the mustang wound up needing an alluminum radiator in the end so it was not much loss...just funny!

 

I had a similar experience a couple years ago. Dad and I were doing a brake job on one of his vehicles and the slide pins were frozen in the caliper brackets on one side. Being his typically "frugal" self he wanted to salvage the parts if possible instead of replacing them. So I secured the caliper bracket in the vise and proceeded to heat the bracket to free the pin. I got it just about cherry red and was about to turn the torch off and grab the pin with a channel locks when it shot out of the bracket, flew right between us and all the way across the shop (36') where it left a dent in the drywall. It sounded like a gun had gone off. Dad was white as a sheet. That thing had missed his bellybutton by about 2", lol. Apparently the moisture and grease inside the bracket built up enough pressure behind the rust that sealed the pin in place it made a steam cannon of sorts. Needless to say we heated the next one a little more slowly...

 

Old Dad was about to have two belly buttons ! LOL!!!

 

they do squeak if you don't put the lubricant, or enough of it, on them it drove me carzy

this is a good suggestion

 

LOL, you 'ain't a kiddin!! Funny how that stud can turn into a 350 grain 25 caliber slug just that quick!

 

I've had crap like that happen to me before. It's a wonder I haven't lost an eye or took my whole stinkin head off with something!

 

Getting hurt is not an option. Been there done that too many times.

 

New bushings

I've done a bunch of these, they are not bad at all.
Drill out the rubber bushings, the drill will eventually walk it's way aorund the outer housing cutting it away from the rubber, then around the inner steel bushing cutting awya from rubber there, too. Once that's done hammer the rubber and inner steel out, then sawsall a slit in the outer steel sleeve that's left in place, hammer and screwdriver to get it out.
It is actually that easy, only takes a few minutes per busing.

Good luck.

 

I used his write up ^^^^. It worked great. The only hard part was lining up the bolts holes on the spring eyes on re-install.

 

You can't do one hole at a time, you need to drop that whole end of the axle, both sides at the same time. Like do both front eyes, then jack up and bolt in, then drop both back eyes down and do them.

 

I didn't think about doing it that way. Would it make any difference with a Dana 50?

 

Leaf spring bushing removal can be accomplished with each of the processes mentioned. I have used versions of each, but have added a slick way to press them out.

Have a friend (or yourself) make an arbor that is machined to the same size as the O.D. of the metal part of the bushing, turn the first 1 1/2" down to the size of the I.D., bore a hole in the opposite end that will accomodate about 1/2" of the end of the screw of your wheel puller.
(This 1/2" will make it easier to hold everything in place as you turn the screw)

Put the bushing in place and screw away. Really saves on the muscle and amazes the mind.

 

Is this a good mess of parts to get if most of the rubber under the truck is dry rotted/cracked?

Prothane # 6-2027 - Ford F250 Total Poly Bushing Kits 1980-1998