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IDI temperature spikes pulling hills

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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #16  
hairyboxnoogle's Avatar
hairyboxnoogle
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes, but I thought the same thing about the Tstat, so I changed mine. There was absolutely no change in cooling. Yes, I used the Motorcraft Tstat. It made no difference. Next I had my radiator flow tested, and it checked out O.K. My next step was to try the fan clutch, and it was like night and day. Before, I would reach the high end of the gauge when pulling on a level grade, and it would rise from there when I started up even the slightest hill, After, cool as the other side of the pillow. I could only get it to run hotter by pushing it hard uphill. I can say with absolute certainty that the fan clutch is still effective over 35 MPH, at least while pulling. I was a doubter also, but I have seen the results of a properly functioning fan clutch. I would drop the dime on one if you can't hear and feel yours kick in Boots.

BTW, I am not saying, that a new Tstat is a bad idea. It gave me piece of mind if nothing else. FYI. give yourself a little extra time to replace it. It is in a mother of a place on this motor. Its not just a 2 bolt R&R. Yank the radiator and fan assembly to get to it, then serp. belt and the alternator mount. Fun stuff!

Good luck.

Mac.
I get what your saying about the T-stat, but mine was actually shot, and i knowed it, so since i was replacing i put the good one in. If its not broke dont fix it. As long as my truck stays cool and the kool-aid in the cooler i dont care what brand of t-stat is in there.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
i was at 15k (ish) lbs combined gross yesterday,it was 40-45ish degree's and i left my winter grill cover on and she had no problems keeping under 240.
another 10 degrees warmer out,i wouldn't have gotten away with that one i doubt.
What is your temp without the grill cover on?

Originally Posted by joshofalltrades
once your speed is past 30-ish, the fan is useless anyway, as the wind over the radiator is more than a fan would pull over it. the fan does the most good in stop-and-go traffic, and when just stopped. but even climbing a steep hill at 35, there's plenty of airflow a fan isn't going to make a difference, but water flow sure will!
I'm just going to echo what someone else already briefly said. This is completely wrong.

I've always been skeptical of the electric fans being put on these. I know a few people have done it with self proclaimed success, but I see no reason for it.

These electric fan combo's cannot push more air than a properly functioning stock setup.

I use the Hayden HD clutch (much bigger than stock) with the symmetrical fan. I have towed cross country through the biggest passes in America, in the dead of summer grossing out @ 15k, and I recently towed 18k with the new engine pulling decent grades. I never seen my water temp over 225* on the last truck.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:18 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by NMB2

I've always been skeptical of the electric fans being put on these. I know a few people have done it with self proclaimed success, but I see no reason for it.

These electric fan combo's cannot push more air than a properly functioning stock setup.
Im thinkin the E-fan crowd did the conversion to save a little power and noise for the most part. Maybe even some for cost, those clutches arent cheap for whatever reason, just done one on a 7.5 at work and its almost identical to the 7.3 except costs half as much. Me personally, im going to look into e-fans simply to hopefully make some more room to shove the radiator back a good 3" or so.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:43 PM
  #19  
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Talking about the T-stat not the fan clutch. Rifle was asking why pull the radiator, but I like the room to work.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:52 PM
  #20  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by NMB2
What is your temp without the grill cover on?



I'm just going to echo what someone else already briefly said. This is completely wrong.

I've always been skeptical of the electric fans being put on these. I know a few people have done it with self proclaimed success, but I see no reason for it.

These electric fan combo's cannot push more air than a properly functioning stock setup.

I use the Hayden HD clutch (much bigger than stock) with the symmetrical fan. I have towed cross country through the biggest passes in America, in the dead of summer grossing out @ 15k, and I recently towed 18k with the new engine pulling decent grades. I never seen my water temp over 225* on the last truck.
just 195-200 without the winter cover on.
the e-fans don't really do much this time of year if the grill is open.just in traffic if im in running around town a bit,or a few secs on the hills of course.
how high would it have gotten on a large hill w/ current 40-45ish degree's @ 15k gross wihtout the winter cover......it depends really.i have an adjustable control in the cab.if i want,i could just keep it as 195-200 i suppose if i turned it up so the fans spin early enough.but being the hypermiller i am,i just let 'er run whatever she wants as long as it's under 240.

well,the reason i went with the e-fans was for fuel economy reasons and so i didn't get bogged down on the hills when it locked.
my stock never worked,it's just iv read from others that you feel a loss of performance when they lock.i didn't want any part of that with a 130ish hp engine. as is,iwith this weight and Maine hills,she's slowing down to 40ish (still 45 if its not a real steep one) mph in 2nd and reeving 3k+.so rather than toss a mechanical on it,i put the e-fans on.if i lost 20 hp uphill gone to cooling,she'd probably be down 30-35mph lol i dunno?
that's why iv always been curious to see someone put their truck on a dyno,and run without the fan,with the fan unlocked and then with one locked up.then we'd all know for sure.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 11:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by akamacgyver
Talking about the T-stat not the fan clutch. Rifle was asking why pull the radiator, but I like the room to work.
Oh oh got ya... ya i ended up pulling the alternator and FF bracket when i did mine.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #22  
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well, in contrast to my earlier statement about the fan being useless at moderate to high speeds, i think a fan clutch might be in my future. weighing 8k in the winter, the gage often rides on the "A" of "normal", and last summer when i was towing a jeep across the state, i had to keep the speed down to keep the gage from pegging out. i've never heard my fan clutch kick in. that was before i changed the radiator, which was leaking and original. i changed the rad about the time the weather started getting cool, so i'm not too sure if the drop from excessive to just high was a result of the weather or the new rad.

i'm also thinking of getting some real gages so i can say 240* or whatever instead of "A" for my temp.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 01:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
So I had 20klbs on a Gooseneck trailer...and I pulled it all the way to Billings MT....is this too much for these IDI's? I could only go 55 mph and 4th gear was just about useless...i screamed in 3rd the whole way....I crossed a scale at 26k combined....This was in the red/black 84....
I hauled a 30K lb log skidder (near 40K combined) over 30 miles from one job to another with my truck. For how heavy it was, the truck pulled pretty good, but stopping was the real adventure with no trailer brakes.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #24  
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Josh, my '87 motorhome, the temp gauge sits in the middle at cruising speed, and my real gauge reads 180*

In big hills, or the desert, I've seen the dash gauge hit A-L and my real gauge was sitting around 210*


It's never ever been over 210 since I have my real gauge, and new fan clutch.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #25  
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haven't worked my ol girl really other than small furniture but climbing up hill and getting into it... the highest temp i have ever seen (coolant temp) is 195 and oil temp at 230
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
your 1lb shy of requiring a CDL too fyi.
You don't really know that.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:55 PM
  #27  
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by Crete
You don't really know that.
well,looking up when a CDL is required, you appear to be correct.
the law does say when 26,001 lb a CDL is required.however it does specifically say when "for hire" (or other requirements.)
that's kind of scarey isn't it.so the average guy can load up as heavy has he wants to run his own property around on a regular license lol.
doesn't sound very safe to me.i know if i wanted to tow such heavy weight,id want the required safety knowledge (that i know i have no clue about) so i didn't hurt anyone,regardless of what i was towing.
Commercial driver's license - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
MONTANA CDL TEST-

im shocked to see the law reads this way.i had always thought 26k+ meant = CDL required without exception.doesn't appear to be the case according to how its written.
so in short,your right.i don't know that.i stand corrected.thank you.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
that's kind of scarey isn't it.so the average guy can load up as heavy has he wants to run his own property around on a regular license lol.
doesn't sound very safe to me.i know if i wanted to tow such heavy weight,id want the required safety knowledge (that i know i have no clue about) so i didn't hurt anyone,regardless of what i was towing.
Don't you haul heavy loads for a living? It isn't much different the heavier you go. The CDL testing covers pretrips and the obvious about stopping distances and manueverability. And they give you a basic driving test. What they don't teach is common sense, and what they can't teach is experience.

Having a CDL doesn't mean that you will have any knowledge. There are plenty of fresh out of driving school drivers that I wouldn't let within 50 feet of a truck I owned.

Jason
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #29  
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I'm a truck mechanic who decided it would be benefical to have a CDL. It took me 15 days to get one.

Step 1: Get medical card (simple physical)
Step 2: Take test at DMV to aquire learner's permit
Step 3: After holding the learner's permit for the requisite 2 weeks, take driving test at
a DOT approved testing facility (the local bus company).
Step 4: pass test
Step 5: Smile for the camera.

Now I believe there's a minimum 40 hours of classroom time to get one. I squeaked by a few months before that.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by therifleman556

Now I believe there's a minimum 40 hours of classroom time to get one.
Nope............
 
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