everything back together it still won't start.
couple of notes,
When I pulled the IPR the screen did not come out with it. I had to take tweezers to get it out. Screen was clean though. Put a new screen and o-rings on.
Since I changed the oil it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register on the dash. I did fill from the oil filter in order to put oil in the sump for the HPOP.
While it took a lot of cranking.
I have an Edge Insight so these are the readings
ICP pressure got up to around 1300 once
Fuel pressure at 60psi
FICM output never dropped below 48
Engine load was around 98%
injector pulse width 0
I pulled the codes and the only code I got was the egr valve position(I just cleaned it the week prior)
I already was getting ready to replace the oil cooler, STC, Dplugs, egr cooler and had just got the parts.
So the next morning I cleaned the egr put new o-rings and tried to start again to no avail. Pulled the codes and had a injector #1 contribution/Balance code.
So time to start pulling stuff off and replace the oil cooler and stuff. In the meantime, thinking I had a bad injector, I ordered one from tousley.
After pulling everything off, replacing injector(o-rings where worn) and putting everything back together it still won't start.
couple of notes,
When I pulled the IPR the screen did not come out with it. I had to take tweezers to get it out. Screen was clean though. Put a new screen and o-rings on.
Since I changed the oil it took a long time for the oil pressure gauge to register on the dash. I did fill from the oil filter in order to put oil in the sump for the HPOP.
While it took a lot of cranking.
I have an Edge Insight so these are the readings
ICP pressure got up to around 1300 once
Fuel pressure at 60psi
FICM output never dropped below 48
Engine load was around 98%
injector pulse width 0
#30