Hey all. I will soon be starting on a full restore of my 70' F-250. What pertains to this forum is the 360 that resides in her now.
Here's my plan of thought. On a scale of 1 - 5, I want to use the #3 & 4 ranking parts. I am not going for 400 plus HP; but I surely don't want stock. I have built many a motor but always the cheapest and quickest to get it back on the road. This time I want this done right and to last. Money isn't going to have that much of a factor.
I am a plumber by trade. Over sizing is a good habit to get into. My belief is that if you build a motor that breathes well and is internally strong. It will run that way for a long time. I will be using a Holley 500cfm 2barrel. A T-18 tranny. A 3.77 rear.
Would like some recommendations for the following,
1)intake manifold (even a 4bl. will do, I'll add an adptr.)
2)pistons and rings
3)cam
4)lifters
5)390 rods
6)head work
7)bearings
8)pushrods and guides

Will be going with pertronix.
I have already saved a few threads for this future build. So I know about the ARP bolts. And torqueing to specs. I don't expect all answers here and know. I need to get started on a parts/price list to start budgeting finances.

Any info appreciated.

Robert P.

 

Here's what I would do:

1. Intake: Edelbrock performer RPM, with Holley 600 Vacuum Secondary. 4-bbl will deliver better mileage than 2-bbl if driven right.

2. TRW (speed pro) L2291F pistons, with speed pro rings

3. Crane 343904 cam

4. matching Crane lifters

5. 390 short rods with 390 crank

6. Mild port and polish, check the CC on the heads to figure compression, polish combustion chamber to reduce ping

7. Clevite 77 bearings

8. Matching Crane pushrods

Good luck!

 

First off, I'd say check with DSC motorsports and summit racing for parts. Jegs sometimes has decent stuff too, but I've found jeg's catalog tends to be missing a lot of things. I think either summit or jegs will special order for you though. But then, the local parts store probably will too. It's good to shop around.

I'd make sure you take the block to a machinist to get it cleaned up/bored/etc. Also, I'd take the rotating assembly in as well and get it balanced.

Some opinions to follow:

1) intake. If you don't want to spend a lot on it, I'd say either hunt up a 4-bbl truck intake (cast iron), or try to hunt up a local guy with a used edelbrock performer or performer rpm. New they're about $230ish whereas the old iron you should be able to find for $50 or less. With that 2bbl carb though, consider hunting for a 600cfm carter at the junkyards or in the papers as well. Or a holley if you like those better. Someone else may have a better recommendation for an intake for a 2bbl 500cfm holley.

2)Pistons:
Since you're not really building it up much I'd say go with the sterling 381P's. They're cast, and not expensive. They should be strong enough for what you want. Some guys like to use the hypereutectic pistons. My machinist said to stay away from 'em.
Rings:
depends. Do you want to shell out the extra for moly-coated rings, and run the extra thousand miles to break them in all the way? A set costs around $80. Standard rings will be a lot cheaper and will work fine.

3)Cam:
How much work do you want to do on the heads and valvetrain? The crane 343901 is a good cam to consider. Much better than stock, but you can get by with stock valvetrain. Just get the matched springs. There's a lotta cam choices out there, it really depends on what you want. For a truck you want one that makes a lot of torque at low rpm, that's where the work gets done and the stumps get pulled.

4)lifters:
Stay hydraulic unless you want to purchase adjustable rocker arms (somewhere around 150-200). Get new ones of course. Any brand should be fine. Keep in mind that if you switch to mechanical you have to block off passages. And everything I've heard about rollers, it sounds like nobody's made an inexpensive setup that works well. The erson set of roller rockers runs about 600.

5)rods:
Find a set of 390 rods. Have them sized when you're getting your machine work done. They'll work great. Don't get aftermarket rods, there's no reason to.

6)Headwork:
How good are you with a die grinder? There are good articles around on the net about polishing and porting heads. I'd want to make sure the valve seats are hard seats (not something you can install easily on your own if they're not), and if you can, getting the CJ-sized valves will help flow.

7)bearings:
Clevites work well. I don't think there's really much available in the way of super high performance bearings. There might be some out with a moly coat, but I don't remember seeing any.

8) see the headwork, cam, and lifter entries.


John

 

Just a couple of suggestions for ya. I just finished mine, Friday was the first drive.
Get a 390 crank to go with your 360 block and 390 rods, its cheap power. I got mine for $60
One of the biggest things people mess up on is not Reconditioning the rods. You HAVE TO. Its not an option.
I am running Silvolite 1130 pistons, they measure at 8.8:1 CR with 70cc heads. $225 with Moly rings.
I am usine a crane cams energizer #134042 266 duration .516 lift I used it because it was cheap and I was trying to be cheap. Its a small cam but works well.
Whatever cam you use, get the recomended Valve springs. Don't be cheap get new retainers and locks. My springs retainers and locks only cost $110
For a mild engine, don't do a full port job on the heads, just a bowl cleanup will do nice things for it.
I am using an old Edelbrock streetmaster intake, its an aluminum single plane. I replaced my stock 4 barrel intake with it just for the weight savings and heat soak properties.
I used Clevite bearings, the main/rod set cost me $95 and $20 for the cam bearings. I see there is someone on ebay selling them for $75/set
For pushrods, on any engine if you use guide plates, you need hardened pushrods. On FE engines, the rockers are shaft mounted, so guideplates are not needed.
Unless you are using a large cam with high rate valve springs, you don't need anything more than stock. Get new ones, I used Summit racings house brand.
I only have about $1200 into mine and that includes new headers($125) the intake($125) New exhaust and muffs($100 parts only).

Mine runs very good, just seat of the pants HP feels like about 350, or 375HP. Plenty for my beat up 4x4
Brian

 

Thanks brian John and Rusty,

I had not even thought of the 390 crank avenue. Makes sense being that I will have it to that point anyway. Muey excellente. (I am still working on my Spanish.)
Is a cast iron 4bl intake comparable to an aftermarket one, or is it just to the purchaser.
I thought of getting them ported and polished to the extent that they will take. Isn't it a good idea to get the most flow? What about stainless valves? I will be getting the CJ conv. ( What does CJ stand for?)
Aren't cast pistons the bottom of the barrel way to go, due to the weight factor of other pistons.
I would only consider the 600cfrm 4bl if highway mileage would improve. The difference my 500cfm made verses the 2150 that was on her prior; only makes me believe that the 500 will do just fine on top a rebuild.

So far I have decided on roller rockers, hydraulis cam,cj valves, 390 crank and rods.

Robert P.

 

CJ stands for Cobra Jet.
Yes cast pistons are bottom of the barrel, but they are good for 400+ horsepower as long as you don't get the compression ratio too high. I would stick to 9:1 or lower with iron heads. You can still run low grade gas and make good power.
Brian

 

Thanks Brian.
(CJ) It's those simple things that always sneak past you.
And welcome to FTE. I think you'll fit in well here.

Robert P.