Nice 300 I6 and engine bay

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Old 05-06-2012, 11:32 PM
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Nice 300 I6 and engine bay

I have an '82 F150 with the 300 I6 and really wanna clean up the engine and bay. I've had (mostly) V8's most of my life, but this is my first 4.9. I was planning on building up a mild 289 for the truck, but after viewing several articles and pics on this engine I decided to keep it in the truck especially since it was rebuilt approx. 33k miles ago.

As I continue to look here and @ other sources for this engine, I thought I'd first ask a few questions concerning removing the AC pump, smog pump, brackets and hoses.
Removing the AC doesn't seem to be a problem after I get a non-AC radiator, but if I remove the smog pump, hose and the carb spacer it's connected to, will the truck still run ok if I bolt the carb directly to the intake, or do I need to replace it with another spacer? I'm told I may need a spacer for linkage,....any aftermarket sources for these?

I was also recently told I could swap out the factory 1bbl carb/intake for 4bbl carb/intake, but should I plan on bumping up the ignition for this swap, or would the truck run ok as is? How well will the truck run if I just remove the A.I.R. spacer and pump for now?

P.S., I'm really not interested in performance upgrades at this time other than the 4bbl swap. My main concern is a clean, sharp looking I6 and the bay it sits in. Any advice or ideas are welcome.

Thanks,
Sid
 
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:38 PM
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First off, make sure it's a duraspark ignition and not the EEC-III system which used a crank and cam sensor and no vacuum advance. Then make sure you're state doesn't require an emissions test on this vehicle. You should already know, but make sure it's not going to be required any time soon. Then buy the clifford manifold, there are others, but the cliffords are the most common. Now would also be a GREAT time to upgrade the '82 log exhaust manifold to the EFI split manifold. Remove the cat(s) if you remove the A.I.R. pump as it will clog up in short order after removal of the A.I.R. system. Don't worry about changing the radiator.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by pfogle
First off, make sure it's a duraspark ignition and not the EEC-III system which used a crank and cam sensor and no vacuum advance. Then make sure you're state doesn't require an emissions test on this vehicle. You should already know, but make sure it's not going to be required any time soon. Then buy the clifford manifold, there are others, but the cliffords are the most common. Now would also be a GREAT time to upgrade the '82 log exhaust manifold to the EFI split manifold. Remove the cat(s) if you remove the A.I.R. pump as it will clog up in short order after removal of the A.I.R. system. Don't worry about changing the radiator.
Just researched the ignition, and it's the Duraspark II.

No emissions test on vehicles 20 years or older here (North Carolina), but I'll check if there's any word on future inspections. Inspection does include lifting the truck to insure the fact. cats are in place. However, when I bought the truck, the P.O. informed me they were gutted.

Does the AIR pump generate any heat to the OE spacer, or does heat to the intake only come from the exhaust manifold?

I was looking at Cliffords and Offenhauser intakes. What carb would you suggest?

Would the split manifold work better than a header?

Sorry for all the questions, and thanks again
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:57 AM
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The header will give better performance by the EFI manifolds are more user friendly. With headers you'll have to make heat shields for the starter and intake. If you use the EFI manifolds it eliminates those issues.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pfogle
The header will give better performance by the EFI manifolds are more user friendly. With headers you'll have to make heat shields for the starter and intake. If you use the EFI manifolds it eliminates those issues.
I've never heard of anyone making a h.shield for the intake. I've run headers for over two years w/o shield for starter of intake. I did, however, mod the oem shield for the alternator. With either exhaust, if you use an Offenhauser intake, you'll need a water exchange plate for the bottom. Radiator coolant is run through the plate to help warm the manifold and keep fuel from puddling.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:27 PM
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So to keep things simple, I should be looking at a Cliffords intake and EFI split exhaust manifold to eliminate the need for shield fabrication?

I'm also reading I'll need to stay around 500cfm carb, but with a stock engine, which 4bbl have you guys had the most luck with? Holly or Eldebrock?
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:03 AM
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The edelbrock is the easier to set up, and often times just works fine right out of the box. The holley can be a PITA if you're not familiar with them.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by pfogle
The edelbrock is the easier to set up, and often times just works fine right out of the box. The holley can be a PITA if you're not familiar with them.
Thanks man,...this gives me a great starting point.
 
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