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Battery Light Blinking

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Old May 2, 2012 | 03:28 PM
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Battery Light Blinking

Ok, so my battery light blinks a few times per week for 3 weeks. I can't check what is failing because it is sooo random I cannot create the issue when testing. How long do you think before it goes full on and it is alternator time?
 
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Old May 2, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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If you had a DMM that has a min/max function? Any place that you can monitor battery voltage while driving like a cigarette lighter or power point will work.
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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It could be a ground issue with the battery cable. But if I had to put a finger on a long distance Dx. I would say the diode/s are getting hot and one is opening up. I would also check the power lead at the power junction box.

Rod
 
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Old May 4, 2012 | 02:57 PM
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My battery light blinks when I turn left and go up a hill. Its been blinking somewhat randomly for 3 years. I ignore it. If it stays on then I would get worried. How many miles are on your Escape? This seems to be something that occurs on high mileage vehicles.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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It happens about once a day and stays on for a few seconds.

I do not notice any specific action when it does it. It is random.

The repair shop said maybe alternator or similar, but they cannot do anything until it stays on 100% of the time and then I have just enough juice to make it to the shop.
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 02:23 PM
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and over 100k miles
 
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Old May 24, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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If you alternator fails you should be able to go quite a ways before you are totally out of juice (maybe 50 miles)?
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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Ours does it ask well. I have a volt meter but it is analog not digital and I don't dee any fluctuation in voltage when the light is on. I've decided it's just there to tick me off.

Ours has around 237k.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 07:50 AM
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Chasing this issue with my granddaughters Escape right now. I've put a Fluke as well as a cigarrette lighter volt readout on it. Also I've checked the SG on each cell and know the batt is good. I've kept the little display in the car so she knows that a real failure will show a continuious volt reading of 12 and below.

From what I've seen on her car there is more of a variation in voltage output while driving, very briefly dropping down to the 12's, which is probably setting off the light. Escapes can have issue with the connector to the main harness (not batt output) coming loose over time. Haven't yet checked if Ford sells replacement pigtails for that connector.

Brushes or diodes could be at fault as one bad diode could reduce output (Escape don't got great alt output anyway). These alts are so hard to get to that when I have to go in there I'm going to replace the connector and get a new alternator from Ford. Aftermarket rebuilt alternators have become way too unreliable to use for this type of situation.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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I have had the battery light coming on for a year now. Ive been reading the various posts. I just read a post saying it could actually be low coolant which didnt make any sense to me at all. I went out and looked at the coolant recovery tank and it was low. I put about a cup of coolant into the recovery tank. Problem solved. No battery light at all. Maybe someone can explain this. The light on the dash was the battery light. It would come on after the car sat and would go after driving a mile. It would not go out just warming up. Hope this helps someone.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Do what the oldtimers used to do. Get behind the instrument cluster and take the bulb out behind the "Battery" indicator. No bulb, no blink.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fmtrvt
...and get a new alternator from Ford. Aftermarket rebuilt alternators have become way too unreliable to use for this type of situation.
While I do agree the aftermarket ones aren't very good (went through 2 in a month the first time I had issues) the unit I got from Ford lasted right at 2 years - not very good either. I wanted to keep the one I took out and have it rebuilt by a company up the road but the wife wanted her $60 core charge back. Probably not a bad idea since we only want to keep it another year at which time it should be at almost 280k miles.

Who knows though, if it's still running good at that point I may start driving it when she gets the new vehicle.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 02:47 PM
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My tribute started blinking about amonth ago. Last night it started staying on longer. Every once in while the ABS and the brake light in the dash would light up as I was driving. I just wanted to make it home. This morning I tested the voltage and it was showing 14.9 volts at an idle. Tonight when I get home I plan on putting an amp tester on the positive side of the battery. I think the alternator is rated for 110 amps.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 10:48 AM
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Does the alternator on a 2003 escape need a heat sheild, or any kind of shield? I just had the alternator replaced and the guy said the sheild was missing? Does it need one or not? Sorry for this reply, I thought I was asking a question
 
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Old Mar 19, 2013 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tryingescape
Does the alternator on a 2003 escape need a heat shield, or any kind of shield? I just had the alternator replaced and the guy said the shield was missing? Does it need one or not? Sorry for this reply, I thought I was asking a question
Mine does not have one, I'm pretty sure the shop left it off because when I did the first 2 replacements it was there. Went about 60,000 miles before ti had to be replaced again and I did not put one on it (because I didn't have it).
I'm sure it mostly keeps the heat away more than water/debris.
 
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