Guys my rear end (on the truck) started making noise and i stopped near the house and it was leaking grease and loose and smoking, I mean real loose like 1/8 - 1/4 " gap back there, I searched forums but not really helping me so far. Can I just tighten that yoke nut up or need I take it in the a shop? I dropped driveshaft and man soooo loose. LOST and wife is already on me azz ;( STOCK REAREND.

 

What kind of noise? Humming or clunking? Id take the rear cover off before you tighten anything up and see if any teeth are broken on the ring gear. If its loose and you've been driving I bet your damaging the pinion bearing and it will most likely need to be replaced.

Its not hard to rebuild but you just need to know what everything needs to be torqued to.

 

No popping, no vibration really. It was like it was just rubbing because it was so loose. It drove fine i just heard a light clanking but was eratic not like something broke. It was smoking hot as well.

 

Ok vibration, oil leaks bad too much slack and nut is tight, need to rebuild rear end im guessing. Never done that before.....

 

Which one of these should I need. Here is what I have found, If anyone has a better place please post.
89 1989 Ford Bronco Differential Rebuild Kit - Driveline and Axles - Motive Gear | Drivewire.com

 

Ok better>? 8.8" Rear Axle Master Rebuild Kit

 

Well from my own experience Ive had my yoke not tight enough, basically whats happening is the drive shaft is gonna push and pull on it so thats probably what the noise is from. The pinion bearing is probably going to get warn even faster and you'll hear them start to hum.

Before you spend anything. I would take the cover off, drain the oil and check the ring gear and pinion for damage, see if theres any metal in the oil. If not, clean the cover up put some High Temp RTV silicone and put it back on... I think the housing takes 5quarts of gear oil and if you have a limited slip you need to add 4ounces of friction modifier.

I dont remember what the pinion nut is supposed to be torqued to...usually theres a whole process when tightening it.
(Dont do this. I tightened mine to 200ft/lbs of torque, this crushes the crush sleeve. Ive read before your only supposed to do it 140-160ft/lbs. When redoing the rear end before you put the differential in your supposed set the preload,)
Check this video out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8APYO2sZyJU



But if you do tighten it back up and over time you start to hear humming from the rear end I guarantee it will be the bearings.

When I did my 8.8 I replaced the differential to so I needed new carrier bearings...so thats what I bought
8.8" Rear Axle Master Rebuild Kit

This is the pinion bearing that goes onto the pinion gear
8.8" TIMKEN Inner Pinion Bearing & Race

 

Ok Ill get on that Friday after dentist, Ill post results. It is leaking where the yoke goes in, still having a 1/8" gap where oil is coming out, Ill post results again, manana! Thanks.

 

Ok cool. Hope it turn out good. Also if you still have your manual check the torque specs for that pinion nut, it might tell ya.
I was hoping someone else with experience would speak up...

When I did mine I did it the "street mechanic" way, (I also wouldnt recommend doing this, but I put the pinion gear in the freezer and took a torch to the bearing to get it on...normally they are pressed on, most you would spend for that to be done is probably 10-20$)

 

O lawl lol, just got home heading out to check her out.

 

OMG results. stuff all in rearend, bearings shot. Here is a link to picture of part of what was in rearend, if anyone can post this for me I would greatly appriciate that! Im lost wtf to do now, nvr redone this and its stuck in my driveway

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - likwidsukr's Album: Big Black - Picture

 

 

OMG Might just be cheaper and def easier to find a used rearend. Look at this............

 

Holy crapp..

Ok first im gonna do a walk through on how I took mine apart from memory...
Jack the rear end up put it on jack stands remove tires....In that second picture at the top where those 2 bolts are from left to right going horizontal...theres one on the left and right side...those are the first to come out...Lay a rag down and put the left on the left right on right second...Theres a big pin that goes straight through the differential with a small screw that holds it in place...you may have to rotate the diff until you see it I think it was a 7/32 bolt, cant remember though... Once that bolt is out push each axle in as far as possible you will see them go towards the middle of the diff a little bit....at the ends of each axle is a small C clip. Those need to come off, use your fingers and the help of a flat head to get them off...it shouldnt be to difficult. Once those are out I would pull out each axle and check the splines...Make sure you have rags to wipe them down from the oil...It may be a 31spline but check make sure they arent stripped....once the axles are out you can put the whole diff out it will take some force to get it out...you will have the 2 carrier bearings on the each end of the diff with the crush sleeves that will come off.

Thats basically what you gotta do to take it out...

If the Ring gear is still in good condition no chunks missing or crack I believe there was a bunch of bolts that holds in on so unbolt it and you may need to use a brass hammer to knock it off.

I would buy the master over haul gear kit through broncograveyard, thats what I bought and I got everything I needed, new carrier bearings all the shims and the pinion bearings...

I bought a used Limited Slip differential from ebay out of a 97 Explorer for like 80$ and it was in great condition...Id check to see what there is.

If you plan on doing this yourself total cost will probably be $250+
Through a shop you would have to get quotes but I believe it would be about $700-1000+

For the pinion gear which will be the only thing left in the back of the housing you need to dc the driveshaft it should be a 1/2" 12point 12mm socket...unbolt the pinion nut and I think then the yoke should come off and you'll see the whole back end of the pinion gear...Then I believe we took a brass hammer to hammer it through...You may need someone on the other end to grab it...


Taking it apart is the easier part put putting it back together you will need some patience and time...The wost part will be setting the preload... I would look up some videos on youtube on an 8.8 rebuild also.

 

I think I have some internal gear issues as well, look at last picture they are huge score marks, plus i drove it a mile like that, chance housing is damaged. ANYONE HAVE A 3.55 REAR DIFFERENTIAL LAYING AROUND?