2004 6.0 advice needed
#1
2004 6.0 advice needed
Hey guys i just bought a 2004 lariat crew cab with a 6.0 in it with about 200,000 miles on it. i got it pretty cheap and am planning on only having it for a short period of time until i finish work on my main truck, which might be up to 6 months.
My question is it has 200k on it and runs pretty good, but it does smoke a little blue smoke, has kinda a rough idle some of the time, and cranks over about 3 seconds before it starts, i did change out the oil and fuel filters an put in some hot shots secret oil additives.
As of right now the truck looks completely stock, so i am wondering if i should just leave it alone and drive it the way it is, or start trying to fix some of the issues with the 6.0, like egr, injectors, or ficm?
Would an oasis report show what parts have been put into the pickup at the dealership?
I also need to get the code for the keyless entry, can i get the code any way other than takin it in to the dealer?
Sorry for all the questions, but am kinda on the fence if 200k is too many miles to start sticking abunch of money into this pickup. Thanks for any help you might have.
My question is it has 200k on it and runs pretty good, but it does smoke a little blue smoke, has kinda a rough idle some of the time, and cranks over about 3 seconds before it starts, i did change out the oil and fuel filters an put in some hot shots secret oil additives.
As of right now the truck looks completely stock, so i am wondering if i should just leave it alone and drive it the way it is, or start trying to fix some of the issues with the 6.0, like egr, injectors, or ficm?
Would an oasis report show what parts have been put into the pickup at the dealership?
I also need to get the code for the keyless entry, can i get the code any way other than takin it in to the dealer?
Sorry for all the questions, but am kinda on the fence if 200k is too many miles to start sticking abunch of money into this pickup. Thanks for any help you might have.
#3
Here is the post on finding the Door Entry code:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ypad-code.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ypad-code.html
You will have to release the compartment on the right side of the steering wheel in your dash. Then there will be some insulation that you will have to push to the side. There will be a little black box on the firewall with a 5 digit number. I believe the number is printed on a white label. This is the factory code. Once you have that, you can enter it in then press the 1-2 and 3-4 buttons at the same time then enter in your own code. The truck will lock then unlock if you've done it right. Oh yeah - you have to do each step within 5 seconds of each other for it to work.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...icle-post.html
"There are three ways to find the code. One is a lot easier than the other and much less work if you have a good eye and great flashlight. There are some Excursions, F250 and F350s that have a different wiring system.
The first location to look is just above the right front kick panel; the RAP module is black in color with the numbers on the front (the same as the white module). If you look above the kick panel you can see it quite clearly without taking anything apart. If it is not at this location please follow the next step.
This part is not hard to do. You will need to remove the front cover under the steering wheel that says fuse box. (It has 4 plastic screws to remove) under the dash, the five (5) digit code is on the cream/white box behind the radio, look to the top right of the open fuse box cover through the wires. (towards the fire wall look through where my finger is pointing). At the back firewall, look for a 5 digit code on a sticker on a cream/white box. This is not easy but if you try every angle I promise it will appear don't forget to use a very powerful flashlight if you want to see it.
Note: The RAP module sometimes is covered by insulation making it almost impossible to see.
It is located on the firewall behind the radio just below the windshield.
The third way is a more time consuming job because you have to remover the stereo.
Once you do, look to the rear you'll be able to see the 5 digit code very easy. This process can take 2-10 minutes."
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.c...lly/702399.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ypad-code.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ypad-code.html
You will have to release the compartment on the right side of the steering wheel in your dash. Then there will be some insulation that you will have to push to the side. There will be a little black box on the firewall with a 5 digit number. I believe the number is printed on a white label. This is the factory code. Once you have that, you can enter it in then press the 1-2 and 3-4 buttons at the same time then enter in your own code. The truck will lock then unlock if you've done it right. Oh yeah - you have to do each step within 5 seconds of each other for it to work.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...icle-post.html
"There are three ways to find the code. One is a lot easier than the other and much less work if you have a good eye and great flashlight. There are some Excursions, F250 and F350s that have a different wiring system.
The first location to look is just above the right front kick panel; the RAP module is black in color with the numbers on the front (the same as the white module). If you look above the kick panel you can see it quite clearly without taking anything apart. If it is not at this location please follow the next step.
This part is not hard to do. You will need to remove the front cover under the steering wheel that says fuse box. (It has 4 plastic screws to remove) under the dash, the five (5) digit code is on the cream/white box behind the radio, look to the top right of the open fuse box cover through the wires. (towards the fire wall look through where my finger is pointing). At the back firewall, look for a 5 digit code on a sticker on a cream/white box. This is not easy but if you try every angle I promise it will appear don't forget to use a very powerful flashlight if you want to see it.
Note: The RAP module sometimes is covered by insulation making it almost impossible to see.
It is located on the firewall behind the radio just below the windshield.
The third way is a more time consuming job because you have to remover the stereo.
Once you do, look to the rear you'll be able to see the 5 digit code very easy. This process can take 2-10 minutes."
http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.c...lly/702399.jpg
#7
Thanks for the welcome, and i think that since i saved a bunch of money with finding the door lock code and not getting the most recent ecm update, i will purchase a scan gauge ll to check the ficm voltage. I am leaning towards ficm due to the fact the pickup had two dead batterys when it was repo'ed and would not take a charge and when i picked it up the bank put in one new battery to get it running so i could take it home.
I think with the scan gauge i can check out a few things just to see where everything is running currently.
Thanks again
I think with the scan gauge i can check out a few things just to see where everything is running currently.
Thanks again
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#8
#9
Just a little update, i pulled the codes, and came up with several, so i cleared them and drove it and the following returned.
p0269 cylinder 3 contribution
p0401 Insufficiant egr
p0404 egr recirc. malufunction/ performance
p0611 FICM
p01335 egr postion sensor
So it looks like my ficm might be no good, i think i will still check it with a volt meter.
It also looks like the egr valve is stuck, i think i will put a egr delete kit in it. Any particular brand better than the others?
Other than that i am hoping the p0269 code is caused by the ficm, if not i might need a new injector.
If there is anything else that these codes might be caused by, or i should look into i would appreciate any help you might have. Thanks
p0269 cylinder 3 contribution
p0401 Insufficiant egr
p0404 egr recirc. malufunction/ performance
p0611 FICM
p01335 egr postion sensor
So it looks like my ficm might be no good, i think i will still check it with a volt meter.
It also looks like the egr valve is stuck, i think i will put a egr delete kit in it. Any particular brand better than the others?
Other than that i am hoping the p0269 code is caused by the ficm, if not i might need a new injector.
If there is anything else that these codes might be caused by, or i should look into i would appreciate any help you might have. Thanks
#12
Well i just checked out my ficm,
turns out the cover is engraved with Swamps 58v.
So i tested it and with the key on it is 56.1-57.5
while cranking it dropped down to 51.4 for an instant
once it fired it pretty much remained at 57.4.
According to swamps this is within tolerance, what do you guys think?
The higher voltage is more than likely what caused the 0611 code.
So if my ficm is still good, then the rough idle and smoke must be injectors, correct?
turns out the cover is engraved with Swamps 58v.
So i tested it and with the key on it is 56.1-57.5
while cranking it dropped down to 51.4 for an instant
once it fired it pretty much remained at 57.4.
According to swamps this is within tolerance, what do you guys think?
The higher voltage is more than likely what caused the 0611 code.
So if my ficm is still good, then the rough idle and smoke must be injectors, correct?
#13
Well i just checked out my ficm,
turns out the cover is engraved with Swamps 58v.
So i tested it and with the key on it is 56.1-57.5
while cranking it dropped down to 51.4 for an instant
once it fired it pretty much remained at 57.4.
According to swamps this is within tolerance, what do you guys think?
The higher voltage is more than likely what caused the 0611 code.
So if my ficm is still good, then the rough idle and smoke must be injectors, correct?
turns out the cover is engraved with Swamps 58v.
So i tested it and with the key on it is 56.1-57.5
while cranking it dropped down to 51.4 for an instant
once it fired it pretty much remained at 57.4.
According to swamps this is within tolerance, what do you guys think?
The higher voltage is more than likely what caused the 0611 code.
So if my ficm is still good, then the rough idle and smoke must be injectors, correct?
Having 58 Volts or whatever doesnt mean FICM 100% good
Those 58Volt mods are Iffey cause it creates more heat
the way I take it P0611 will set for other reasons besides high or low power issues.
P0611 Fuel Injection Control Module Performance DTC will set cuz any of the following belowFICM memory fault will set if a RAM or
ROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power.
Other internal FICM failureROM fault exists. Loss of FICM Power.
Just for trouble shooting sake will say FICM is GOOD for now
Do you have any gauges??????
#14
#15