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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 12:07 PM
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Which Studs?

okay so im outta luck i gotta find these studs and fast i tried every parts store and hardware no one has the studs in grade 8 at least. kinda stupid if you ask me.
but never the less i was wondering if these would work?

Dorman Products - 329145
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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Google: Hillco Fastener Warehouse,inc. I think you can buy online and have shipped.
Tel: 714 657-7442

You need 14 of each of these: AV09686 3/8-1 SAE 3/8-5/8 USS X 2 overall *(I like to use the 2 1/8" studs if they have them.

9SAE500HD 1/2 SAE Heavy Duty Flat Washer
8SAE310 5/16 SAE Flat Washer Grade 8 Yellow Zinc
838024GC 3/8-24 Grade C Locknut

Coat the coarse threads with anti sieze compound. Get two 3/8 X 24 nuts, screw them on the fine thread end and torque a bit against each other. Then insert into head and tighten with open end wrench 20 lbs torque, approx. Put an open end wrench on each nut, and remove nuts. Repeat 14 x.

Use Mr. Gasket #260 int/exh gasket.



 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Well, first off, which studs are you talking about? The studs that hold the manifolds to the heads? The studs that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold? Some other studs?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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The studs that go into the head for the intake and exhaust. I was talking with my machinist yesterday when I was picking up the break in oil. He told me that grade 5 should be strong enough as long as it's not grade 3. But 5 or better should be fine.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Having had some snap on me, I, personally, wouldn't trust less than Grade 8. But, that's just me.

Your head should take 13 studs.

The only thing that looks off to me with those Dorman ones is ALL the Grade 8 studs I've seen are a gun metal gray, not shiny chrome.

Like this:

 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
Google: Hillco Fastener Warehouse,inc. I think you can buy online and have shipped.
Tel: 714 657-7442

You need 14 of each of these: AV09686 3/8-1 SAE 3/8-5/8 USS X 2 overall *(I like to use the 2 1/8" studs if they have them.

9SAE500HD 1/2 SAE Heavy Duty Flat Washer
8SAE310 5/16 SAE Flat Washer Grade 8 Yellow Zinc
838024GC 3/8-24 Grade C Locknut

Coat the coarse threads with anti sieze compound. Get two 3/8 X 24 nuts, screw them on the fine thread end and torque a bit against each other. Then insert into head and tighten with open end wrench 20 lbs torque, approx. Put an open end wrench on each nut, and remove nuts. Repeat 14 x.

Use Mr. Gasket #260 int/exh gasket.



This should be a sticky!!
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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The photo is exactly what you'll get with the numbers from Hillco.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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call me a little slow but i cant find the studs anywhere on the site. are they listed under screws?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 07:57 AM
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These guys have a little more user friendly site:


3/8-1 Sae 3/8-5/8 Uss X 2 Overall


This (I think) is what we need: (Please correct me if I'm wrong, here)



 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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More info on studs:

 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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Wagon boy I went on there yesterday and 7.48 for one stud seems a little pricey unless it's a box of how ever many
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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Box of 10
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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Why don't you call them? The items I listed for you should cost under $30, plus postage. It is all the best quality possible; even the washers are hardened.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 03:24 PM
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F250 Restorer,

I called Hillco today and he said that the 1/2 heavy duty would be "loose". Is that okay for our application? I've never dealt with rebuilding an engine before my 300.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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Yes, the 1/2" washers will be loose on the 3/8" stud. That is so you can move it a tad to grab the 'ear' of the intake and the flange of the header. Also, there is a smaller washer over the top of the 1/2" one to firmly hold it in place.

The problem is this: The header flange and the intake flange (ear) that the washer tightens against are different thicknesses, so when you tighten the washers they sit crooked. The way I solved the problem was to take the original thick washers, clamp each one with a pair of vise grips, and grind off 1/16" off one side of the washer. That now thinner side of the washer is placed over the thicker flange to compensate so the washer tightens straight and torques evenly. If you go this route, then don't order the washers.

*If you go to junkyard to get the oem thick washers, don't take the efi year ones. They are impossible to remove from the bolts. Good luck.
 
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