Crazy electrical problem
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
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The test at the parts store showed bad diodes and regulator. Called the dealer to make sure what alternator it was and according to the VIN its the 140A single alt. Should I just go with a new one from the dealer?
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
My last alternator from the Dealer went 13 months and Under 5K
DC Power has it beat already by 10K More
I do push a stereo
Id get a Chainstore alt with a Life warrenty before another Rebuilt OEM one
The BIG KICKER here for me was this 6.0L has alot of electronic controled stuff Like the FICM a Bad alternator can Damage that kinda stuff it wasnt worth the risk so DC Power there New units no core to send in and QUALITY PARTS in them alittle spendy Havent seen one DC P unit Fail on here yet either everyone haS been Happey with them
DC Power has it beat already by 10K More
I do push a stereo
Id get a Chainstore alt with a Life warrenty before another Rebuilt OEM one
The BIG KICKER here for me was this 6.0L has alot of electronic controled stuff Like the FICM a Bad alternator can Damage that kinda stuff it wasnt worth the risk so DC Power there New units no core to send in and QUALITY PARTS in them alittle spendy Havent seen one DC P unit Fail on here yet either everyone haS been Happey with them
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
DCPower seems to be the way to go if budget allows. If not, I would look into getting a local starter/alternator shop to repair the old one. Check the yellow pages, you might be surprised to find one near you. I think you'll get a better part for less $$ than a replacement from one of the parts stores.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; May 11, 2012 at 10:31 AM. Reason: clarify
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Found a local shop right down the road that will rebuild it for $140. Gunna check them out. If I went with a 185Amp from DC would there need to be wiring upgrades done to handle the increased amperage?
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Yes but you can make your own there is a fusable link in the DC Power wire but you can just make all that you can find better wire for less money
and heres a few more pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...e+upgrade.html
The DC Power is around better unit smaller pulley to for increased output at Idel when you realley need it
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Well truck is running good now. Had the alternator rebuilt at a local shop for $150. Replaced the regulator, rectifier, stator, bearings, and brushes. Practically a brand new one. Said whoever did the last rebuild on it just resoldered the diodes and put it back together. Everything else was original. So all in all, I got 2 new Motorcraft batteries for free since they were within the first 3 years of use, and a practically new alternator for $150. Can't beat that! Thanks for the help guys.
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2007, 60, clusterradio, diesel, electrical, engine, f250, ford, gauge, lockswindows, losing, power, problems
