I've read so many threads i don't know what to get now , if i go to a junkyard that has an F250 what all do i need to improve the rear springs on my 2000 2wd ?

i hit carpart.com and it gives me this
<label for="0">Aux Spring </label>
<input name="userInterchange" value=">==}B}}518}441938" id="1" type="radio"><label for="1">Main Spring, auxiliary leaf, spring code, P & Y </label>
<input name="userInterchange" value=">==}A}}518}441939" id="2" type="radio"><label for="2">Main Spring, auxiliary leaf, spring code, S, A & B </label>
<input name="userInterchange" value="C>@}}}518}441940" id="3" type="radio"><label for="3">Main Spring, w/o auxiliary leaf </label>

Do I want the aux leaf, no aux leaf, I'm going to go take some aspirin for this leafspring induced headache! : )

 

You would want to get the b-code spring with or without the top overload.

If you got the one with the top overload you would be removing it anyways. The benefit to having the B-codes with the top overload is if you are going to mod the b's with your current G-code springs you can use the center pin that comes with it. If you mod the b-codes and you have the ones without the top overload then you will need to get a longer center pin.

Tim M

 

if i go to this junkyard and the parts are already off the truck how do i make sure i am getting b code ? a local junkyard has this:

2004
Leaf Spring Rear
Ford Truck F250 Super Duty
LH & RH LEAF SPRIN 5LEAF.

And is $125 a side a decent price ?

 

There is no real way to tell if they are b-codes by looking at the numbers on springs themselves. You could get lucky and find someone that has posted theirs spring number and hope it matched but the only way to know for sure is if you can get the code from the original truck.



That was the dilema I was having and couldn't verify I was actually getting a b-code so I ended up purchasing them new from the dealer.

Tim M

 

I think new r less then $200 a side. So it's ur call. I would go new.

 

FWIW, I did the procomp add-a-leaf to rear of my Ex and I love the results. With V's up front and add-a-leaf in the rear I got about 2.5" of lift. The wandering is gone and the steering feels more responsive. The kit for the rear was only $100 too, so it saved me some money that I can spend on other stuff for the truck.

 

pro comp sounds interesting I will check that out ,, one thing I havent read yet - is the front change required or can I only beef up the rear ?

 

which add a leaf kit did you use ? 4wheelparts.com tells me Add-A-Leaf - 13126 , but a thread on this forum says Add-A-Leaf - 13128

 

13126 is short style , 13128 is long style, but i have no idea which one i should get

 

I used the 13128 ($100.99 shipped from amazon). You will need to do something in the front. I went with V's but if I had to do it again, i'd go with X codes.

 

longs will give you a stiffer spring rate for towing and etc, the shorts are mostly just for that extra life. Anecdotal comments suggest the longs will give a bit more lift. Also depends on how worn on your stockers are.

 

Thanks , I'm towing a 24"ft enclosed trailer 1800 miles from CA to TX so I'm going to need to beef up the 2000 Limited I just bought . Think I will go with the longs, an F250/350 or Hellwig rear sway, and keep an eye out for front springs. The sway depends on what I find at local junkyards this week. I'm a bit disappointed the truck isn't ready to tow heavy from the factory.

 

Where in California are you located?
Tim M

 

X codes are 4x4 springs. Not a whole lot of discussion on the forum about replacing front coils. This thread tdlpps changed them with F350 coils, but couldn't attribute gain to the new springs. You may also want to check out this thread post #25. Stouttrout claims 2.25" lift with F250 diesel coils.

I don't think you will necessarily have to do anything to the front. From what I understand, the unmodified B's will improve ride, etc. but not change the rear height. If you go with the modified B's then you will gain a 2"+/- in the rear, so then you will need to do something with the front. Be ready to deal with the alignment issues if you change anything in the front. There is limited castor/camber adjustment in the twin i-beam front suspension. After about 2"-3" or so you would need to change the brackets for the radius arms as comes with the Fabtech and Procomp kits to correct the geometry.

 

An option for that is to get these spacers.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8492932

Stewart