What is the consensus on here with everyone on how much to torque down the Spark Plugs on an 2001 V10? I believe the manual says something like 12lbs but I've read on here more is needed to prevent blowing out a plug.

 

Consensus yet to be achieved!

But lots of sources for recommendations!

MYSELF, based on MY research and MY experiences and what I use on MY truck:
20-25 ft-lbs and dry threads. 20 on early heads with very few threads, 25 on later.

After decades of always using anti-seize, my current approach/experiment is to not use anti-seize on threads of nickel plated spark plugs (shiny silver threads) and change every 50K miles. This is based on the combination of theories that the nickel should not fuse to aluminum in 50 K miles, and that not using anti-seize reduces the risk of plugs loosening.

This is based on my OPINION that the 3 leading causes of spark plug thread damage are, in order:
1) Over or under torquing
2) Plugs loosening
3) Plugs seizing and pulling threads out when removed

Again, that is MY approach. And I do not yet have enough data to insist it is the right answer. All I can say is so far, so good.

If you choose to use anti-seize, remember that you need to reduce torque due to the lubrication qualities of the anti-seize! The stuff I use requires torque to be reduced by about 40%.

 

i used 22-24 on my 03 long thread head V10. (installed dry).

if your heads are still the 3-thread variant (which they might be) then most people were using 14...

 

I have heard that some mechanics replace spark plugs on warm engines. That seems like it would also throw the torque curve off a bit as the metal (aluminum?) would be softer when warm vs cold.

 

On my 2000 V10 I torque them to 14 lbs dry with a cold motor.

Denny

 

So it looks like most don't use anti seize eh? I just replaced mine and I put them in with anti seize and at 15lbs. After read thought about all the blow outs I figured I'd ask if I should snug them up more and remove the anti seize?

 

This ^^^ is probably one of the best, most informed and potentially THE reply to plugs on modular motors!! I have a list of 20+ threads dealing with this issue but they seem unnecessary now!

I'll personally continue using nickel-based anti-seize if only to assure me plugs won't be an issue during the 50K replacement. Torqued to 21 ft/lbs in my earlier 4-threads holes seems to be just about right, also based entirely upon MY OWN experience!

 

On my 2001...I used anti-seize and torgued them to 132 in pounds...never had a problem. When I redid the heads I installed steel inserts in them. Was just going to eliminate any problems in the future.

 

If I ever service the heads on a modular motor I think I'd follow the same procedure----would eliminate so much of the concern or potential for a blown plug regardless how careful we are changing them.

Smart man!

 

My OPINION:
I would leave them be. I would be shocked if that didn't work perfectly well.
Less than 12 with lube would make me a little concerned. But 15 should be dandy.
For piece of mind, re-check in a couple/few thousand miles to make sure they haven't loosened. But resist the temptation to actually crack them loose! Just put wrench on and apply 15 ft-lbs, but only 15 ft-lbs. If they don't move, they are PERFECT!

 

Thanks for all the input everyone, I very much appreciate it and based on all the replies I think I have a good idea on what I'm going to do moving forward.

 

I know, old thread.
My 2000 Excursion has 209K on it, no idea when plugs were done, definitely not in the 10K I have owned it. I popped the passenger rear tonight, broke the coil. I think it may have been loose for a while, I could hear some ticking while we were wheeling but thought it was my leaky exhaust gaskets. It actually threaded back in with a little coaxing and tightened to torque, I just need to go get reamed by NAPA in the morning for a coil.
The plug had to have 100 thou clearance, honestly. Electrode half worn through. It was SHOT. I do not have the time to deal with new heads or trying to helicoil them right now with winter here. SO my question is, should I just pull the coils and make sure no more are loosening, or on the older heads am I safe to try to loosen/change them out? I guess I just don't know the probability of them failing if I try to change them.

 

I'd check to see if the rest are tight. Its a good thing you caught that loose one.

 

Yah, I didn't really catch it, it caught me, lol. I honestly cannot believe that it threaded back in, but some of the threads HAVE to be damaged. I hate having those old plugs in there, but am going to hate it more if they pull out threads....

 

Interesting timing on this threads new life!

My new-to-me '03 E250 with 5.4 motor had what I thought was an exhaust manifold leak---did not look forward to dealing with that. Decided to bite the bullet and change plugs since seats were already removed for other reasons. Discovered #3 plug was barely finger tight and fearing for the worst installed the new plug, holding my breath it was not a stripped hole. Lo and behold it torqued to 21 ft/lbs no problems. Of course first click of the torque wrench and I stopped immediately--did not want to tempt fate!

I'll put another 200-300 miles on before checking torque just to be sure. Odd thing is former owners had a full time mechanic whom I talked to briefly about plug changes---he seems to follow the general recommended procedures. Perhaps he only torqued the plugs to 14 ft/lbs and the #3 simply worked itself loose?