Rear Window Replacement Problem
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New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Southwest Virginia
Rear Window Replacement Problem
The rear window of my new-acquired 1966 F100 is broken and I wanted to replace it. I ordered parts #49-9761 and 49-9266 from LMC. After following a few of the tutorials on this project, I was still unsuccessful ... I couldn't make it fit. I measured the window I removed and the replacement is about 7/8" taller and about 5/8" wider. I called LMC and I was told it was the right part, but alas and alack, it still doesn't fit.
Any ideas?
- Greg
Any ideas?
- Greg
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 9
From: Thornton, Colorado
LMC says the same window and seals fit 1957-1972, this is what everyone else says.
B7C-8142084-A 1957-60 Trucks not wrap around Window
C1TB-8142084-A 1961-66 Trucks not wrap around window.
C7TZ-8142084-B 1967-72 All trucks.
Return the stuff to LMC, and go to Dennis Carpenter, or Carolina Classics.
I learned a similar lesson on my anti-rattle kits. I am going to have to replace all the seals again with Dennis Carpenter stuff.
B7C-8142084-A 1957-60 Trucks not wrap around Window
C1TB-8142084-A 1961-66 Trucks not wrap around window.
C7TZ-8142084-B 1967-72 All trucks.
Return the stuff to LMC, and go to Dennis Carpenter, or Carolina Classics.
I learned a similar lesson on my anti-rattle kits. I am going to have to replace all the seals again with Dennis Carpenter stuff.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 14
From: Tucson, Arizona
Are you looking for a factory correct piece of glass of just a replacement window? If it doesn't have to be factory, it's just a flat piece of glass - any local glass shop should be able to cut one to fit. Call and ask.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,315
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
All Automotive glass is required to be tempered. The local shops can only cut non tempered glass, then send it out to have it tempered, while this is possible it can get pricey... if you try to cut or drill Tempered glass it shatters instantly..
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Any good local glass company should be able to get you the correct glass.
Dennis Carpenter rubber, that Carolina Classics sells, is the best. If Number Dummy stops in with a Ford part number it is DC rubber.
Now you can pull glass from another resting truck, or order new, your call, but fitment shouldn't be a problem.
John
Dennis Carpenter rubber, that Carolina Classics sells, is the best. If Number Dummy stops in with a Ford part number it is DC rubber.
Now you can pull glass from another resting truck, or order new, your call, but fitment shouldn't be a problem.
John
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New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Southwest Virginia
Thanks everybody for the advice!
I decided to go with Carolina Classics because I couldn't find the window glass on Dennis Carpenter. Durham is fairly close, so maybe I'll get the parts before the next rain. Oops! 100% chance of rain this evening and tomorrow and 50% chance for Tuesday. Thanks LMC!
While I was at it, I ordered a gas neck grommet and a gas neck-to-tank hose. The neck had no grommet and I discovered yesterday that it looks like the hose broke and the PO "patched" it with something like window putty. I was wrestling with the dad-blame locking gas cap and the neck came right on out. Seems like significant safety issue. I "patched" it with a short length of radiator hose for the short term and got a plain-jane gas cap that I won't have to fight with.
The PO had no door keys and the ignition switch was a "universal" job left dangling under the dash. I bought a lock set on eBay and I installed the door locks. Now I can lock the doors ... a lot of good that does with no rear window. Hopefully, the ignition switch will be installed this week. I'm waiting on the bezel.
Now I just have to figure out why the temp and fuel gauge don't work! Hopefully just a fuse!
- Greg
I decided to go with Carolina Classics because I couldn't find the window glass on Dennis Carpenter. Durham is fairly close, so maybe I'll get the parts before the next rain. Oops! 100% chance of rain this evening and tomorrow and 50% chance for Tuesday. Thanks LMC!
While I was at it, I ordered a gas neck grommet and a gas neck-to-tank hose. The neck had no grommet and I discovered yesterday that it looks like the hose broke and the PO "patched" it with something like window putty. I was wrestling with the dad-blame locking gas cap and the neck came right on out. Seems like significant safety issue. I "patched" it with a short length of radiator hose for the short term and got a plain-jane gas cap that I won't have to fight with.
The PO had no door keys and the ignition switch was a "universal" job left dangling under the dash. I bought a lock set on eBay and I installed the door locks. Now I can lock the doors ... a lot of good that does with no rear window. Hopefully, the ignition switch will be installed this week. I'm waiting on the bezel.
Now I just have to figure out why the temp and fuel gauge don't work! Hopefully just a fuse!
- Greg
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Greg, Rick is pretty easy to find, don't know which direction you are coming from. I got my last bezel from him. Make him your #1 stop for the Ford parts.
John
John
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New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Southwest Virginia
Already have. I'm gonna call them soon ... no one seems to make stepside long beds!
- Greg
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
It would be better to call or email him. He doesn't have a big retail showroom, most of his business is online & shows.
Get over to 501 it will bring you to Durham, about 165 miles or so.
John
Get over to 501 it will bring you to Durham, about 165 miles or so.
John
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New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Southwest Virginia
- Greg
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
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From: Glendale Arizona
Now I just have to figure out why the temp and fuel gauge don't work! Hopefully just a fuse!
No fuses.
Look to the instrument voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster. Make sure it is fully connected. It has a vibrating arm inside that pulses the voltage. These are available at Ricks. Looks like a old automotive circuit breaker.
Garbz
No fuses.
Look to the instrument voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster. Make sure it is fully connected. It has a vibrating arm inside that pulses the voltage. These are available at Ricks. Looks like a old automotive circuit breaker.
Garbz
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New User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Southwest Virginia
- Greg
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Yes the stabilizer is for the gauges. Each has to be grounded to the cluster.
Do you have the plastic sweep unit or the standard round?
Check your grounds. It is the brown wires. Dash lights are the Lt blue with red stripe.
Do you have the plastic sweep unit or the standard round?
Check your grounds. It is the brown wires. Dash lights are the Lt blue with red stripe.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 22
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From: Southwest Virginia
I'm not sure what you mean by plastic sweep unit or standard round. I'll look into the wiring issue this weekend ... if I don't take a road trip to Pigeon Forge!