Hello,
looks like i finally found a site on the net with the right expertiese!

have a '90 ford e350 club wagon XLT witch i bought resently. has a 7.3 diesel.

 

Hello Norway

I was just in Bryne a few months ago. Too bad I could not help.

Anyway what color was the oil?

Is your rear main leaking? As for the rock, break it in half and tell us if it is rock or metal.

Take some pictures and post them here so we can see with our eyes.

 

The hard 1-2 shift is often due to a sticky accumulator valve in the accumulator body. You can get the accumulator body out without removing the transmission. It's inside the pan.

 

Thanks for quick reply!

the oil was quite black, and smell like ****.. but it was very dark where i worked so i didnt see the oil very clear when it drained down in the pit

when the transmission was dropped, oil flowen out of the rear nose. is this right?? i belive it should be sealed right?

how much oil should there be in these transmissions actually? a friend of mine sayd it should be over 15liters (ca 15.8 quarts) atf is not cheap so hope its not that much..

 

Mark: this accumulator valve, can this be oiled up and work nicely again or will it need replacement?

 

That usually indicates more than a sticky accumulator valve. Since the trans is already out it might be worth tearing it down to see if something has failed.

It is sealed only if the driveshaft is in place. If the driveshaft was removed there is no longer a seal in the rear of the transmission.

He's right, if the torque converter is drained. DO NOT reinstall the torque converter with black oil in it! If you rebuild the transmission get a new torque converter.

It depends if it is damaged or just has a piece of debris making it stick. It runs in oil, it's inside the pan.

 

Thanks for your reply mark!! much good help

but now after a solid 15working hours on this transmission stuff.. here is the update:

- the oil on the old transmission smelled like burned clutch, and of course i forgot to mention in the first post here, that the transmission worked nice in revers BUT not forward...... its burned on the discs.. remanifactured transmissions are hard to find here in norway, and expensive ande time consuming to send in for overhaul.. therefore i tore it all out and headed for the parts car:

-parts car is a 86, and the "real" car is a 90. the transmission from the parts car was smaller in construction, much simpler. BUT the oil was clean and nice, and the pan was not full of particles and *****.. so out came the transmisson from the parts car

-TM turned out to be 10cm smaller than the original, so the driveshaft had to be changed.. but the parts car longer driveshaft was broken at the rear end. so hade to cut and weld the driveshaft. helluva job to get straigt, but it turned out nice

-The converter didnt fit over, so had to replace that as well. and the linkage for shifter was not same, but was easy bolt over. the travers (transmission mount beam?) had to be modded some to fit over

-cooiling pipes hade to be slightly modified, and dipsticktube had to be switched. got the gearbox inplace and driveshaft and everyting mounted up. willed up alot of oil in the transmission(brand new BP ATF DX 3)

-THEN COMES THE PROBLEM!! the old transmission have more, and different electronical mounts(mulit pin)

the old TM have one multipin down against the pan from the top. and it have a multipin at the shifter on left side. and of course speedowire and backing light.

the new "but older" transmission, does only have the multi pin at the shifter BUT only 4 connectors, the old one have 8 and guess what, THE CAR WONT START!! before the starting lock is functioning.

the question is therefore very straight forward:

how to wire up the 1990 multipin to work with the 1986 4pin connector for the startlock ???
and, is the multipin for the pan connector(whatever it is) needed? or can it just hang under the car, not connected to something?

hope for a quick reply! need the car up and running tomorrow.

 

here is a picture of the two multi pin connectors:



anyone know how to wire this together??

 

Sounds like you swapped out an e4od for a c6.




I THINK the c6 has a 4 pin connector. One set of pins should have continuity when the transmission is in neutral and park, the other set should have continuity when in reverse only.

Your ECU may not appreciate no feedback from the E4OD. You might have to go get an ECU from a manual F series truck with your vans engine. Making it work would require some harness work, it would be very challenging, and may not work at all.

 

thanks for reply!! but im not sure if your diagrams are the right. as you see in my pic the connector have 8 pins, but they are bridged on the back side, so its actually 4 pins. but its 6 cables so some of the 4 contections have 1 cable and the rest have 2. i wonder whom of those 4(8) pins that i need to conect with the 4pin connector on the transmission in order to make it work? if it will ever work.. if not i have a major major problem... have so far spent over 20hours wrenching on this...

 

Tistlo if you need any help finding or receiving any parts for your project I'm sure someone here will be willing to help----me for one.

I have a friend in Denmark who has asked me on occasion to forward something he can't get sent directly to him from the USA---sellers not interested, etc etc.

Keep this in mind if parts are too expensive or nearly impossible to find.

Best of luck with finishing your swap project!

 

Pins 1 and 4 in my diagram would not be on your van, they are used on 4x4 trucks only. Ford didn't want to make a new part and connector for every vehicle. So you would only have 6 wires, and pins 1 and 4 would have no wires connected. The rest of the diagram should be accurate. Pins 5 and 8 should be your starter safety switch. A Red wire with a blue(or black looking) stripe, and a white wire with a pink(or red looking) stripe.

 

many thanks guys!!! very much to help

and now it RUNS, forward and back

didnt get much smart on the wiring...so i wired up a cable from batteri 12v+ directly to the starter solenoid via a switch under the dash.. oh yea starting up nicely and everything worked perfectly !! i think i had around 13-14 liters of oil on the transmission before it was right on the dipstick
the driveshaft was even centered

only differance is that this transmission requires more rpm to shift. espessially up to 3rd. but i can live with that! now its all about driving nice and checking oil regularely

thanks all for your help!

 

Good to know----lots of help to be found here----hope to see you again!

 

The transmission you installed needs engine vacuum to shift properly. I assume the parts truck was also a diesel since you were able to bolt the trans to the engine. Did you move the vacuum pump and control system from that truck?