ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 544
Likes: 7
From: Tulsa
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
Pop quiz!
1986 F250 5.8L 351w What A/C compressor do I have? And where's the best place to get a cheap clutch puller?
Which also brings me to another question.
My A/C (when charged) will run fridgid for about 3-4 weeks and then there will be nothing. The compressor has good bearings, none of the hoses leak. I think the seals in the clutch are out. But it's just guess. There seams to be a little bit of dry oil right behind the pully on the compressor. Sound right to you professionals?
Give me all the info you can think of. I'm next to clueless on this stuff.
1986 F250 5.8L 351w What A/C compressor do I have? And where's the best place to get a cheap clutch puller?
Which also brings me to another question.
My A/C (when charged) will run fridgid for about 3-4 weeks and then there will be nothing. The compressor has good bearings, none of the hoses leak. I think the seals in the clutch are out. But it's just guess. There seams to be a little bit of dry oil right behind the pully on the compressor. Sound right to you professionals?
Give me all the info you can think of. I'm next to clueless on this stuff.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Allegany, NY
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
The brand of compresssor installed will be directly linked to the plant your truck was originally built at. no way to tell by just the year and model. there should be a name plate on it also.
auto zone or J C whitny for a cheap puller.
clutch seals definetly go bad i picked up a U V dye injection kit with a lamp that will power up from the battery at pep boys but again J C Whit. gots them to
how are you charging the system your self or taking it to a shop. R- 12 is way to pricey to be charging up once a month. find the leak do the fix and convert to 134A or have you done the converson already?
Danny
auto zone or J C whitny for a cheap puller.
clutch seals definetly go bad i picked up a U V dye injection kit with a lamp that will power up from the battery at pep boys but again J C Whit. gots them to
how are you charging the system your self or taking it to a shop. R- 12 is way to pricey to be charging up once a month. find the leak do the fix and convert to 134A or have you done the converson already?
Danny
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 544
Likes: 7
From: Tulsa
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
I'm beginning to think the puller is loanable at Autozone. So I'll try that. I tried to recharge the system last spring with R-22. But It all leaked out. Worked real well for a while. I could get the cab down to almost 34*F.
My uncle works in the refridgeration biz and was able to get the R22 for next to nothing. It's a commercial refridgerant used in freezers, but is supposed to be compatible with R12. It has to go in at a slightly lower pressure though.
My uncle works in the refridgeration biz and was able to get the R22 for next to nothing. It's a commercial refridgerant used in freezers, but is supposed to be compatible with R12. It has to go in at a slightly lower pressure though.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 544
Likes: 7
From: Tulsa
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
I'm just trying to get a general concensus here. What do other folks have. My truck was built at a plant in Canada. Actually, I think it was somewhere in Ontario. I don't know... But I'm still kinda looking for a definative answer. I'd go check the tag, but my truck's in Tulsa and I'm in Dallas.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 0
From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
Your compressor is more than likely a FS-6, or a 6E171 if you have factory air. I would not attempt again to put R-22 into your system as it operates at about twice the discharge pressure as R-12. I am surprised that you did not blow a discharge hose right through your hood! The condensing pressure on R-22 is around 240 psi in normal stationary units and in a vehicle it would approach around 350-400 psi because of the additional heat. I would suggest that you change it over to R-134. This requires a change in the oil that is in the system and I suggest flushing it out good and using the compatible glycol based oil that is used with that refrigerant. There are many threads on this website on changing refrigerants.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
If it's round and has an aluminum case split in the middle, it's the FS-6.
I've never needed a puller to remove a clutch. Just remove the nut & 2 snap-rings and it all slides off the front of the compressor.
I highly recommend R-134a for lots of reasons. You can find several recent threads about it.
I've never needed a puller to remove a clutch. Just remove the nut & 2 snap-rings and it all slides off the front of the compressor.
I highly recommend R-134a for lots of reasons. You can find several recent threads about it.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 544
Likes: 7
From: Tulsa
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
I've already taken into accout that fact that R22 runs at a much higher pressure. I took the steps to guarentee that It would not put Hoses through the hood. Thanks for caring though.
However, if I do decide to go ahead and give the R134 a whirl, it will work just as well as the R22 was working before it leaked out right? I'm a little leary about trying the stuff, because I've heard it doesn't work, it'll clog the compressor, it eats hoses, if the R12 isn't all gone then it cancels then it becomes neutralized. All kinds of freaky things. I'm relatively sure that only about half are true, but those are my reasons. But maybe I'll try it next time. It's pretty cheap stuff.
>>My A/C (when charged) will run fridgid for about 3-4 weeks and then there will be nothing. The compressor has good bearings, none of the hoses leak. I think the seals in the clutch are out. But it's just guess. There seams to be a little bit of dry oil right behind the pully on the compressor. Sound right to you professionals?<<
However, if I do decide to go ahead and give the R134 a whirl, it will work just as well as the R22 was working before it leaked out right? I'm a little leary about trying the stuff, because I've heard it doesn't work, it'll clog the compressor, it eats hoses, if the R12 isn't all gone then it cancels then it becomes neutralized. All kinds of freaky things. I'm relatively sure that only about half are true, but those are my reasons. But maybe I'll try it next time. It's pretty cheap stuff.
>>My A/C (when charged) will run fridgid for about 3-4 weeks and then there will be nothing. The compressor has good bearings, none of the hoses leak. I think the seals in the clutch are out. But it's just guess. There seams to be a little bit of dry oil right behind the pully on the compressor. Sound right to you professionals?<<
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
I can send you my OCR of the MACS (Mobile Air Conditioning Society - the regulatory body that certifies motor vehicle A/C technicians) which explains all the myths & facts about the different refrigerant types, but it's not fully converted to a plain-text Word document yet, and it's BIIIIIIG. If you want it, e-mail or PM me your real e-mail address, but be sure it can accept 3Meg.
Last edited by steve83; May 4, 2003 at 06:11 PM.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 0
From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
Certification for part 609 I understand can be done online for a fee. I took both my 608 and 609 certification tests 10 years ago when they first started the certification program. It would be a good idea to study the books a bit before taking the exam.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
You only need 609 for MVACs, but techs servicing only farm/construction-type equipment with MVAC-like R-134a or R-12 cabin cooling systems can choose 609 or 608-Type II certification. Techs servicing any R-22 system (whether or not on a motor vehicle) must have 608-Type II or IV certification.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Allegany, NY
ANSWER QUICKLY: what Compressor do I have?
134 A will do you well as long as you dont short cut the converson prossess.
yu will need to fush the system get all the old oil and trash out replace the dryer/accumulator cartrige, o-rings and lock springs.
refrigeratnt sales has a conversion kit for about 20.00 bucks with out the freon the dryer cartrige is about 60.00 at autozone and 134a is 6.00 bucks a car can (http://www.refrigerantsales.com/)
i like to add a can of Maxi cool first then charge the sytem but you dont have to use it.
vacum it down and leak check it first before adding the refrigerant and maxi cool.
http://www.aircondition.com/ is a good site to browze and will help you make the right calll for you
danny
yu will need to fush the system get all the old oil and trash out replace the dryer/accumulator cartrige, o-rings and lock springs.
refrigeratnt sales has a conversion kit for about 20.00 bucks with out the freon the dryer cartrige is about 60.00 at autozone and 134a is 6.00 bucks a car can (http://www.refrigerantsales.com/)
i like to add a can of Maxi cool first then charge the sytem but you dont have to use it.
vacum it down and leak check it first before adding the refrigerant and maxi cool.
http://www.aircondition.com/ is a good site to browze and will help you make the right calll for you
danny