The rear window of my new-acquired 1966 F100 is broken and I wanted to replace it. I ordered parts #49-9761 and 49-9266 from LMC. After following a few of the tutorials on this project, I was still unsuccessful ... I couldn't make it fit. I measured the window I removed and the replacement is about 7/8" taller and about 5/8" wider. I called LMC and I was told it was the right part, but alas and alack, it still doesn't fit.

Any ideas?

- Greg

 

LMC says the same window and seals fit 1957-1972, this is what everyone else says.

B7C-8142084-A 1957-60 Trucks not wrap around Window

C1TB-8142084-A 1961-66 Trucks not wrap around window.

C7TZ-8142084-B 1967-72 All trucks.

Return the stuff to LMC, and go to Dennis Carpenter, or Carolina Classics.

I learned a similar lesson on my anti-rattle kits. I am going to have to replace all the seals again with Dennis Carpenter stuff.

 

Thanks! You've verified what I'd feared!

 

Are you looking for a factory correct piece of glass of just a replacement window? If it doesn't have to be factory, it's just a flat piece of glass - any local glass shop should be able to cut one to fit. Call and ask.

 

All Automotive glass is required to be tempered. The local shops can only cut non tempered glass, then send it out to have it tempered, while this is possible it can get pricey... if you try to cut or drill Tempered glass it shatters instantly..

 

Any good local glass company should be able to get you the correct glass.

Dennis Carpenter rubber, that Carolina Classics sells, is the best. If Number Dummy stops in with a Ford part number it is DC rubber.


Now you can pull glass from another resting truck, or order new, your call, but fitment shouldn't be a problem.



John

 

Thanks everybody for the advice!

I decided to go with Carolina Classics because I couldn't find the window glass on Dennis Carpenter. Durham is fairly close, so maybe I'll get the parts before the next rain. Oops! 100% chance of rain this evening and tomorrow and 50% chance for Tuesday. Thanks LMC!

While I was at it, I ordered a gas neck grommet and a gas neck-to-tank hose. The neck had no grommet and I discovered yesterday that it looks like the hose broke and the PO "patched" it with something like window putty. I was wrestling with the dad-blame locking gas cap and the neck came right on out. Seems like significant safety issue. I "patched" it with a short length of radiator hose for the short term and got a plain-jane gas cap that I won't have to fight with.

The PO had no door keys and the ignition switch was a "universal" job left dangling under the dash. I bought a lock set on eBay and I installed the door locks. Now I can lock the doors ... a lot of good that does with no rear window. Hopefully, the ignition switch will be installed this week. I'm waiting on the bezel.

Now I just have to figure out why the temp and fuel gauge don't work! Hopefully just a fuse!

- Greg

 

Greg, Rick is pretty easy to find, don't know which direction you are coming from. I got my last bezel from him. Make him your #1 stop for the Ford parts.




John

 

I'm out in the middle of nowhere, not too far from Lexington, VA. I want to visit the store sometime ... after payday, of course!

Already have. I'm gonna call them soon ... no one seems to make stepside long beds!

- Greg

 

It would be better to call or email him. He doesn't have a big retail showroom, most of his business is online & shows.

Get over to 501 it will bring you to Durham, about 165 miles or so.




John

 

OK, will do. It'll be some time before my truck is safe enough and reliable enough for a road trip anyway. I'm hoping to get up the money ... and the courage ... to try cutting and welding in a few weeks.

- Greg

 

Now I just have to figure out why the temp and fuel gauge don't work! Hopefully just a fuse!

No fuses.

Look to the instrument voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster. Make sure it is fully connected. It has a vibrating arm inside that pulses the voltage. These are available at Ricks. Looks like a old automotive circuit breaker.

Garbz

 

Thanks for the input! Would that explain why there's no instrument lights working? I couldn't find it at Carolina Classics. I found something called an instrument voltage stabilizer at LMC ... same thing? That would be a major coup if a $30 part would solve all those problems!

- Greg

 

Yes the stabilizer is for the gauges. Each has to be grounded to the cluster.

Do you have the plastic sweep unit or the standard round?

Check your grounds. It is the brown wires. Dash lights are the Lt blue with red stripe.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by plastic sweep unit or standard round. I'll look into the wiring issue this weekend ... if I don't take a road trip to Pigeon Forge!