Well...I come asking for suggestions/recommendations.

A little back story, in the last year twice I have had a soft(long) shift going 2-3 that set a code. I do not notice any slipping once the gears are engaged. I had previously cleared and written off those 2 prior incidents as flukes or possible tuning issue overshooting the gear. As Cale's tunes are designed for the BTS valve body. That said I never have spoken with Cale or Brian on the tuning side of it.

Yesterday I had to make a 600 mile round trip to get my camper from south central Kansas. Empty going up, no issues, trans temperature was right at 170 which is completely normal as I have a completely factory transmission and cooling system. Hooked up the camper headed home. No issues for the first 100 or so miles. Normal driving no faster than 70mph. Trans temps ride a little higher towing, I was around 190. Coming through a small town as there are many on this journey, begin accelerating from the light, normal acceleration. I continue to accelerate and all the sudden I have a soft(long) 2-3 shift, immediately the O/D light flashes, pulled the code and got the P0784, which I already knew. Reset it since with the O/D light on the trans goes into some kind of limp mode where all the shifts are then cushioned quite a bit.

After clearing the code, all is well again, go for another good stretch, then it begins acting up every time I have to come to a stop and accelerate again. As I said, once its in gear it pulls fine. I did discover I could prevent the issue by lifting the throttle slightly when I felt it was going to shift.

My initial thought is to replace the solenoid pack and install a BTS valve body, but if all that would be in vain, I guess I'll have to prep myself for the $5k trans, which I am looking forward to, just not the bill! I realize it's still a 270,000 mile trans but curious if anyone has experience replacing solenoid pack and/or valve body with these symptoms. As always thanks in advance.

 

Mine had a bad 2nd to 3rd shift... if I was easy on the pedal, it shifted OK. If I was on it good, it would delay, then SLAM into gear. I also threw that code a few times as well. Called John Wood and he told me try a valve body. I did and it was pretty much fixed. I know the trans isn't fixed... it obviously has a problem, but it sure did help. That coupled with tunes has made a HUGE difference. I've noticed the shift getting a little longer, but not much. I'd try a valve body before I tried a trans at least.

 

The John Wood valve body has been on my list for quite a while.

 

I love it, man! Just put one in an OBS... again, it firmed/quickened the shifts up VERY nicely!

 

Thanks Jon for sharing your issue, which sounds similar to mine. Today, I drove unloaded, in whatever tune I want and can not get an error, it only seems to show itself when demand/load is higher, as in towing. Even WOT 4WD boosted launches today in a Race tune and no issue, shift to 3rd has always taken a little longer than the others, but I also end up with TC lockup around then in all but my tow tunes in which TC locks at 34MPH no matter what.

I am considering just trying to valve body, but I wasn't sure if anyone had tried replacing the solenoid pack either.

 

Personally I'd try anything before resorting to a pricey trans swap. Not sure if you need a reburn or not to your chip because of your tunes then going with their VB but the J. Wood's VB is a complete drop in without reburn. I had a wacky shift like that a few years ago without my upgraded VB and this J.W made a BIG difference. Good luck.

 

I think you'd be having other issues if you had a bad solenoid pack, but transmissions are greek to me. All I know is a valve body, new oil, and GOOD tunes make it shift AWESOME!!!

No, I think your trans is better off than mine and mine has been hanging in there for a good 30K+ and I've had up to 20K behind the truck at times. Try a valve body.

 

I will likely go with Brian's VB as he is just down the road from me, if he wasn't I would just order John's from Clay.

 

Yep, sounds like a good plan, man!

 

Can't beat that for location. As for the shifting stratagies, you will be happy..You might just see a few MPG's because you'll have nice crisp shifts, no dragging thru the shifts, just clean straight to the point shifts to lockup.

 

I have not been inside of a 4R100 or that many autos either but I feel I have a general idea of the workings, rebuilt a few 4L60E's though but they're cheap. However I don't know what issues a possible plunger issue with a solenoid might cause, I tend to agree that it is less likely than the valve body hanging up or possibly a bent or broken spring to not show any other issues. I suppose I could just test for opens or shorts on the solenoids. And I hope you aren't trying to turn this into a tuning debate, cause I do not want to go there. Lol

 

That's the thing, if there is no slow shift from 2-3 all of my shifts are very firm and fast, but the second it acts up, then all go soft/slushy. Clear it, and like today if not towing, I have to have a revers HANS device on to keep from snapping my neck or breaking traction at all shifts. That's more why my thoughts lean towards a sticky/burred valve body.

 

Not at all!

There's different options and different people... worthless argument IMO. I just said good because tunes aren't just tunes. There's a BIG difference between my DP-Tuner and my old Superchips... and FYI, my old Superchips made that 2nd to 3rd shift flare up. The truck didn't do it stock, but it did with the Superchips on it.

 

Good times, I have actually had DP, Superchips 1705, and Cales tunes. Pleased with all of them actually. Just most pleased with the current tuning.

 

I'm no trans guru but I'm assuming your shifting stratagies were enhanced with your tunes, mine as well. Considering talking to Brian or Cale for a proper diag. before pulling the trigger on a VB, although IMO it wouldn't hurt, see what they say. Maybe Mark K. will chime in soon.