hydroboost...old dog and...
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
hydroboost...old dog and...
Well, it's been about a year since my brakes started self-applying! Yep, the outcome of using a j/y hydro unit. I finally got around to pulling it. I planned on rebuilding it, but after spending untold hours rebuilding/dialing in a Quardrajet carb, and after losing the instructions on how to rebuild the son-of-a-gun, I decided to just buy a rebuilt unit. Lessons learned, you know. Happy to pay $140 for a rebuilt, instead of spending a planned day (meaning three) on figuring out how to rebuild it myself.
Gees, now maybe, if my brakes aren't self applying, maybe I can figure out my mpg???
Gees, now maybe, if my brakes aren't self applying, maybe I can figure out my mpg???
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
Autolite 4100, 1.08" venturi.
I just spent all weekend replacing the hydroboost unit in an effort to solve the issue of my self applying brakes. $140 later, and the problem persists!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So now I can see the problem has to be from the p/s fluid in the brakes when I first installed it back when.
I just spent all weekend replacing the hydroboost unit in an effort to solve the issue of my self applying brakes. $140 later, and the problem persists!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So now I can see the problem has to be from the p/s fluid in the brakes when I first installed it back when.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
Do you think some of the rubber lines might have been damaged from the wrong fluid and went spongy and collapsed inside?
Maybe a professional grade system flush is in order?
That sucks, but at least you know your hydroboost unit is good to go.
Maybe a professional grade system flush is in order?
That sucks, but at least you know your hydroboost unit is good to go.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
I have Wed. and Thur. off, and will try to activate the problem, then jack up the truck with it running to determine which wheels are affected. The part that hurts is that all the lines and hoses and calipers are new. I wonder if I need to replace the residual valve and the proportional v. too? Double dang.
Or maybe it is those troublesome Caddy calipers I have on the rear. I'll find out.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 9
From: Western Washington
I wonder, any PS fluid puddling up in the system somewhere? Some residual fluid might be stuck to the metal lines. Maybe try a power bleeder and run some sort of solvent through the hard lines.
I wonder, if your old hydro unit was shot, could it seep PS fluid into the system too?
Good luck man!
Sam
I wonder, if your old hydro unit was shot, could it seep PS fluid into the system too?
Good luck man!
Sam
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
Hey sam--
It is a tough one. Hydro is so new few know how to trouble shoot it. Forum info is all over the board, and then throw in the variable of the p/s fluid, and it's a crap shoot.
With a hb the p/s fluid is isolated to the unit, and triggers a plunger to push a rod into the master. The fluids can't mix, but thanks anyway for taking the time to try.
I will do a test to see if all the wheels are affected, raising the rears and front while the prob is occuring. That will tell me if it is a caliper or master. I really don't want to replace everything again.
It is a tough one. Hydro is so new few know how to trouble shoot it. Forum info is all over the board, and then throw in the variable of the p/s fluid, and it's a crap shoot.
With a hb the p/s fluid is isolated to the unit, and triggers a plunger to push a rod into the master. The fluids can't mix, but thanks anyway for taking the time to try.
I will do a test to see if all the wheels are affected, raising the rears and front while the prob is occuring. That will tell me if it is a caliper or master. I really don't want to replace everything again.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
It it was a conventional system I'd say it was the master cylinder, but with the hydro-boost I'm not sure.. My dad would know he was an ASE certified mechanic when they came out on the GMs.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 9
From: Western Washington
It is a strange one for sure! And I know the feeling, I've just put $2,500 into a rebuild on my 390 and spent $2,000 since then to get it to run right, two intakes two carbs, had to re-seal the intake twice now and the thing still doesn't run right. Not a happy camper. Should have gone with the 6!
Anyway, do you still have the old vacuum booster and master? If you've still got them, it might be worth it to stick them back on and see if it happens. Might help isolate the problem, but your wheel idea sounds like a good one.
Sam
Anyway, do you still have the old vacuum booster and master? If you've still got them, it might be worth it to stick them back on and see if it happens. Might help isolate the problem, but your wheel idea sounds like a good one.
Sam
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 307
Likes: 1
From: South Florida
Hey sam--
It is a tough one. Hydro is so new few know how to trouble shoot it. Forum info is all over the board, and then throw in the variable of the p/s fluid, and it's a crap shoot.
With a hb the p/s fluid is isolated to the unit, and triggers a plunger to push a rod into the master. The fluids can't mix, but thanks anyway for taking the time to try.
I will do a test to see if all the wheels are affected, raising the rears and front while the prob is occuring. That will tell me if it is a caliper or master. I really don't want to replace everything again.
It is a tough one. Hydro is so new few know how to trouble shoot it. Forum info is all over the board, and then throw in the variable of the p/s fluid, and it's a crap shoot.
With a hb the p/s fluid is isolated to the unit, and triggers a plunger to push a rod into the master. The fluids can't mix, but thanks anyway for taking the time to try.
I will do a test to see if all the wheels are affected, raising the rears and front while the prob is occuring. That will tell me if it is a caliper or master. I really don't want to replace everything again.
That brings up another point, check to make sure the master rod is not too long.
BTW, you can rebuild floating calipers very easily, parts are less than 5 bucks apiece. If multipiston about triple that.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,184
Likes: 382
From: Near Los Angeles
I know the cal. rebuild kits are inexpensive. It is the cost of the hoses, the p.valve, and possibly the master that concern me...not to mention the time and labor to do it. Hopefully it will be an isolated problem.
Regarding a sticking/too long p.rod/hydro unit: The pedal has free play for first 10 min. each morning, and the wheels move w/o drag. Then the problem arises. I'll start on it Wed.
Thanks for your know-how, guys.
Regarding a sticking/too long p.rod/hydro unit: The pedal has free play for first 10 min. each morning, and the wheels move w/o drag. Then the problem arises. I'll start on it Wed.
Thanks for your know-how, guys.
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