2003 Ford Sport Trac with 4.0L SOHC engine

I started having this problem after I decided to do a tune up because of another minor unrelated problem (start up taking 2+ cranks sometimes and fine when gas is full... I'm going to replace the fuel pump for that but not until i resolve the more pressing issue)

Before the problem I had spark plugs and wires (all but #3) replaced by my dad and he also put in some Fuel Cleaner into the gas tank.

He took it to a local mechanic and had the mechanic replace the #3 spark and wire and check the others and also replace the fuel filter.

After that my car was taken to jiffy lube where engine oil was changed... as well something else but I dont know what because no one is able to tell me.... my dad had one of his employees take it and the employee took it upon himself to get other things done but he doesn't know what.

GRRR

And then when I got my car back after the weekend is when this issue started.

First I noticed a rattling (like a plastic is caught on a fan blade and it is hitting something as it goes round and round) right after engine is started.
And on the roads, when I try to accelerate, it will accelerate- but very slowly as if my engine had no power.
When I floor my gas pedal, the car will continue to drive at a constant speed and I can start to hear a really fast rattling which I am not sure if it is the same thing making the rattling sound I hear at start up.

I've gotten the following codes:
300, 301, 303, 316

I have since then had my spark plugs rechecked, wires for #1, 2, 3 and 4 replaced with another brand.
There was no long term change but I have noticed that everytime anyone has messed with the wires (when spark plugs were changed, when wires were changed and when sparks were checked... etc) for about 3 drives right after it the car feels more powerful and smooth and then it will go back to driving like crap.

I have also changed the CKP sensor (advice of the Auto Zone) and there has been no change.

I have also repalced the coil pack this weekend and no change.
I have bought th emore expensive wires but didn't change them since 2nd set for 1, 2, 3 and 4 has not made changes.

Currently:
Only thing I have more noticed is that the car when first driven, feels okay at start up. I can accelerate from 0 to 30 with decent power and time and as long as i dont floor the gas and only lightly depress the gas the car will continue to accelerate with decent power and speed.
HOWEVER, anytime the engine is strained (like going up a hill) I loose speed. and AFTER any time the engine is strained, i will no longer beable to accelerate with decent power and time.
The car at this point feels like it it trying, almost sounds and feels gritty if that makes any sense, and if i try to at least keep speed, the engine sounds change but no increase in speed. At this point I usually just try tapping lightly on the gas and it will eventually get upto 30mph and of course more effort to go beyond and continually increase the speed.
It takes me a good few minutes for me to go from 0 to 35 and another few minutes to get upto 45. (Now everyone drives around me after a complete stop because I cannot even get to 20 rightaway like most normal working cars.)



Does anyone have any idea as to how to resolve this issue? I really would hate to replace one part at a time to play guess and check but I also don't know any true mechanics in the area that can really drive, listen and look and determine what exactly is going on without playing guess and check with every little and big parts that are involved.

I have seen some people replace the intake manifold, O2 sensors, CKP/CAM sesors, cyliders...

I appreciate any help I can get to narrow down and resolve my problem accelerating.

 

All your codes are pointing to engine misfire

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected

P0316 engine service code (engine misfire)

The jiffy lube will have a record of what was done to your vehicle, just go in it will be listed by your plate. From there can better narrow down the problem. First thing is pull the plugs and check them for oil and gas or any carbonization

 

Start by removing all your sparks, chasing the threads to remove any carbon.

Install Motocraft or Autolite double platinum plugs. Install known good wire set.

If issue persists, connect a LIVE DATA SCANNER, and report findings.... Philip

 

Philip,

I was told that the new sparks that were installed are the "dealer quality" and the "best" there is <-- according to my dad and also from the mechanic that checked all and installed #3.

Is that supposed to be the same as the double platinums that you speak of or is that something different?

 

You have me at a disadvantage since I dont know what you installed.

If your engine uses a single coil pack, it utilizes a waste spark system which is known to be particular about which sparks will/will not work properly...... Philip

 

Thanks for letting me know~
I checked and thankfully, I also saved the old ones, and they are exactly the same branding and all. Not sure if the old ones were factory or not though since we bought the car used.

I think it is time for me to take it to a different mechanic and let them scratch their heads > . <
I'll keep this thread updated though incase anyone is in the same situation...

 

Is it a state secret or will you identify the brand of plugs you are using... Philip

 

Were/are they gapped correctly?

 

Have you checked fuel pressure? All your problems could be related.

 

Philip-
No it is not a state secret... the ones that were already in the truck when we got it was Motorcraft Platinum and the ones we used to replace was the same.

Critterf1-
Gaps were triple checked... > . <



Since the last post...

I took it to a different mechanic (someone used him for 13 yrs and highly recommended him)
He ended up replacing both catalyc converters... both were no longer usable and clogged/blocked due to it running lean. He also replaced all three oxygen sensors... and all of that cost me just a tad over 2k.
What is frustrating is that my dad asked the first mechanic to check all the sensors... and that same mechanic told me that my car would not get damaged from running with the problems that i now had. I think that is why instead of 1 catalyc converter going bad, both did... grrrr.

The car is running better than ever... while running that is...
But I have noticed that the slight rattling when i start the engine is still there (this started right after I had the spark plugs, wires and fuel filter changed)
Another thing is that when i started the car yesterday it would turn on then just turn off except the check engine light and check guage light and i think the airbag light. It continued to repeat until we finally got it to stay on and run by reving the engine just after it turns on before it has a chance to die. I am planning on getting a new battery since the current one has been corroding on the (-) negative side.
This morning, the rpm was fluctuating from 0-1.25k ish and making a weird sound. I revved the engine and it went down to around 1k and sounded normal with no fluctuations.

 

I suggest you pull the intake air tube off the throttle body with the engine cool and not running, open the throttle all the way, then inspect the back side of the throttle plate and inside the bore for a build up of carbon and sludge. Maybe you have a build up that is preventing the throttle plate from closing all the way easily.

-Rod

 

Rod i think you were right about the intake... I got a call from the mechanic (the same one that fixed the major issues) and he said that he ran another smoke test and found that there was a leak in the intake manifold. Apparently the gasket had worn out and was causing imbalance and thinks it may also be why I was having trouble starting my car as well.
He is going to replace it today and run another smoke test to make sure there are no more leaks and then run a computerized test also to make sure there is nothing else going on with the car...