front brakes stuck

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May 11, 2012 | 06:13 AM

Gordon-0

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front brakes stuck

Hi guys,
Doing some work on the wifes car (2003 mustang) and i am in a bit of a bind here.
it needed new brakes and since the old ones only lasted 20,000 miles i was told i needed new calipers because they were dragging.

i replaced the pads with Hawk HPS, Calipers with rebuilt PBR, and bought Bendix Rotors (cheaper than having them turned ect.)

now the brakes are stuck on and i cannot even turn the wheel at all.

i got new slide pins with the rotors, and put them in.
with the wheel off, i can move the caliper back and forth, so it seems like it isnt the slide pins... ie, they aren't frozen in place.

when i was bleeding the system, i first tried using the Phoenix Systems DIY kit and tried to "reverse bleed" where you push fluid in backwards through the system and it comes out the top.
however after no fluid would go in, i gave up and bled by foot.

i am wondering if there is a check valve or something in the caliper... who knows.
the fluid went out just fine through the bleeder screw but wont release the brakes.

May 11, 2012 | 10:28 AM

a12play12

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From: Nevada,

If you open the bleeder, do the calipers release?? If so, master cylinder/hydraulic problem. If not start loosening bolts that you have worked on until rotor frees up and see where your mechanical interference is.

May 11, 2012 | 11:17 AM

Gordon-0

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Quote:

Originally Posted by a12play12

If you open the bleeder, do the calipers release??

that was my first thought too... no

Quote:

If not start loosening bolts that you have worked on until rotor frees up and see where your mechanical interference is.

i replaced the brake hose, which has a flared fitting on one end. i haven't loosened it up yet, but i did release the brake hose-caliper side, and it was still stuck.

i am thinking that my caliper may be defective. as far as i know i released all the pressure, and it was still on. how can i free or check the caliper?
is it possible that the new pads are just too thick?

May 11, 2012 | 11:28 AM

a12play12

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From: Nevada,

Did you have to beat the caliper onto the rotor??

If opening the bleeder doesn't free the rotor, 90% chance it is not a hydraulic issue.

Start removing parts in reverse of installation, and see what frees up the rotor. (one bolt at a time).

If you can remove the pads without ALOT of force they are probably ok.

May 11, 2012 | 11:58 AM

droldsmorland

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Nov 2011

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From: Land of Taxes

Replace the flex hoses. You most likely have a collapsed hose. Does it release after sitting over night? If so then definitely a collapsed hose. Do both sides and bleed the entire hydraulic system with fresh fluid. The inner structure of the hose can delaminate from outer layers causing an obstruction in one or both fluid flow directions acting as a one way valve. The fluid should be completely flushed every few years or 30K miles (this applies to DOT3 not sure about the synthetic, though a flush every now & then can’t hurt that either) Take a look at the pump style power bleeders Jegs or Summit offer.

May 14, 2012 | 11:24 AM

Gordon-0

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the hoses are new.

i am thinking that its the calipers either not releasing all the way, or the pads are too thick (not the first time i have heard of hawk pads being too thick)