My son took the truck out in the desert and now it wont start. Have not looked at it yet but it sounds like the ignition switch is broke. If I can trun it enough to get power I can use the ignition relay to start. Problem is I don't remember how to jump the relay terminals to get it going. Help!!! got to get the truck out of the desert 86 f=250 with a 6.9

 

Jump from the battery-side large post of the solenoid to the nearest small post.

That will crank the starter.

If the ignition isn't on, you'll have to manually run power to the two IP posts. But if the ignition isn't on, then the steering wheel lock might be engaged too. To disable that, you either have to remove the steering wheel and find the locking mechanism, or you just need to turn the ignition switch far enough.

If you know it's the ignition lock cylinder (the key won't turn) my recommendation is to drill it out. It's a little tricky because you don't want to go too deep, but the idea is to drill out the lock cylinder all the way to the back and cut all the tumblers, and then stick a screwdriver in there to turn the cylinder body. I've done it twice. The first time it took me 10 minutes, the second time a few hours.

-Matt

 

The actual ignition switch is farther down the column, a couple good threads on here if you search for them.

You only need to jump 1 terminal on the IP for it to run, the one for the fuel shutoff solenoid. The other 2 are for cold advance and fast idle solenoids which help with starting, but aren't needed to run and shouldn't be left on for long periods of time.

 

Thanks. got it going. Had to pull the cover off the steering column to get the rod pulled back to shift. Now i can get me a fancy push to start button, Just like the glow plug bypass. Still need the key to unlock the wheel.

 

do what you must, but i would rather have as much as possible controlled by the factory switches. a whole cluster of switches is never fun. my F250 has a cluster of 5 toggles, and there are always a couple that i can't quite remember what does what.
contrast that to my e350, where the only aftermarket switches are for the inverter and the added backup lights (2x55w halogens mounted in the rear bumper), and the rear heat unit, controlled by a fan switch from a volvo 240.
considering my van, i hate how my F250 has so many switches, (5 to be exact) i can hardly remember which is which, and i installed all of them.

IMO, if the ignition switch is bad, replace it. if its expensive, so is time rewiring everything around it. so what. get it back to working like it should, and you'll have a lot less trouble later.

 

If your steering column is loose it can cause the problem. Mine won't start with wheel tilted all the way up. If I tilt less than full up it starts fine.

 

Its not a tilt column so it isn't the column being loose unfortunately.
The pushbutton start would only be temporary. I have a house to sell and all my spare time, and I mean all, is used up freshening the thing up to sell. Any time not used on the house I'm selling is used in trying to find a place to put everything in the house we just moved into. The truck is needed to finish the move and run to the big box store for paint and stuff. I would just park it if I didn't use it so much.

 

I have a complete non-tilt column I pulled out of my old 84 F350. If you need any parts off of it let me know.

 

is it the two piece non tilt.? I think I'm going to need the rod that the key actuates to energize the ignition switch