Starter vs partially seised seized engine
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Starter vs partially seised seized engine
I have a 89, F350 7.3 that turns slow but wont start against my better judgment my freind tried starter fluid on it. i had the starter rebuilt 1-2 years ago could it be partialy seized how do i check what chould cause it
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Nutter Fort,West Virginia
air intrusion into the injector return lines and check the battery cables.
corrosion means that the starter is not getting the juice that it needs.
you can use starting fluid in small quantities, but you must disable the glow plugs or per-detenation will occur and damage a lot.
corrosion means that the starter is not getting the juice that it needs.
you can use starting fluid in small quantities, but you must disable the glow plugs or per-detenation will occur and damage a lot.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Portage Des Sioux, Mo
Could be the condition of your batteries. They should have 850 cold cranking amps. When mine were load tested, 1 came out at 150, the other at 650. Replacing them worked wonders. And jumper cables can't carry enough current to help much cranking on a diesel. just to recharge what you have.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 521
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Agree to make sure you have two good batteries. Also check all elec connections on your cables to make sure they do not have corrosion.
Starter could be weak, was it rebuilt by a local rebuilder or one of the cheap remanufactured units from like Autozone or similar? Several on here have had poor starters with the mass remanufactured ones. Local rebuilder should be able to give a good high quality rebuild that will crank it over just fine.
Starter could be weak, was it rebuilt by a local rebuilder or one of the cheap remanufactured units from like Autozone or similar? Several on here have had poor starters with the mass remanufactured ones. Local rebuilder should be able to give a good high quality rebuild that will crank it over just fine.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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try cranking the engine over with a breaker bar (glow plugs removed would make it easier), and see how hard it is.
also, have a voltmeter on the system while cranking - the closer to the starter the better. when testing the starter, make sure they test it under load to see how much power it takes - a simple test that simply says it runs or it doesn't won't show up your problem
also, have a voltmeter on the system while cranking - the closer to the starter the better. when testing the starter, make sure they test it under load to see how much power it takes - a simple test that simply says it runs or it doesn't won't show up your problem
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Removed starter and the motor spins but the solinod does not seem to be working ill have it rebuilt again or go to autozone and buy a rebuilt one 4 double the price with life time warrenty and hope 4 best
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try and get a new starter because them rebuilt ones tend to wear out really fast and not to mention it will be worth the money in the long run. had a rebuilt in my truck drained the batts really quick, took the one that was for my 7.3 and was brand new still, that thing kicks some donkey nuts now cranks good and hard
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