roots supercharger condition
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
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From: Boise Idaho
roots supercharger condition
I have a few supercharger projects coming up and I want to get an idea of what kind of wear/damage is too severe for a street run 6-71 blower, whether it be the case or rotors. My first one is going on a 1976 ford truck with the 460. I pulled the blower apart today and it has scratches on the case and the ends of the rotors. How much efficiency is normally lost from deep scratches? Is it that big of a deal for street use? It has not been converted to gas yet. I just want to better understand better how to assess wear and what effects it has so any words from experience are appreciated.
I'll get some pics sometime tonight, which I'm sure will help.
I'll get some pics sometime tonight, which I'm sure will help.
Cranky Old Guy
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,562
Likes: 6
From: Raphine, Virginia
Hate to see a post not answered. Blowers, turbo's, turbine engines, all are built to close tolerances. What you see are the results of worn bearings. Left untouched they will self destruct.
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
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From: Boise Idaho
I'm going to send my 671 into Dean's Blowers to have it rebuilt, but I still don't know about the condition and if it would be worth it. Maybe I can send some pics to Dean, but there is only so much you can get from an image. Looking at the price of a converted blower I'm thinking that buying one outright is definitely the way to go. Better than guessing.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
The better the sealing surface, the better it will perform. All depends on condition and like you mentioned, pictures might not do any justice.
If the bearings are worn out, it will allow the rotors to rub on the case and tear things up. That is worse case scenario.
I got a NOS blower and converted it to car use. Removed the truck end bells, machines the input shafts for car drive(BDS) and bolted it on. Been there 12 yrs now without issue. I only run 5-6# boost(15% underdriven), so I'm not hard on it.
It can sit all winter and still hold boost pressure in the end bell, though it does have relief valve, I don't always push it in.
If the bearings are worn out, it will allow the rotors to rub on the case and tear things up. That is worse case scenario.
I got a NOS blower and converted it to car use. Removed the truck end bells, machines the input shafts for car drive(BDS) and bolted it on. Been there 12 yrs now without issue. I only run 5-6# boost(15% underdriven), so I'm not hard on it.
It can sit all winter and still hold boost pressure in the end bell, though it does have relief valve, I don't always push it in.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 0
From: Boise Idaho
The better the sealing surface, the better it will perform. All depends on condition and like you mentioned, pictures might not do any justice.
If the bearings are worn out, it will allow the rotors to rub on the case and tear things up. That is worse case scenario.
I got a NOS blower and converted it to car use. Removed the truck end bells, machines the input shafts for car drive(BDS) and bolted it on. Been there 12 yrs now without issue. I only run 5-6# boost(15% underdriven), so I'm not hard on it.
It can sit all winter and still hold boost pressure in the end bell, though it does have relief valve, I don't always push it in.
If the bearings are worn out, it will allow the rotors to rub on the case and tear things up. That is worse case scenario.
I got a NOS blower and converted it to car use. Removed the truck end bells, machines the input shafts for car drive(BDS) and bolted it on. Been there 12 yrs now without issue. I only run 5-6# boost(15% underdriven), so I'm not hard on it.
It can sit all winter and still hold boost pressure in the end bell, though it does have relief valve, I don't always push it in.
. I'm going to send my 671 in to deans blowers and have it rebuilt. Bearing was definitely causing problems. I looked into using the blower on an injection motor, which was my original intention, but the inefficiencies would have been to great by loosening up the rotors and I can't mess around with the injection setup. So I'm going to go with a whipple twin screw and make it simple and expensive. Why not. Might as well do it right.
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