When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just received my new Bilstein steering stabilizer in the mail today. Does anyone that has installed one of these know how much to torque the nut down? I know on the front shocks it was 34 ft/lbs, but that had rubber bushings. I want to avoid stripping the new nut that came with it.
Also (and this may seem like a stupid question), what are the actual install instructions for this stabilizer? It didn't come with any and there aren't any online that I can find. It looks very straightforward, but I am not sure where the washer that was supplied with the stabilizer goes. My existing one does not have a washer anywhere on the assembly.
Regarding the nut/washer, if I recall correctly you will re-use the factory bolt that attached the stabilizer to the truck frame. On end with the tapered shaft, you use that washer under the nut on that tapered end.
If Bilstein didn't supply torques, you probably could go online and check the torques for the rancho unit, it's the same design and uses the same hardware so I would think it would be close.
torque it to monkey tight. the factory installation was torqued over 50/lbs. if you get it as tight as you can, you will be good. assuming a 1/2 drive socket wrench is used, not a 300/lb impact driver. also, use a pitman arm puller to remove the tapered bolt on the existing stabilizer. otherwise you will be wasting your time. if you use the pitman arm puller, you wont need any penetrating spray, no hammer, no heat. just a couple turns of the nut and the thing will pop right out. right tool for the job, trust me. did mine last weekend
I just received my new Bilstein steering stabilizer in the mail today. Does anyone that has installed one of these know how much to torque the nut down? I know on the front shocks it was 34 ft/lbs, but that had rubber bushings. I want to avoid stripping the new nut that came with it.
Just installed mine last night and instructions say 40Ft lbs torque.
Just installed mine last night and instructions say 40Ft lbs torque.
So 40 ft/lbs it is...
I guess it would have helped if mine included instructions. For my shocks, all I got was the German version of the instructions. Luckily I had this forum to "translate".
I guess it would have helped if mine included instructions. For my shocks, all I got was the German version of the instructions. Luckily I had this forum to "translate".
Install the stock bolt first on pass side,Then pivot bracket from shock towards pass side of truck and use a pry bar to compress and install tapered mount into drag link.Then pivot bracket 180 deg and tighten down.Sounds strange, but with bracket pivoted the tapered stud is coloser the the mounting hole and is easier to get started into the mounting hole.Let me know and i can fax you the instructions.
torque it to monkey tight. the factory installation was torqued over 50/lbs. if you get it as tight as you can, you will be good. assuming a 1/2 drive socket wrench is used, not a 300/lb impact driver. also, use a pitman arm puller to remove the tapered bolt on the existing stabilizer. otherwise you will be wasting your time. if you use the pitman arm puller, you wont need any penetrating spray, no hammer, no heat. just a couple turns of the nut and the thing will pop right out. right tool for the job, trust me. did mine last weekend
"Monkey tight"...........I love it! Thanks for making me laugh this morning!
Fellas - I'd read in some other postings some left pull after installing the Bilstein single stabilizer (OE replacement) ... did any of you experience that?
I'm right at 100 psi to stop the LH pull.I have a nitrogen tank so i have been experimenting.I like the way it stabilizes at 140psi but pulls to bad to the left so i have to compromise.I just installed the Tuff Country track bar drop bracket and Ready Lift drop brackets for the Radius Arms.What a world of difference.I think some of the wobble is due to the Caster being too negative on these trucks.