I just wanted a thread out here that tells you guys/gals that a 5speed swapped into our early model ford trucks is about the best idea for anyone that is looking for better drive-ability and a bit more modern/late model feel on the clutch. I have search many of times for a thread on this subject and never really found much information. By reading what i did find i was 95% sure it could be done. I even spoke with a gentleman well before i was ready to jump into the project that had all the necessary parts and would have helped me do this install. For the record, i found it much more valuable taking it to my dudes i have come across in Virginia (stationed here for the time being/USMC). The name of the shop is 'The Restoration Shop'. Ralph is the owner and is quite the stand-up kind that you know tells the truth and can tell what sort of mood this guy is in at first sight. To say the least, he has my trust at this point after a complete 300ci I6 build, or rebuild is what i should really say and this transmission project.
Anyhow, i will give a brief explanation of what i found to be necessary for this to work. It really is not all that hard but seems overwhelming at first when you start of not knowing exactly what the hell you might be getting into.

Parts:

(1) M5R2 in good shape or rebuilt. They also go by M5OD as i am sure someone is going to correct me or something, but oh well.
(2)Since going to a hydraulic clutch setup you will need to get a pre-filled/pre-bled system. These systems apparently are a pain in the *** to bleed so go to NAPA, spend the money on a pre-filled system that comes with your Master/slave/line all in one.
(3)My '83 as i am sure most manual clutch setups have a different tab that is connected to the rod that goes straight down through your trans tunnel and connected to the pedal linkage. I found it much easier to go to the salvage yard and tear (literally) apart a later model, think i found an '88 f250 that already has the hydraulic system in it, and get the entire pedal assembly and everything you can. Shoot, you might even be able to find the entire transmission while your at it to get it rebuilt.
(4)While at the salvage yard i found a nice trans tunnel panel that i pulled out of something like a '92-'95 f150. Pulled that to make the install a bit easier. I believe you can get one from LMCTruck.com if you want a brand new one.
(5)While pulling the transmission out of a parts truck, make sure to get the driveshaft, if you don't have a donor truck like this then get the right length of one. I don't know the exact length as i came across a donor truck that worked perfect. I am sure someone will chime in here and give us the length.

Thats it. The parts list isn't really that big. My truck originally had that POS SROD that i never had any luck with and the ratios seemed to be way too far apart. Either way, what you need to do is decide whether you are skilled enough to remount your cross-member back a couple inches because that is, to my knowledge, about the only sort of fabrication you will have to do to get this thing roll'in. Oh, except of course cutting a whole and mounting the master cylinder in the firewall and also they changed out the slipyoke out of the '83 and put it on the later model driveshaft since the later model had a "???????" (someone help me, it has a plate of some sort that bolts to another part).

Before this i swapped out my old 8.8 rear end that had some stupid low gears like 2.49:1 or something that was a dog with at trac loc 3.55:1 gears in it. I think i would even go down to 3.29's for a solid highway gear and the ratio would be perfect. I have a set of 3.08's that i am a little hesitant to put in the rear since i don't know how yet and think it might be a little low. Maybe one day soon i will try, but for light hauling right now the 3.55 will work.

The engine i have was a complete build up from scratch. Purchased a block from a dude down in richmond, va. Cleaned the living daylights out of it after having it acid dipped. Went to the junk yard and pulled a head from an E250 i think, which i never want to do again. Those vans suck. While i was there i liked the serpentine belt set up and i got the two brackets with all hardware. I should have taken the valve cover while i was at it but figured since i was getting a "custom" made aluminum cover from CLIFFORD Performance, which i will not do again, that i didn't need it. Truth is, the clifford parts seem to do well but that damn cover i could never get to seal up. I tried every way possible. Anyhow, like i said, i got all the performance parts (i.e., 270 cam, intake, cloyes timing set, valves, bearings, headers, etc.) from clifford. They have the complete package that they sell you. At first i had mixed thoughts on the outcome, but now couldn't be more satisfied. It was my fault foremost since i punched through the #1 cylinder wall when installing the water pump. i never had compression in that one after ruining the damn rings and thus could not get the engine to run/tune right....DUH! That is why i had to have it rebuilt. Lessons learned, at the cost of my sanity. I got a custom built alternator from TUFF STUFF (called them direct after speaking with SUMMIT), they rock, the guy i spoke with build it with a black powdercoated case. I had to make a slight alteration to the mounting tabs to make it line up right. Stock flywheel/clutch.

Please, if you have any question i will be more than happy to help answer them. This tends to be a very rare build/application and after doing so i can totally understand why. But then again, i am the intermediate type that still has a lot to learn. And yes that is my Miata in the back, love that thing. Also, just picked this open deck trailer up for $800. Happy with that deal.

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Only one thing i need from you guys, it seems to be that i have to push the pedal all the way to the floor for the clutch to disengage. Is this normal for the hydraulic clutch, i don't think so but this is why i ask. if not, is there some sore of adjustment that i don't see or can't seem to find out? Thanks for the help!

 

Thanks for the writeup on the tranny swap. I'm currently in the planning stage on my ZF5 swap, so you've given me inspiration.

Does the slave cylinder mount on the outside and control the release arm? If so, isn't there an adjustment there?

As for the Miata, I always liked them. Mine was the first year, unlike your BRG one, and it was my baby.

 

I second the accolade for the great write up. I have an 83 with a 300 that I also built and am in the process of converting from the AOD to a 5 speed and 4WD. I've already got quite a bit of parts to include an M5R2 and two BW 1356 TCs but I'm still on the fence about a ZF trans instead of the M5R2.

So, I guess my question is how do you like how it drives? I have the same gear ratios and plan on keeping them. How is first and reverse? Do you think you would have issues maneuvering a trailer with your set up?

Also, you have inspired me to go with a serpentine belt set-up; I just have to figure out how my factory A/C will mount up. Perhaps that will be a direct bolt on as well. I've already obtained a 3G alternator and a dual electric fan setup from a Contour for those upgrades.

Great job and I look forward to your response,

Aaron

 

Hey Gary, just so you know, M5R2s have a concentric slave cylinder which means they mount on the inside behind the clutch assembly and doesn't have a release arm. That is one of the downsides of having either an M5R2 or a small block bolt pattern ZF. (And I say downside because if you have problems with the slave, out comes the transmission.) Of course, once you have them bled properly, and I never found this to be difficult when I worked in a shop (just need a good helper), you have a nice clutch feel without having to worry about mechanical linkages binding and such. Less moving parts is always a good thing.

 

you might want to double check that the pivots on you clutch pedal aren't worn and/or that your firewall isn't cracked at the master cylinder. and I have seen one, and only one adjustable pushrod for a hydraulic clutch. however, keep in mind that just because it came sealed doesn't mean that the factory got all the air out!

not a bad tranny (my 88 has one, owned by me almost 5 years now), shifts smooth and drives nice, but i still prefer the np435 (own 2) or the zf5 if your gonna be doing some heavy work. be alot better if first was a bit lower.

 

Another Thank you for the writeup. Nice looking truck to. Thinking about that swap for mine 85 also, have the SROD now. As for the pedal travel, did your master come with an adjustable rod? The one I recently installed in my truck came with one. But like already said, check the pedal pin the rod mounts on for ware and the firewall for cracking because that's a fairly common problem. But beings your was a mechanical clutch it's probably ok.

 

Truck looks good! Good job on the trans swap and writeup. I will be the first to say this about the M5OD trans though... If you have anything higher then a 3.55 rear gear or the truck will be doing more then dragging itself around empty the ZF is a better swap due to the lower 1st and reverse gears.

My '86 has 3.08 rear gears, knowing what I do now, I would have stuck with the NP435 since 5th is mostly useless unless doing 70mph+ in my case, plus the insanely high first/reverse gears and extra clutch wear to go with it. ZF is my recomendation to anyone doing a 5speed swap.

 

Thanks, the '97 Miata has been a great choice for me. That car will be in my posession for years to come. Possible my newborn girl just might be able to drive it someday.


I have heard that many guys like to use the bigger/stronger ZF model. I went for this one because i will not be doing and real heavy hauling or putting it behind any big HP. First gear is kind of a granny gear. muscletruck7379 is right in wishing that 1st gear was a bit lower but the amount of improvement over the SROD is next to incredible, so i guess its a case of application and what a person has been used to. 1st/reverse works well with my 300ci and for a 4x4 would be great for crawling up something. For hauling, it pulls that 16ft trailer without a problem and i will soon be putting my Miata on it to see how that does.

As for the mounts, i grinded off the A/C mounts that were on it from factory. You can pull them off of an Econoline that has factory air and you should bolt right up without a problem. This is awesome, more people need to be taknig care of these older trucks. I don't see enough of them on the road anymore.

Any advise on how to get these things "properly" bled. Do i need to remove it or do it installed on the truck? thanks a lot for your input. it matters.

+1
Also, the firewall i can see is slightly moving but not enough that it seems like it would affect the operation this much. I tried to get the push rod out of the MC last night and it seems to be attached?

Where did you get your MC.


I would have to agree with you. Although, i have 3.55 now and 1st gear is pretter high like you say. How much would 1st be affected by putting 3.08 in the rear like you since you seem to think it is still high at that ratio? Right now, 5th cruises at approx 2250rpm@65 mph and i would love to be able to push 70-75 at this RPM.

And again, thank you for all the response. Most of you, i can tell, have the passion for these trucks that they deserve.

 

When bleeding in the shop, I usually just had a helper in the truck and bled the system in a similar fashion to bleeding brakes. It always worked for me. However, I did find this article on FTE and it seems like an excellent process as well. I will say that bench bleeding anything hydraulic is always a good idea if possible.

Bleeding a Concentric Hydraulic Clutch Set-up .: Articles

Regarding the firewall, I'm going to install the full reinforcement plate available from terrapinmfg.com. Since your truck had a mechanical linkage, it wasn't subjected to the same stresses as a hydraulic setup imposes. Our trucks were designed before hydraulic clutches were popular and because of this, the perpendicular stress loads weren't taken into account. I suggest you pay close attention to your firewall to see if you will need to add the plate. And really, I suggest you just add it for a preventative measure. Here is a link to an FTE thread about firewall reinforcemnt:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tallation.html

Keep me updated on how your truck drives with a loaded trailer, please. It will make a difference regarding my build decision to use the M5R2 or a ZF.

Aaron

 

Sorry to get off topic in your thread, but I can't pm you yet.
I'm really interested in your serp swap. Did you add it to a pre fuelie engine? How hard was it?

Very nice install on the 5sp. I'm in deep envy.

 

That looks like an ex EFI engine, judging from the valve cover shape.

 

As far as the bleeding thing is concerned, you just need to get enough air out of it so you can drive it. Then as you use it and drive it, the rest of the air comes out by itself. No need to worry about a "little bit" still in there.

As far as adjustment, there is none. But some of the replacement slaves come with adjustable input rods that go from the pedal linkage to the slave itself. On my zf swap, I made my own adjustable rod.

I am curious about your swap. You probably don't know since you didn't actually do it, but when they moved the crossmember back one inch, what did the do about the upper crossmembers(the short ones on each side). If they left them off, they cheated and I would install them for good frame strength.

 

I cheaped out and got it at Auto Zone. Not so much by choice but more that they were the only place that had one in stock, and mine was out.

 

Obtaining all the parts was somewhat time consuming since i went to the salvage yard a couple times before i got everything i needed. This is why if you find a good donor vehicle either in the yard or somewhere else you should get all the parts right then and there.

For the serpentine upgrade it was really easy. Found a '95 (i think) econoline and pulled both mounts, balancer, and while you are at it you should just pull the alternator if it looks decent or buy a new one from tuff stuff like i did in black powdercoat, and even the powersteering pump pulley if you can get it off. You can get the pulley elsewhere but depends on how good your donor is looking. Make sure to get the water pump pulley as well. There is going to be a little thinking on your part to make sure everything is the right size. If you leave the a/c pump on then a stock belt should work. I had to go through belts at the autopart store to find the right length after the a/c delete. Napa should be your best friend in this matter. It is all bolt on after that. Later models had electric fans so off the top of my head i can't remember if that later model water pump pulley has the threads on it for the fan clutch or not. But you should be able to figure it out either way.

I should have built the original head but i was still using the truck at the time so i found a later model head off an EFI engine. It has the plugs in it so i didn't worry about that. I also used the valve cover off the efi head as the early model valve cover wont fit. The block was an early model block though, these blocks from my knowledge have not changed and are all interchangeable? Someone correct me if i am wrong. It worked for me.

 

You might be pretty close with the 3.08 gears, I might be running an engine out to someone today, so if I can remember the gps I'll check but 1850 at 60mph in 5th seems to be about where mine sits. You have the 4barrel and such so its possible you will do better with the higher gear set just from the upgrades.

Personally I'm eyeing up the 3.55 diff from the 4x4 the engine/trans came from, maybe even 3.73 or 4.10s

Edit: checked my speed vs. rpms on the highway and at 70mph it sits around 2000-2150 rpm 80mph around 2400 but this is all with 31x10.5/15 A/Ts so things may be different in your case.