It Wont crank!!
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Senior User
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
It Wont crank!!
Well i have a 1985 f150 with a 300 6 that has been converted to DSII ignition and has a 4bbl intake headers and a cam. I have replaced the last starter solenoid Because i fried it i also replaced the fuses after this happend. Now when i go to crank it i have no power no headlight Nothin
. I have been pouring over the manual and have (I belive) narrowed it down to a fusible link. The question i need answerd is how do i check a fusible link ,and if it is bad how do i replace it.
P.S. If Any one here can think of another reason for it to have no power Please speak up.
Thanks,
Jonathan
. I have been pouring over the manual and have (I belive) narrowed it down to a fusible link. The question i need answerd is how do i check a fusible link ,and if it is bad how do i replace it.P.S. If Any one here can think of another reason for it to have no power Please speak up.
Thanks,
Jonathan
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From: Virginia
The main power comes from the solenoid. There is a chance you have put the wires back on in the wrong spot, or like you said, may have blown one of the fusible links. They are colored rubber things in the wire.
To check them you can pull on them, and sometimes they stretch when they have burnt out. You can also check for power after the fusible link by poking the wire with a testlight.
To check them you can pull on them, and sometimes they stretch when they have burnt out. You can also check for power after the fusible link by poking the wire with a testlight.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Just a thought, grasping really, but there is a splice between the alternator and solenoid (will be wrapped up in tape and you may see a bulge there).
In this splice is where the main lead takes off to go to the main power distribution system...also where the connection is made for an Ammeter if you have one. On mine, this splice had become very corroded and was making very poor connection (ammeter conection had just fallen off actually).
Just another place to look if your links are not the problem.
In this splice is where the main lead takes off to go to the main power distribution system...also where the connection is made for an Ammeter if you have one. On mine, this splice had become very corroded and was making very poor connection (ammeter conection had just fallen off actually).
Just another place to look if your links are not the problem.
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
82f100460 I Think I will check that because i just got through checking my fusable links and they have 12 volts on each side. Hope I checked them all (I only found three under the hood).
Thanks,
Jonathan
Thanks,
Jonathan
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
Well just checked the solenoid and the BRAND NEW SOLENOID I bought this morning is a lemon
. No power on the starter side of the solenoid When the key is in the crank position
. No power on the starter side of the solenoid When the key is in the crank position
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From: Dallas, GA
Unfortunately, I seems that I see that on here on a daily basis now days!!
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
Sorry to dig up an old thread folks but I am hitting a wall again. I finally got a new solenoid and still no power, I evend tried skipping the solenoid and giving power straight to the starter and nothing. Dose this mean my starter is bad. The starter is a few years old but it only has 40,000 miles on it. Could it really go bad that fast.
Hopefully it is just some novice mistake I am making. I have been working on this truck for 3 or so years and I am so close i can taste it so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jonathan
I finally got a new solenoid and still no power, I evend tried skipping the solenoid and giving power straight to the starter and nothing. Dose this mean my starter is bad. The starter is a few years old but it only has 40,000 miles on it. Could it really go bad that fast. Hopefully it is just some novice mistake I am making. I have been working on this truck for 3 or so years and I am so close i can taste it so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jonathan
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Are you sure your ground cables and all the other connections are tight and clean?
Do you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the start position?
Have you tried jumping power from the hot stud of the solenoid to the trigger post (little red/blue wire?)
Do you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the start position?
Have you tried jumping power from the hot stud of the solenoid to the trigger post (little red/blue wire?)
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I'm willing to bet that your starter is bad.
On the inline-6, when headers are put on, they sit close to the starter. This high heat exposure causes them to burn up rather fast, and the only way to fix it is a mini-starter or header wrap.
You'll have to remove your headers off of the motor to get the starter out if you have Hedman headers.
On the inline-6, when headers are put on, they sit close to the starter. This high heat exposure causes them to burn up rather fast, and the only way to fix it is a mini-starter or header wrap.
You'll have to remove your headers off of the motor to get the starter out if you have Hedman headers.
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
"Are you sure your ground cables and all the other connections are tight and clean?"
I am 99% sure they are but i will check in the morning.
"Do you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the start position?"
No.
"Have you tried jumping power from the hot stud of the solenoid to the trigger post (little red/blue wire?)"
I have tried that and it has zero effect.
I am 99% sure they are but i will check in the morning.
"Do you hear the solenoid click when you turn the key to the start position?"
No.
"Have you tried jumping power from the hot stud of the solenoid to the trigger post (little red/blue wire?)"
I have tried that and it has zero effect.
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
What dosent make sense to me is even when I put 12 volts directly to the starter is still wont run. When I had a bad solenoid I could still put the power cable from the starter on the positive battery post and crank it now not even that will crank it.
Maybe I'm not getting power to the ignition switch. How do I test that to see if it is the problem.
"1983F1503004x4" It had 40,000 on it when i bought the engine. It ran like a top when I put it in the truck, And i haven't put any miles on it since i got it. It has just been sitting while i get funds and time to work on it. It can't go bad just sitting there or can it
Maybe I'm not getting power to the ignition switch. How do I test that to see if it is the problem.
"1983F1503004x4" It had 40,000 on it when i bought the engine. It ran like a top when I put it in the truck, And i haven't put any miles on it since i got it. It has just been sitting while i get funds and time to work on it. It can't go bad just sitting there or can it
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From: Virginia
You said you took a jumper cable and hooked one end to point #1 in the diagram above, and point #6, and nothing happened? Try that again if that's not what you did. MAKE SURE IT'S IN NEUTRAL OR PARK BEFORE DOING THIS.
If it didn't do anything, take your black jumper cable and hook it at point #2 and then clip it to a good ground on the engine, something that doesn't have paint on it and is bolted to the engine block(like point #4). Then do the first test again with the red cable, jump #1 to #6.
If nothing happens, either your battery is shot or the starter is bad. To check the battery, put a testlight or meter on #1 and #2 while you do the above tests. If it shows good before the test, and shows bad while you are doing the test, the battery is low or bad. If the testlight stays bright or the meter shows good during the test, then I would suspect the starter.
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From: Locust Grove, Georgia
Franklin2
OK i did the tests. Test#1 Point#1 to Point #6 no-go. I did hear a slight click this time coming from the starter, could barely hear it but its there.
Test#2 Black cable to Point#2 and bolt on the block Then point#1 to Point#6 with the red cable. Same results as test one.
Now I am going through the house trying to find the volt meter, Wish me luck in finding it.
OK i did the tests. Test#1 Point#1 to Point #6 no-go. I did hear a slight click this time coming from the starter, could barely hear it but its there.
Test#2 Black cable to Point#2 and bolt on the block Then point#1 to Point#6 with the red cable. Same results as test one.
Now I am going through the house trying to find the volt meter, Wish me luck in finding it.
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From: Virginia
Remember when you do the tests again while monitoring the voltage on the battery, if the voltage drops way low, there is something wrong with the battery(also check and wiggle the battery connections unless you are touching the meter directly on the battery posts).
If the voltage stays high, but still nothing happens, it's got to be the starter. I have had the starter not make a good ground connection where it bolts to the bellhousing, because it was so dirty and I did not clean the area before I installed the starter. You might want to check this if you end up taking the starter off.
If the voltage stays high, but still nothing happens, it's got to be the starter. I have had the starter not make a good ground connection where it bolts to the bellhousing, because it was so dirty and I did not clean the area before I installed the starter. You might want to check this if you end up taking the starter off.