Dying engine is never a good sign.... This led me to inspect my '77 F250 Ranger XLT SC TS, and found an exposed wire from the starter to the solenoid. Then inspecting the distributor I found nothing, then went to the sparkplug, my poor truck had four of them fouled out, and being so new to such an old truck, I didnt know the issue till I looked. Well replacing all eight to be safe, she started up like a champ, and ran great, till it died again. This time it was serious, it wouldn't fire. Everything checked out fine, plugs were good, no condensation in the distributor, and the starter is still kicking and running. So.... What is wrong with the truck? I know its electrical, and have narrowed down the the solenoid or the distributor, there is fuel, but no fire... So what is the issue? HAs anyone else ever had this problem before? If so, what do I need to fix? What is the malfunction of my truck?

 

Check the points gap. Should be .017 or so.
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What would I use to check that? I have never had a truck this old and the cars I worked on had MSD type distributors.

 

You would use a feeler gauge set. If you don't you can use a matchbook cover to get them close.

Basically you should have a gap (B) when the points rubbing block (D) is on a high point of the dist cam (E). Here is a description from the "net":

To measure the point gap, you need a set of feeler gauges. Adjusting the point gap is a simple process, but it takes some practice to get the hang of doing it properly. First, make sure the rubbing block is on the high point of one of the cam lobes. If it isn't, you will have to turn the engine a little bit in order to turn the cam.
Once you have the rubbing block on top of a lobe, you can measure the point gap. Loosen the screw that holds the stationary point bracket to the base plate. Not completely, just enough so that you can move the bracket by inserting a screwdriver tip and twisting it Adjustment is a matter of trial and error. Move the stationary point out a bit if it was too close, tighten the holding screw (not too tight), and measure the gap. If it still isn't right, try again. The feeler gauge should have a light drag when the points are properly adjusted.

 

I hate to say it, but never worked with a distributor that had points. it has always been an MDS distributor. I under stand what the points are, but how to fix it made no sense.

 

Sorry comp freaked hence the double post. Anyways my distributor looks nothing like that, I just forgot the actual name of it, but it is a rotary style distributor.

 

Sorry I should have said that is just a representation to show the areas involved. IE: rubbing block and cam lobes.

I don't have one to take a pic of and the only ones I found are small like this one.


You would have 8 lobes.
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His 77 should be Duraspark no points?



pull the Ing module and have it tested at the part store

 

I should add as well it'll burp life every now and then, but then dies right way. So what would that mean?

 

77 model should have electronic ignition (AKA Duraspark) with a control module (or box) on the fenderwell. That box can, after this many years, start to go bad and cause the type of problem you describe. The coil can also do this.
Most parts stores have a machine that can test the module. Remove it, and take it in for testing. Have them run the test several times, as most failures start out as only having problems after the box has heated up.

 

I was going off the title's first word; "Points" ..... You sir are right! no points....

 

Which fenderwell, passenger, or driver?

 

Driver, 3 1/4 bolts two plugs!

 

Alright, well I have to push it tonight, so might as well remove it and head to NAPA right off base. Also it has a spare spot for another battery, any ideas as to why?

 

Second battery boxes were both available factory, or over the counter at the dealer. Lots of "old timers" opted to add one, if it wasn't already there.