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okay so im outta luck i gotta find these studs and fast i tried every parts store and hardware no one has the studs in grade 8 at least. kinda stupid if you ask me.
but never the less i was wondering if these would work?
Coat the coarse threads with anti sieze compound. Get two 3/8 X 24 nuts, screw them on the fine thread end and torque a bit against each other. Then insert into head and tighten with open end wrench 20 lbs torque, approx. Put an open end wrench on each nut, and remove nuts. Repeat 14 x.
Well, first off, which studs are you talking about? The studs that hold the manifolds to the heads? The studs that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold? Some other studs?
The studs that go into the head for the intake and exhaust. I was talking with my machinist yesterday when I was picking up the break in oil. He told me that grade 5 should be strong enough as long as it's not grade 3. But 5 or better should be fine.
Coat the coarse threads with anti sieze compound. Get two 3/8 X 24 nuts, screw them on the fine thread end and torque a bit against each other. Then insert into head and tighten with open end wrench 20 lbs torque, approx. Put an open end wrench on each nut, and remove nuts. Repeat 14 x.
Why don't you call them? The items I listed for you should cost under $30, plus postage. It is all the best quality possible; even the washers are hardened.
I called Hillco today and he said that the 1/2 heavy duty would be "loose". Is that okay for our application? I've never dealt with rebuilding an engine before my 300.
Yes, the 1/2" washers will be loose on the 3/8" stud. That is so you can move it a tad to grab the 'ear' of the intake and the flange of the header. Also, there is a smaller washer over the top of the 1/2" one to firmly hold it in place.
The problem is this: The header flange and the intake flange (ear) that the washer tightens against are different thicknesses, so when you tighten the washers they sit crooked. The way I solved the problem was to take the original thick washers, clamp each one with a pair of vise grips, and grind off 1/16" off one side of the washer. That now thinner side of the washer is placed over the thicker flange to compensate so the washer tightens straight and torques evenly. If you go this route, then don't order the washers.
*If you go to junkyard to get the oem thick washers, don't take the efi year ones. They are impossible to remove from the bolts. Good luck.