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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

help with clutch shaft and bolt

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Old May 5, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #1  
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help with clutch shaft and bolt

I am still having problems knocking out the clutch pivot bolt on my 55 f100. I have tried heat, penetrating oil, and trying to hammer it out. So now I have more questions then answers.
1 There is a roll pin on the end of the clutch shaft on the transmission side. If I take that off. Will it help if I cut the shaft?

2 If I cut the shaft how do I remove the brake pedal from the shaft?

3Is there a way to remove the brake and clutch pedal threw the floor?

4 Does anyone make or sell clutch and brake pedals if I have to cut them?

5 It seems to me that if I can take off the transmission side roll pin and take it apart. Cutting the shaft seems to be my only options.

any help or suggestion would be of great help.

Jerry
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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I removed mine with the cab off, so it was easier to get to everything.
There is a locking pin on the clutch. If you can get to that you should be able to press the clutch pedal off the shaft.

Here is an exploded diagram of the clutch and brake parts.


I have quite a few pictures of the dis-assembly of my brake and clutch pedals on photobucket at:
Brake and Clutch Pedals pictures by harrier1351 - Photobucket

Do you have any pictures of what you are looking at? I'm no expert, but it sure helps me to have pictures to see what's up. I would hate to have you cut the shaft, it should come off for you.
Since I had the cab off, I just left the shaft attached to the clutch pedal.
 
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Old May 5, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Hi Harrier
Thanks for the response to my problem. I dont have any pictures right now. I am old and technology challenged. Judging by your pictures you took off the roll pin on the transmission side first. Now I have a few questions you may be able to answer.

1 On the clutch and brake pedal does the part you step on come off?

2 If you take off the transmission side first can you slide off the assembly?

3 The roll pin on my truck is also stuck like the clutch pin bolt. Do you think I can drill it out? And then remove everything?

Jerry
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 12:06 AM
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Hey Jerry,

Drilling out the roller pin (side closest to the transmission) may be the best option and then you can free up the shaft. Once the pin is removed then the do-dad on the end will come out and the shaft can slide out. Keep in mind that pin should be hardened so it may be a pain. I used a steel punch and a 2lb. sledge. If you still have the cab on it can be a pain. I have always removed them with the cab off. DO NOT CUT THE SHAFT!!!! Also, don't cut the brake pedal (like the PO did on this frame). The bolt on the outside of the shaft nearest the clutch is a pain and I have never been able to remove that bolt on the trucks I have worked on. Work on the inner pin and get it out and then you can replace it with a roller pin of equal diameter (I get mine at the local Ace Hardware). Why again are you needing to remove the assembly? If you are upgrading the brakes I don't think you need to remove the assembly (could be wrong, sometimes the memory gives out) Good luck.

 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 01:20 AM
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Hi Teardropty
I will try to drill out roller pin on transmission side. The reason i am replacing it is because they said if you are using stock three speed with power brake booster you need to replace it. Did your brake rod bolt up to your stock set up. And do you know if the brake and clutch pedal can be taken off? Maybe that would make it easier.

Thanks

Jerry
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 07:49 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by jerryst
Hi Teardropty
I will try to drill out roller pin on transmission side. The reason i am replacing it is because they said if you are using stock three speed with power brake booster you need to replace it. Did your brake rod bolt up to your stock set up. And do you know if the brake and clutch pedal can be taken off? Maybe that would make it easier.

Thanks

Jerry
Jerry,
Not saying I know all the kits but I have never had to replace/remove the shaft. Most kits do come with an eliminator shaft but that is if you are eliminating the clutch pedal (which I don't think you are doing unless you are changing to an automatic). The kit I use from MBM brakes doesn't require removal of the shaft at all to add the brakes (unless you want to for other purposes). You must install the brackets that come with the kit which can be difficult with the cab on. The rod has a clevis that connects to the stock brake pedal and operates the brakes when applied. Make sure you have the brake kit you are going to be using in hand. Lay it out and make it work for you. Once you have the kit in hand then you can visualize it better. I wouldn't remove the roller pin until you have the new kit in hand. What kit are you looking at? Do you have a brand name?
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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Is the tranny stil installed? if not, you should be able to drive the shaft out towards the inside of the chassis.

I just replaced the shaft with the one from Midfifty that adjusts for brake pedal only.

BRAKE SHAFT, AUTOMATIC TRANS . . . .0520-A . . . . . .$30.00 ea.
Use this shaft with all brake kits to eliminate clutch pedal & linkage assembly.

got a big head on the tranny side to hold the brake arm on.
HAVE to drive it in from the tranny side. (so the other one should come out the same way)

Sam
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jerryst
Hi Harrier
Thanks for the response to my problem. I dont have any pictures right now. I am old and technology challenged. Judging by your pictures you took off the roll pin on the transmission side first. Now I have a few questions you may be able to answer.

1 On the clutch and brake pedal does the part you step on come off?

2 If you take off the transmission side first can you slide off the assembly?

3 The roll pin on my truck is also stuck like the clutch pin bolt. Do you think I can drill it out? And then remove everything?

Jerry
Since I had my cab off, it was pretty easy to disassemble.
I think most of these were answered for you, but I didn't see a response to the first question.

1 The pedals pads just screw off. The pedal is threaded, just grab a hold and turn.

2 Once I got the transmission side taken apart, and the roll pin out it all slid out.

3. I used a punch the size of the hole and a big hammer. Worked slick.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:13 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by sdetweil
Is the tranny stil installed? if not, you should be able to drive the shaft out towards the inside of the chassis.

I just replaced the shaft with the one from Midfifty that adjusts for brake pedal only.

BRAKE SHAFT, AUTOMATIC TRANS . . . .0520-A . . . . . .$30.00 ea.
Use this shaft with all brake kits to eliminate clutch pedal & linkage assembly.

got a big head on the tranny side to hold the brake arm on.
HAVE to drive it in from the tranny side. (so the other one should come out the same way)

Sam
If he is trying to use the manual transmission then the brake shaft for the automatic transmission wouldn't work. The shaft required for the manual transmission has a bolt on the outer end (clutch side) and a roll pin on the inner end (transmission side).

 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by teardropty
If he is trying to use the manual transmission then the brake shaft for the automatic transmission wouldn't work. The shaft required for the manual transmission has a bolt on the outer end (clutch side) and a roll pin on the inner end (transmission side).

Correct. I got the impression he was going to auto trans.

Sam
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Hi all

Ok I have the booster and bracket from cpp. Cpp said if I am using the stock three speed. I need to replace the shaft with there kit. I didnt understand why. But the new shaft is longer then stock. I have been trying to drill out the roll pin because it would not budge. I have broken 4 drills. And there is about 1/8 or less of the roll pin holding me up.They alll seem to hang up on the parting line of the roll pin.

When I bolted up the booster master and brackets it seemed like the booster push rod didnt seem to bolt up to the stock pedal. Thats why I took it all apart and tried to take out roll pin and clutch pivot bolt. I am really disheartened by all the bad stuff happening with what was supposed to be a easy project.

Jerry
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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If you are going to replace the shaft, why not hot-wrench it in two?
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 08:52 PM
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Jerry,

My CPP setup mounted up fine but the brake rod end attached on the outside of the stock pedal setup. I will try to get a photo of mine to help you out. Try driving the remaining piece of the pin out. Frustration can only lead to results.... don't give up.

Ty

P.S. CPP makes good stuff but they are sometime incorrect about things. When you look at their instructions for your kit (I just checked to refresh my memory), you will see they are eliminating the clutch pedal. You want to keep your clutch.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
If you are going to replace the shaft, why not hot-wrench it in two?
There is no need to replace the shaft if just doing the brake upgrade. That replacement shaft is for those wishing to eliminate the clutch pedal, i.e. going to an automatic tranny. If he is keeping the manual tranny he MUST use the stock shaft.
 
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Old May 6, 2012 | 09:05 PM
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Harrier, Thanks for posting the diagram. I was having trouble getting my clutch pedal off also. After looking at your diagram, I had it off in just a couple minutes.
 
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