I've looked everywhere...no help...so here goes...

2006 F150...4.6 automatic...97k...

Thursday...driven home from town(30 miles)...from a dead stop at traffic light...motor revs and trans catches and jerks into gear...does this half dozen times to my home...

Sits in driveway till Monday morning while I'm out of town...

Drive to dealership...no problems...told"can't do anything till acts up"...

Leave dealership...hunting gears...

Back to dealership...no problem...no help...

Back to dealership for tuneup this morning...no problems with shifting,etc...

Leave dealership after tuneup...worse than ever slipping,hunting gears,etc...

Back to dealership..."2 days before we can look at it"...okay,you are off the list($400 tuneup and battery later)...

All this time...no CEL,no codes,nothing...

Bad COP,bad transmission?Looking for opinions...thanks in advance!

 

Tech at dealerships parting remark after he drove it..."transmission is toast"...

I have yet to be impressed by this dealership...that's why I'm here.

 

You need to take it to your transmission shop. A trans tech needs to test it. With it working perfectly and then going into the hunt it sounds like an electrical problem. You might even test your trans power diode. If it was torque converter it would throw a code, or a pressure problem, also a code. About 20 in all are possible. You are waisting your time and money seriously damaging the trany by neglecting these warning signs. Your tune up was the complete waste not only of your time and money but mine.

 

Been to the transmission shop...went there when I left the dealership...tech drove the truck and could't figure anything out...Nobody has been able to figure anything out...nobody's neglecting anything...that's why I'm trying to get it fixed.
No codes,no lights,no nothing...just looking for suggestions.

...cheer up.

 

You probably have an electrical problem. Find the damaged area in the loom. Probably back by the transmission. These guys should have had it up in the air looking for a damaged area, even a ground bad.

 

Yeah,that's what I'm thinking too...I think maybe tomorrow I might take a look at that loom...if I don't find anything there,I might start changing the coils and boots...they changed the plugs this morning...97K,it was about time I think...got a new battery too...

Thanks,PT.

 

If you find no problems with damaged wiring go next to the digital range sensor at the trans. It is malfing. If you can swap it out/fast fix. One of the power things won't code. Thinks you shifted it out of gear. You do realize this cost you a ton of bucks. Where Cops are lasting until it misfires and throws a misfire code or 2. The battery is something along with the cables, but the trans has a 15 amp fuse. Not a real big curent draw in the scheme of things.

 

I'm not sure I'm understanding you...this digital range sensor will not cause a code to be thrown?When I was at the dealership the third time,the tech had a scanner connected and was revving the engine....no codes of any kind.I really have not been able to get anyone to act like they care if the truck is fixed or not!
I don't have the special tool to line this thing up to install it,either...

 

Some things are a no brainer. If you see no damage to the loom or to the fuse box, than unplug the digital range sensor. Check its connectors both in the plug and in the speed sensor for damage/corrosion. one may be pushed back or bent. It may not be fully connected/locked in place/ snapped in. After reconnecting see if the problem is still there. If not you fixed it. If the problem returns with no codes the next step is to decide which shift is missing. 1st or 2nd. Than you can check for an open but it may not be there when you test for it. If you look closely at the digital shift sensor with the shift arm disconnected and the gear shift in neutral, you will notice the line up of the shaft with the upper screw (left top and the lower screw right bottom, kind of at a 11 and 5 oclock position. This is the setting. It is exact in neutral, so you want to make sure you disconnect with the shifter on the column in neutral. You can also mark the old one with a white paint pen, for allignment rechecks. Now, this is a semiconductor device and it has a loose whisker or connection causing all your trouble. This will fix it. If it don't fix it for some unexplained reason your costs go up astronomical. I hope this has helped.

If the semiconductor device is shorted it would throw a code. But it goes open on the 1st or 2nd speed?

 

Well,after inspecting everything and finding no visible wiring problems,I decided to go get a new sensor...I saw a couple instances on other firms where that had been a problem...not in this case...I changed it out and there was absolutely no difference...it was worth a try and I now have a spare...I plan on keeping the truck,so...the quest for the solution continues...

 

You know your shifting properly, and you know their is no interuption of the current. You have changed the digital range sensor out, checked its wiring, and its plug for damage. Power from the fuse box is good. I'm sure the PCM would code a fault if in it. You could unhook the battery and remove the PCM and inspect it for sign of heat damage to its circuits. If all is good, It is probable to trans internal damage now. The solenoids do fry but usually keep it there. It is possible that a foreigh substance, metal grit is caught up in the solenoid valves. A pan pull, filter and fluid flush might help. All to an unhappy ending. Then?

It's up on the hoist not for sure.

 

Remanufactured transmission tomorrow...

 

Sounds right, you can offer up your spare parts on Craig's list too. LOL

 

Transmission arrived today...won't be installed till Monday morning...I'm nervous that it still won't be fixed!Seen too many horror stories these last few days...but can't find anything else wrong.

 

At your mileage anything. Seal breaking the trans clutches fowling the oil with material, jambing the screens and soleniod valves. A mess, and of course the torque converter can be garbage of brass and steel dumped into the trany pan. Your first warning is jumping and jerking or the death of the slip until no power to the wheels and RPM screaming. Yours seemed to point toward a faulty electrical circuit. Then it worked ok. But? Through all of this you should have codes ranging in the P0700's perty much for a group of problems. In all of this I would still look hard at the fuse box, the back of it, the area where the fuses push in. Corrosion/water can cause a host of migranes. Codes should be there though. I will always own my own code reader that perty much shows all.