[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Sep-02 AT 12:56 PM (EST)]The Truck: 1992 Ford F-150 XLT, 4WD, 302, E4OD, 140,000 mi.

Sorry...this is long!

My truck has been vibrating wildly between 55-65 mph, so I decided that a logical, fairly cheap first crack at the problem would be to replace the U-Joints. I vibrated over to my local Advantage Auto Parts store to pick up some new ones. The dude at the counter had some confusion as to which part I actually needed, as there were two options...but more on that later.

Has anyone with the Haynes manual noticed that the page the index refers you too for U-joint removal/install (8-30) is blank? I checked another copy in the store, same thing...

Anyway, I decided to start with the rear drive shaft. I got the shaft off, and removed the U-Joints. They didn't look that bad, all of the needle bearings were intact and lube was plentiful.

My first question: What do you look for to determine if the U-Joints are bad? Could there be damage causing the vibration that I couldn't see or failed to notice?

Next question: I changed the rear joint, and one yoke moves easily, and the other yoke is a little tighter. It doesn't grind or anything, and I am fairly certain all of the needle bearings are seated properly, but I think I might have pushed the caps in too far...is that possible? I think I am going to remove and reinstall it.

I removed the front joint, and then noticed that the replacement I was given didn't fit. Two of the caps were larger, instead of all being the same size, like on the rear replacement. I looked at the old u-joints, and all caps were the same size all the way around.

There was another difference. The old U-joint from the back had a groove around the cap - kind of like the groove on a piston where the ring sits. The old joint from the front had no groove. Does anyone know why, or if there is a difference in how they fit in the yoke?

Last question (I promise!): I haven't looked at the front U-joints yet, but since my rear shaft u-joints looked okay, I am wondering if I am helping my problem. Does the front shaft turn when I am in 2WD? I thought the tourque converter engaged the front shaft only when 4WD was activated....

I need my baby for a tailgate this weekend! Ahhhh!!
(go bears!)

Thanks,

Bryan


Bryan Donaldson
1992 F-150 XLT 4x4 302

 

Wow! I'll try to go thru some of this:

>The Truck: 1992 Ford F-150 XLT, 4WD, 302, E4OD, 140,000 mi.

Thank you! So many people don't provide the most basic info when asking a question.

>Has anyone with the Haynes manual noticed that the page the
>index refers you too for U-joint removal/install (8-30) is
>blank? I checked another copy in the store, same thing...

Never used a manual to replace u-joints.........ok, sorry!

>My first question: What do you look for to determine if the
>U-Joints are bad?

Lack of grease, rust, missing or cracked needles, or any play you can feel or see.

>Could there be damage causing the
>vibration that I couldn't see or failed to notice?

Does your rear d/s have a CV? I suspect not or this post would have been much longer LOL

>Next question: I changed the rear joint, and one yoke moves
>easily, and the other yoke is a little tighter. It doesn't
>grind or anything, and I am fairly certain all of the needle
>bearings are seated properly, but I think I might have
>pushed the caps in too far...is that possible? I think I am
>going to remove and reinstall it.

I think it'll work itself in. Ever replaced a link in a bike chain? You've gotta put it in w/the tool and then grab it w/your thumbs and "tweak" it to get it to seat. Things like this that are press fit, don't always press together perfectly the first time, but usually self-correct if the problem is minor (ie the caps will probably slide out until they hit the external retaining clips, thus relieving the pressure).

>I removed the front joint, and then noticed that the
>replacement I was given didn't fit. Two of the caps were
>larger, instead of all being the same size, like on the rear
>replacement.

Some Fords used a x-over joint, the difference in cap size was fairly slight. I think that was the Spicer 5-1204X? You probably need a 1203 (Warning: part #'s off the top of my head!).

>There was another difference. The old U-joint from the back
>had a groove around the cap - kind of like the groove on a
>piston where the ring sits. The old joint from the front had
>no groove. Does anyone know why, or if there is a difference
>in how they fit in the yoke?

It's hard to say w/out seeing what you have, but some manufacturers - mostly the cheaper ones IME - fit some caps so they can take both types of retaining clips. So long as all other dimensions are the same, I wouldn't worry about it (except you may have low-quality joints there).

> Does the front shaft turn when I am in 2WD?

Not if your hubs are unlocked.

>I thought the tourque converter
>engaged the front shaft only when 4WD was activated....

Torque converter has nothing to do w/it. Transfer Case.

HTH some.

 

That front U joint is kind of a pain. The front part that connects to the diff uses a different size than the one that connects to the T-case!! I wonder though, since he has an automatic i bet that also means auto hubs...arn't those locked in pretty much all the time? I have noticed that on the vehicles with auto hubs the axle joints turn which would mean the same for the driveshaft.

 

Yep, that joint you got is what's called a crossover joint. It allows the use of a driveshaft originally made for a specific axle yoke mate to a different axle yoke. Kind of like an adapter for a chevy tranny to a jeep transfer case. Since they were originally made, many manufacturers now make updates to say a driveshaft, and just use a crossover joint.

When it comes to holding the joint in the yoke, there are 2 different types of retainers. There is an inner retainer and a outer retainer. I am guessing your driveshaft has outer retainers. They are clips that are set into grooves inside the yoke at the end of the u-joint cap. The inner retainers put a c-clip in the groove of the cap and sit against the inside of the yoke to keep the cap from "falling through the hole". The joint you have with 2 caps of inner retainers and 2 caps of outer retainers is common with crossover joints.

As for the front driveshaft turning in 2WD, your front driveshaft should not turn when in 2WD, even with automatic hubs. The front driveshaft may turn a little if there is a slight amount of friction between the hubs and axle-shafts, but it won't move fast enough to notice a vibration if one exists.

 

Did this vibration start all of a sudden? Did someone have the driveshaft out prior to this vibration?

Sometimes, when a driveshaft is removed, it is put back 180 degrees from where it was. Many shafts are balanced, and if not put back as original, it will vibrate. Try rotating it 180 degrees and bolt it up.

Anytime a driveshaft is removed, mark the rear yoke and shaft so they are put back in original position.

-------------------------
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'94 E-150 Conversion Van 4.9 / C-6 -- '89 Mustang LX 5.0

 

Talk to Napa and get Spicer joints next time, too

Wish I could get one of those Spicer books Napa has.....

 

Perhaps a balancing weight came off the drive shaft. I suppose the shaft would then need to be re-balanced?

 

Suggest changing your tires, Very common to have a tire tread partial separation cause a speed related vibration. At the very minimim, swap tires from front to rear.
For a driveline related vibration, I suggest you chuck the Haynes and either get a factory service manual or get access to a Mitchells. Neither stinges out on accurate repair info.
I will attempt to email pages copied from the factory service manual page on driveline vibration.

 

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

I did in fact finally get the right part at NAPA...

This job is kind of a pain without a vice. I ruined one of my new U-Joints when I tightened it in and one of the needle bearings fell off the side and broke in two.

My result? Well, the vibration is still there, and I am fairly certain it's a tire or alignment problem. Oh well. It's was probably a good thing to replace those U-Joints anyway, considering the mileage on my truck. Plus, while rolling around under my beast, I noticed that the tail pipe had rusted completely off of the muffler. Yaaaayy!!!! Another project!

Bryan

 

>Plus, while
>rolling around under my beast, I noticed that the tail pipe
>had rusted completely off of the muffler. Yaaaayy!!!!
>Another project!

Keep it simple, just get a short pipe to exit out the side in front of the tire. If the muffler is shot, it is a good opportunity to get a flowmaster or other performance muffler.

INLINE SIX POWER! '95 F150 XL
300 Cubic Inches of Low RPM Truck Torque! And twin-I-beams too!
"Drive a stick young man! There'll be time for automatics when you're old and unable."

 

The Best Never Rest!

Hey, I have had that exact problem two weeks ago. I too viberated to the local auto parts store and picked up a couple of U-Joints. I have a 95' F-150 4X4, shortbed. They too gave me the wrong front U-Joint. The rear one is called, (as they said -mr. head of FTE- just so you know I am not cussing), called a ******* U-Joint. It is because two caps are regular and two caps are small. I needed one that was all the same size, as I imagine was your problem too!I took it back and they had the darndest time finding the right one. (45 minutes worth) And when they did it was in the wrong box with no retainer clips. Then they gave me the wrong clips which they pulled out of some other box!!! And this is Auto Zone, a well known store! I too still have a little vibration at 55, I don't know why though. It isn't bad though, I may be paranoid and it is normal, I don't know. If you find out more, please tell me!!!

 

>called a ******* U-Joint.

Exactly! A ******* part is a non-standard part, usually off-brand. The second dictionary definition is "something of irregular, inferior, or dubious origin." There also is a ******* file, which is a file with a certain pattern of cutting teeth and shape. And I think Mr-FTE is with us all the way on proper use of the English language like that. I have said before on this site that to put a Ch**y engine in a Ford is to *******ize ("to debase, to corrupt") the Ford.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Sep-02 AT 05:34 PM (EST)]>And this is Auto Zone, a well known store!

Autozone is your problem. For drivetrain parts go to Napa or maybe a good Parts Plus

 

The Best Never Rest!

thanks!

I agree W/ the chevy in a ford, *******ization!