Replacing oil pan

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Apr 11, 2012 | 05:06 PM

Monster-4

Thread Starter

Logistics Pro

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 3,974

Likes: 17

From: Millersburg, OH

Replacing oil pan

I need to replace my oil pan since it has a large dent in line with the stabilizer bar. I think when I lifted by engine a few years ago to do headers I didn't tighten the bolts on the mounts down enough and the engine slipped down low enough to come in contact with the stabilizer bar.

Anyone replace the oil pan with the engine in place? Looks like it's possible but want confirmation before I start in. Any advice or tips on doing it if so?

Apr 12, 2012 | 07:11 AM

krewat

FTE Leadership Emeritus

Joined: Jul 2002

Posts: 42,561

Likes: 421

From: Long Island USA

That's a tough one. I think you need to drop the pan, disconnect the oil pick-up tube and then remove the pan. Putting it back together can be a pain, I'd bet. Best I can say is lift that sucker as high as you can go

Apr 12, 2012 | 06:38 PM

mwsF250

Postmaster

Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 2,564

Likes: 11

From: Wayyy NoCal, USA

Wish I could help, but glad I can't!

If I could, that means I had to do it....
On my nephew's diesel, it was a DEFINITE pull the engine project, and a PITA... But I agree, it sure looks like it will come out of there on the V10. Maybe have to loosen engine mounts and hoist her a bit?

Jul 30, 2014 | 01:19 PM

Monster-4

Thread Starter

Logistics Pro

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 3,974

Likes: 17

From: Millersburg, OH

The dent in my oil pan was bad enough that drain plug would not seal completely and after living with an annoying oil leak for several years now I decided to replace the oil pan. Below is what I did to replace the pan.

Tools:
Various 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" sockets, extensions and wrenches
Various length 1/4" and 3/8" wobble extensions and universals
Hose clamp wrenches
Pliers, screwdrivers
2 floor jacks or a floor jack and bottle jack (You could probably use one jack if you do things in a different order)
2x4 cut to length to lift engine
2 wood blocks about 2" tall and about 4"-6" long by 3 1/2" wide to hold engine up. I used two 1X4's and some thin plywood sheeting cut to size

Parts:
Ford engine oil pan <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w

oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

ontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w

ontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority

9; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";} </style> <![endif]-->- part number: F81Z6675DA
Ford engine oil pan gasket - part number: F81Z6675DA or Fel-Pro part number: OS30720R (Note: I believe the gasket is reusable but I replaced it anyway)
Oil pan pickup tube gasket - I don't have a part number because I didn't realize it needed to be replaced! See the picture below for part number.
Fel-Pro throttle body to spacer gasket - part number: 61142
Fel-Pro spacer to manifold gasket - part number: 61143
Permatex Ultra Black RTV sealant
engine coolant
engine oil
oil filter

Removal
1.) Removed the stabilizer bar. I removed the bolts from the down links to the bar and then the 4 bolts that hold the bar to the axle.

2.) Disconnect the oxygen sensors and remove Y-pipe from headers/exhaust manifold. I also disconect the cat to muffler pipe from the muffler but I had an after market exhaust that I just clamped and didn't weld. You can also remove the three bolts from the cat to y-pipe but mine were so rusted and deteriorated that I found it easier to just lower the y-pipe, cat and cat to muffler pipe down and set out of the way best as possible.

3.) Remove the two bolts from the rear transmission mount.

4.) Remove steering stabilizer. This is need to lift the engine.

5.) Drain engine coolant from radiator.

6.) Drain engine oil from oil pan.

7.) In engine bay remove lug wrench hold down, lug wrench and tire wench extensions.

8.) Remove the three bolts holding radiator degas bottle. You can keep the hose connected and just set the bottle out of the way.

9.) Remove the two bolts at top of cooling fan shroud.

10.) Make sure the fan shroud pops free from tabs at bottom of radiator. When you lift the engine the shroud should be free to lift with the cooling fan.

11.) Remove upper radiator hose from the radiator.

12.) Remove vacuum tubes from the air filter to throttle body intake tube, loosen the two band clamps and remove intake tube.

13.) Remove plug from TPS.

14.) Remove 4 bolts from throttle body and remove throttle body.

15.) Remove the throttle cable and cruise control cable. It took me a bit to figure out how to remove the cruise cable but it just pops upwards.

16.) Remove the vacuum line from PCV. You can try to remove the line from the throttle body spacer but my was pretty well melted on so I just removed it on the PVC side.

17.) Remove the vacuum line from the back of the throttle body spacer that goes to EVAP and the vacuum lines from the brake booster and ESOF/HVAC system on passanger side of throttle body spacer.

18.) Remove the two bolts from throttle/cruise cable bracket and move it out of way.

19.) Remove plug from IAC.

20.) Remove 4 bolts from spacer and remove spacer. Be careful not get dirt down into the intake manifold. Make sure to cover manifold with a towel or tape.

21.) From below engine use a 2X4 cut to lenght from your floor jack to bottom of engine block in front of crank (this is why you need to remove the steering stabilizer). You'll be jacking on oil pan lip where it mates to the front of the engine block. I blocked up my floor jack so it didn't kick out. You can also use a bottle jack. Lift the 2X4 so it holds the engine up but doesn't yet lift it.

22.) Remove the 4 nuts from the engine mounts on the engine cradle.

23.) Using another jack and block of wood lift on the two bolts on the transmission mount. You'll only be able to lift it about 1" to 2" inches until the wood block hits the cross member but lift it as much as you can without lifting the truck. I then blocked my jack to make sure it wouldn't sag.

24.) Lift the engine with the first floor jack or bottle jack. You'll need to lift it enough to get the 2" thick wood blocks between the engine mount and cradle. Place the wood block between the two bolts of the engine mount so it doesn't slid down. One word of warning the transmission tube (if you have an auto tranny) will hit the cowling and have to bend pretty far. Mine creaked but as far as I can tell never cracked but keep an eye on it has you raise the engine.

25.) Remove lower of the two coolant line from oil cooler. It will ease access to the oil pan bolt in that area.

26.) Remove the engine oil pan bolts. This takes a long time. I had to use various wobble extensions and universals. You'll have to fight a bit with the transmission cooler lines on the passenger side but I was able to push them out of the way without removing anything. Once all the bolts are free lower the pan onto the cradle but do not attempt to remove it yet.

27.) Remove the two bolts on the oil pick up tube at the front of the engine where it goes into the the engine block. If you accidental drop the bolts don't worry about them. Just remember to fish them out when you get the oil pan out.

28.) This is tough but you have blindly follow the oil pick-up tube back to where it curves down. There will be a bracket that then goes up. Follow the bracket up and there will be a bolt that is connected to a stud/riser. The bolt needs to be removed. I suggest you use a wrench. You may be able to get a 1/4" ratchet and socket in but I used a ratcheting wrench.

29.) Once all three bolts that hold the oil pick-up tube are out free the tube from the engine block and let it fall into the oil pan.

30.) Remove the pan! It might take a bit of finesse but I got it out without to much of a problem. I had to fight with the y-pipe being sort of in the way more than anything.

31.) Remove the old oil seal (if you decide to replace it) and clean up the engine block being careful not to gouge or scratch the block. Make sure the mating surface is oil free.

Assembly
I'm not going to go step by step as assembly is reverse of removal but I will include some tips and things to not do that I did.

1.) Don't forget to replace the oil pickup tube gasket. Both the Ford shop manual and Haynes manual say to replace the oil pick-up tube gasket. I guess I skipped over this part when I read both to figure out what parts I would need. I only realized that it was not reusable after I had almost everything back together. I didn't have the will power to tear everything apart again. I just hope it doesn't cause an issue later on down the road. The gasket list for about $7 so it's a cheap to replace.

2.) When putting the oil pan back in, place the pick-up tube in the pan in the proper orientation and then rest the pan on the cross member. Place the oil pan seal in to place on top of the oil pan. It won't stay in place but make sure it's at least in front of the pick-up tube. Insert the pick-up tube into the engine block.
Get the two bolts at the front of the tube started and tightened about 75% of the way. Do not tighten them down yet. Now for the tricky part. Get the hanger bolt in the back started. I got lucky and managed to get it started right away but you have oil all over hands and bolt so it can be slippery. Tighten the hang bolt all the way down. There is no way to get a torque wrench in there so you have to set to fingers to goodntight mode. The torque spec is 18 lb-ft.
DO NOT forget to go back and tighten the two bolts at the front of the pick-up tube to 89 lb-in. I got almost all the pan bolts back in and realized I forgot to tighten these two bolts. Had to take them all back out lower the pan and tighten the tube bolts up.

3.) Before putting the pan up into position put some RTV sealant on all 4 corners of the gasket on the engine block side. Tighten the pan bolts to 15 lb-ft in the sequence below. I used a torque wrench on some of the bolts and I used the goodntight meter on others.

4.) For the throttle body and throttle spacer DO NOT remove and discard the rubber gaskets. Both the Ford shop manual and Haynes manual say these gaskets are not reusable. I purchased the Fel-Pro gaskets 61142 and 61143 and removed the rubber gaskets like the shop manuals said. However I didn't have much faith the Fel-Pro gaskets would actual seal so I kept the original rubber gaskets.
After I reassembled everything and started the truck up it idled poorly and acted like it was overly advanced on timing. Suspecting the throttle body and spacer gaskets I took them back off and put the rubber gaskets back in and reused the Fel-Pro gaskets. Torqued all the 4 mounting bolts in the riser and throttle body to 80 lb-in and everything it running properly.

5.) Don't forget to put on a new oil filter and fill the engine with oil and new coolant.

Jul 31, 2014 | 11:03 AM

northwindone

More Turbo

Joined: Jul 2010

Posts: 535

Likes: 13

From: California High Desert

Great write-up!

Jul 31, 2014 | 12:02 PM

speakerfritz

Hotshot

Joined: Jul 2013

Posts: 14,237

Likes: 2,179

sounds like a lot of work...is it leaking? If not...why bother replacing it? If it is leaking...maybe MIG or TIG welding cracks or holes?

Jul 31, 2014 | 08:21 PM

Monster-4

Thread Starter

Logistics Pro

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 3,974

Likes: 17

From: Millersburg, OH

The stabilizer bar went right a crossed the drain plug and dented the pan enough that the plug did not seal well and had a minor leak. There was no real easy way to repair it without removing the pan and if I was going to remove the pan then I going to put a new one in. Any repair would be questionable anyway.