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Okay, since we're laying bets, I'll bet on the STC fitting. I say that because the smaller pipes and plugs seldom can leak so badly that it won't start at all. The STC has much greater leak capacity.
But we do agree, that you want to fix it all at once. If you don't, you're just dancing in the minefield.
Alrighty, now i'm getting somewhere! Few Qs...what are these parts you all speak of? Stand pipes, dummy plugs and stc fitting? Are all of them located fairly close in proximity to each other?
What does the icp number mean...is that fuel pressure or oil pressure? I updated my SG to update "fast" so I will watch it again see what it reads.
What am I looking at long term prognosis, I will get it done ASAP but that may be a few Weeks, can I keep rolling, just maybe having to play with it a little on cold starts?
Okay, since we're laying bets, I'll bet on the STC fitting. I say that because the smaller pipes and plugs seldom can leak so badly that it won't start at all. The STC has much greater leak capacity.
But we do agree, that you want to fix it all at once. If you don't, you're just dancing in the minefield.
I thought this was just an Extended Crank before it would RUN
Has it Developed into a NO START Period????
A bad STC fitting usually is a No Start
Bad Dummey Plugs or standpipes is normaly extended crank till Running the way I understand things
I thought this was just an Extended Crank before it would RUN
Has it Developed into a NO START Period????
A bad STC fitting usually is a No Start
Bad Dummey Plugs or standpipes is normaly extended crank till Running the way I understand things
No sir, it starts after a while, a good while....just done it twice in the last couple Weeks however. Today I got it to start by cycling the key a few times, playing witb it...previous couple Weeks, it did ok
Take a Look back under your turbo at the Wires that go to the IPR are they Cooked or Melted anything like that??
Maybe the standpipes or Dummey plugs are just starting to go out IDK but when these do go bad its usually a Hard start everytime. I guess they could just be starting to go Bad IDK
So definatly check the IPR wireing harness out good as its an Oven Back there
Gene, it is high pressure motor oil. There is no high pressure fuel on these engines.
It will get worse, you can bet on it. A leak always gets worse, right?
Right now you have a leak, but it is leaking slower than what the high pressure oil pump can put out. Just takes a long while to build up. Once it starts leaking faster than the high pressure oil pump can put out, then it is a full no-start.
Standpipes and dummy plugs are accessed under the valve covers. STC fitting is on the pump, in the valley, under the turbo.
Take a Look back under your turbo at the Wires that go to the IPR are they Cooked or Melted anything like that??
Maybe the standpipes or Dummey plugs are just starting to go out IDK but when these do go bad its usually a Hard start everytime. I guess they could just be starting to go Bad IDK
So definatly check the IPR wireing harness out good as its an Oven Back there
Right I would definitely call it random! The day I started this thread is when it first happened, and it just cropped up again today. I will say that on both occasions the truck sat for about two days...when hot it starts right up pretty much. when hot sometime it starts faster than other times when hot, not sure if its supposed to do that or not or if that has anything to do with this problem.
As far as the wiring harness, do I have to remove the turbo to take a look?
Gene, it is high pressure motor oil. There is no high pressure fuel on these engines.
It will get worse, you can bet on it. A leak always gets worse, right?
Right now you have a leak, but it is leaking slower than what the high pressure oil pump can put out. Just takes a long while to build up. Once it starts leaking faster than the high pressure oil pump can put out, then it is a full no-start.
Standpipes and dummy plugs are accessed under the valve covers. STC fitting is on the pump, in the valley, under the turbo.
Ugh, def does not sound like DIY and like a good 2 or 3 grand bill from the dealer, smh
Whats a couple grand when your an Attorney Gene LOL Just Kidden
So sometimes after it sits a Day or 2 it will start right up and other days it will take a Long crank to start and run
Hey, I've got student loans and the dogg-on note to pay on this thing, lol. But you are right in what you said there. And long crank is me trying for a couple minutes. What I do is like I used to do when my FICM was going out. Cycle the ignition on and off a couple times, crank it about 4 secs. I try not to just crank forever to avoid killiing the batt. eventually it started. Other times, it just starts up, lol
I hear ya Iv been the Banks Bit@! for to long now to. just about out of Debt though
I have AN Uncle thats an Oral Surgeon on his good days he can bring in 20K a DAY Boys
there is No Balance to the world
I can see making extra for schooling and stuff but there should be a Line here IMO
Yea! See once I get rid of the debt, I will be alright, heck I wouldnt even be asking yall. Just drop it to Ford tell them to "fix it and call me when you are done" and be done with it. Still working my way up though, haha. I have seen a few diff things bounced around with this problem...is this something the dealer can pin-point? I want to avoid the whole "tossing parts at it".
next time it does this you may want to stop after the first try to crank it. pop hood an unplug your ICP sensor. this fools the PCM into thinkin that its getting the 500 PSI reading it need to turn on your injectors. if it fires right up after you do that, i wood say your ICP sensor is begining to go bad. if it doesnt, either your IPR is going bad or you have a oil leak in your HPOP system somewhere.
i did this before i got my SGII when my truck wouldnt start. mine ended up bein my IPR valve had gone bad.
next time it does this you may want to stop after the first try to crank it. pop hood an unplug your ICP sensor. this fools the PCM into thinkin that its getting the 500 PSI reading it need to turn on your injectors. if it fires right up after you do that, i wood say your ICP sensor is begining to go bad. if it doesnt, either your IPR is going bad or you have a oil leak in your HPOP system somewhere.
i did this before i got my SGII when my truck wouldnt start. mine ended up bein my IPR valve had gone bad.
Not sure if this is really relevant but I thought I might mention it here because I have never really had this happen. After an unseasonably cold evening in Atlanta last night (50s) an hour ago with a good "cold" engine I chose to try to start the truck see what would happen. I let the glow plugs do what it is that they do and cranked it. The truck started almost IMMEDIATELY! There almost no "build period" as it started with a second or two. WT was at about 57 when I tried to start....does this have any relevance here?
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