I spoke with customer service at LMC. The guy seemed convinced that the rear window they sent matched what a 1966 F100 needs. Is there any chance Ford used two different size rear windows? I guess I'll have to wait until the window from Carolina Classics arrives.

 

Man I hate to ask you but must, is there any reason that you are ordering glass, paying shipping and not using a local glass company?




John

 

I didn't think the local glass company did anything automotive. I've dealt with them a few times in the past and they don't seem to like to deal with anything that isn't square, but I'll check to make sure. Out here in the sticks, we don't have all the services you big city types have ... why, we just got satellite TV last year and we still don't have GPS!

- Greg

 

Sorry Greg, I was referring to a local Auto glass shop. I have no idea where you are, there is nothing in your info bar.



John

 

Sorry, I filled out my location when I first registered, but you helped me realize there's another place to record your location and mine was blank. I'm about 200 miles northwest of you.

No Auto Glass place around here. I could probably take it to Roanoke (hate going there, though).
- Greg

 

Got an old phone book around? Look for auto glass in the yellow pages.




John

 

OK, I received the rear glass from Carolina Classics yesterday ... it's the same size as the one from LMC! So ... Maybe the cracked rear window was a replacement and actually smaller than stock. Should the glass be larger than the opening? Should it overlap with the metal lip on the cab? If so, that's my problem and if that's the case, I'm not fully envisioning how this all goes together!

- Greg

 

Parts clucks (they are actually only order takers) that work for LMC usually have no clue. LMC's catalogs are rife with errors and omissions.

C1TB-8142006-A .. Back Glass-Clear / NAGS (National Auto Glass Society) number: 1052T / Obsolete from Ford, available from autoglass shops which use NAGS numbers.

C1TB-8142084-A .. Back Glass Weatherstrip / Reproduced

Applications: 1961/66 F100/1100 except 1961/63 F100/250 Custom Cab Uni's w/wrap around back glass / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000 / 1967/69 F800/1000.

The back glass and its weatherstrip have to be installed from the outside of the cab and it can be a real b!tch! It takes two peeps to install these parts as a unit, not individually.

It's been decades since I had this done on my (now former) '65 F100 by a local autoglass shop. As I recall, a looong piece of heavy string is required to snake the weatherstrip and glass into the opening.

One peep has to hold these parts on the outside of the cab, while another has to be inside the cab working the string. As I said, it's a real b!tch!
No such thing as a fuse, it's the following and bolts to the backside of the instrument cluster.

B9MZ-10804-C .. ICVR = Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (Motorcraft GR-508) / Obsolete / Available from autoparts stores.

Applications: 1961/66 F100/1100 / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000 / 1966/77 Bronco / 1967/69 F800/1000 // 1958/66 Thunderbird / 1959/64 Galaxie / 1960/65 Falcon/Comet / 1962/65 Fairlane / 1965/66 Mustang.

When this little charmer begins to fail, the fuel and temp gauge needles do "the hula" .. swinging wildly back and forth on their own. When it fails (so what else is new?) these gauges no longer work.

1965/66 F100/250 2WD Custom Cabs came with a plastic sweep speedo instrument cluster, while others have a steel cluster w/a round speedo. The ICVR is the same for all.

NOTE: Take the original ICVR to the parts store to match it up. There are other types of ICVR's used 1957/91 and most autoparts store parts clucks haven't a single clue.

 

Thanks for all the great info. Is the glass larger than the opening? I figured it fit within the opening and we were trying to install it from the inside out. When I removed the old glass I was able to pull it into the cab. I'm beginning to think the old window was not stock. It has a very nasty purple tint film that is very difficult to remove to see if there are any markings on it. If its an outside in, that looks to be quite a job.

I ordered the ICVR from LMC on Thursday. Hopefully, it'll arrive Tuesday-ish.

I had a new shifter installed this week. It came with a ghetto-engineered three on the floor. Now it has an improper but legitimate three on the floor shifter. I took the truck out today to get a load of lumber and the rod under the dash that runs through the floor and connects the clutch to the clutch pedal broke. Oh well, time for the tow truck ... again! I'm out-of-commission ... again.

 

The glass is obviously not larger than the opening, cuz if it was, it wouldn't fit.

The thing is, you have to install the weatherstrip onto the glass FIRST .. then install both as a unit. There is no way to install the weatherstrip into the opening first, then get the glass to fit into the weatherstrip.

As I said, it takes two peeps to do this, one on the outside of the cab, one on the inside using the string method.

In 1982, I attempted to replace the hardened up leaky weatherstrip on my '65 by myself. Cut the old weatherstrip with an Xacto knife, removed the glass. I knew the string method then (have sorta fogotten it today), but...

I gave up because it's a real b!tch! So, I drove the truck over to Bruin Auto Glass in WLA, they replaced the whole tamale in less than 10 minutes, cuz they had the know how, the string and the required two peeps!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The clutch rod that routes from the clutch pedal bellcrank to the equalizer bar has 90 degree ends. On each one of these ends is a nylon bushing (COAZ-7526-B).

Overtime, the nylon bushings crack/disintigrate, causing the 90 degree ends to begin to crack. Sooner or later, usually sooner, one or both of these ends snaps off.

Not pleasant and NO FoMoCo Dealer or obsolete parts vendor has this rod, and it's not reproduced. Check with "Squire" Don (camperspecial65), he may have a good user.

C5TZ-7521-B .. Rod-Clutch Pedal to Equalizer Bar / 18 7/8" long, 3/8" diameter rod bent at (90 degree) right angles each end / Obsolete / Applications: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD.

Fellow members: If you have a M/T you have a rod like this. Check the ends to see if the bushings are OK, replace it not. Otherwise, sooner or later, you'll be in the same boat as the OP, up **** creek without a paddle!

COAZ-7526-B (replaced COAZ-7526-A) .. Nylon Bushing / Obsolete

Carpenter has 693 available NOS (800-476-9653) and it's also listed in his 1957/66 & 1967/79 repro truck parts catalogs, cuz it was used on 1961/77 F100/750's and some 1978's. And 1960/80 misc Passenger Cars.

 

That's what I was thinking. I figured I must have not understood how it fit together and that part of the weatherstripping must isolate the glass from the metal lip of opening, since both the glass from LMC and CC were both too large. So, what the heck is going on with my cab? Why does it need some special-sized rear window? Maybe I have a super-rare, limited edition extra small-rear window cab that NO ONE else has even heard of! Maybe Ford had one extra 1966 GT40 rear window and decided to make a cab that would use it, so as not to be wasteful (I'm guessing the GT40 probably had a larger rear window) . OK, probably not, but what is up with this thing? Are both LMC and CC wrong on the rear window???


Is this really going to be a difficult fix? I'm thinking/hoping it can be effectively fixed or "jury-rigged". Or did you just mean I needed a tow?

- Greg

 

I would advise looking closely at all the parts to activate the clutch. The part the Rod you mentioned hooks to on to top is likely to be ovaled out. The bushing that Number Dummy mentioned is a good idea, but it will wear out fast if the hole is oval. At the other end of that shaft you will likely find the same oval issue. On the other side of that bracket, you will note the pin is grooved unless it has been replaced. I took all my stuff to a local fab shop and had them cut the pin off, weld the holes shut, and then replace the pin with a new pin after punching out the holes. They also made me a new hardened shaft to replace the rod going through the floor. All of it including powder coating cost me $100.00. Well worth the price. I don't anticipate problems for several years.

I'm not saying you have to go all the way as I did, just note the bushings will not last if the holes are oval.

 

You don't have a super rare anything.

You don't seem to get it. There were only TWO back glasses, but the type used on 1961/63 F100/250 Uni Custom Cabs wraps around the back of the cab, so it and its weatherstrip are much larger.

All other 1961/66 F100/1100's and 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1000's, 1967/69 F800/1000's use the SAME flat back glass, cuz all use the same basic cab.

The reason you are having a problem (and you aren't the first or only one that has had same) is: You have to install the weatherstrip onto the glass FIRST then install both as a unit into the back of the cab from the outside.

It takes two peeps to do this, one on the outside holding the glass while the other is inside the cab working the string.

There is no other way, N-O-N-E = NONE to install this glass. Somewhere, located in your area, there should be an autoglass shop. They can order the glass and install it.

Call Dennis Carpenter (800-476-9653) in Concord NC or Carolina Classics (800-598-4211) in Durham NC and ask for a reference. Or look online at the Yellow Pages.

This method for installing back glasses has been the same since day one thru today, so it applies to all trucks, not just to your truck.

 

Actually, I sorta, kinda think I do get it. The two windows I've received are both LARGER than the one I removed and both are bigger than the opening. It seems I've been sent two wrong rear windows.

This is EXACTLY what I did! It was a PITA to get the weatherstripping on, but I did. Then, I wrapped some rope (3/8" IIRC) around it, like mentioned on a post on this site. Everything went well, starting at the bottom, until I reached midway up the glass. It looked like there was no way in Hell it was gonna fit without using a very large hammer. I, with a helper, tried from the inside out and outside in. Then it became obvious that it was just too big. I stuck it (the LMC glass) against the old cracked glass and it was nearly 1" taller and 1/2" wider than the old glass. Today, I checked out the CC glass ... it looks to be nearly identical to the LMC glass. My good tape measure is at the shop locked in my truck, but these are what I got with a crappy tape measure:

Old glass 49" W, 13" H
New glass 49-1/2" W, 13-7/8" H
(since it's not rectangular, both were measured at the greatest point)

I see this being a difficult task with the old glass size but impossible with the new.


Possibilities:

1. The "original" windows is NOT the "stock" window and I completely suck at installation. Certainly a distinct possibility.

2. Both LMC and CC supplied the wrong glass. Also a reasonable possibility.

3. My cab is very unique! HIGHLY unlikely, and if it is, it's mostly likely because someone has monkeyed with it. It doesn't look like it's been monkeyed with.

Any ideas? Comments? Anyone have any measurements for the stock glass?

 

Here is a tutorial on the back glass installation in a pickup. Unfortunately it is on a Chevrolet, but it was all I could find.

How to install back window glass on a pickup - YouTube