2005 F-150 5.4 FX4 Screw, Exhaust manifold on passenge side cracked and actually had a hole in it. So long story short decided to replace with some shorty headers. Upon removing pass. manifold found the front top stud was broke off just inside of head. Tried lifting pass. side of engine and drilling stud out but due to the tight space and angle having no luck. And to top it off oil dipstick tube broke.

Have decided to pull engine however, heard engine may need to be dropped from the bottom of truck. Is this the case, Or Can the engine be pulled from the top with hoist?

 

Pulling the engine with a lift should be an absolute last resort. The cab was made to be lifted off. The engine has a VERY wide V you will smash everything on the way out. Cuz I smashed everything on the way out. I had the best tools and professional help.

I wish you the best no matter what you choose.

 

I've been working on it in my driveway and was wondering if it was going to be possible to pull however it dont sound that way.
The dealership quoted me 1,800.00 to pull engine and pull stud.
I have a friend with a lift but what is required in lifting the cab.
Or with you going through the process should I just pay the crazy amount to the dealership?

 

You will need to strip the top off the motor, intakes, heads/manifolds. Might as well get the heads rebuilt. New gaskets/studs and assemble with care. Cheapest way/least amount of damage/trouble. Pulling the cab is a pro's challenge with a new crate engine. If you want to try removing your front tires and inner fender liners, jack up and support with jack stands. A little higher will give you more working room. I did it that way to replace heads, cam shafts and intakes+ exhausts, along with front engine work/removal of radiator/gril/fan and water pump+ covers, seals crank pulley and accessories. It took a long holiday weekend + a weeks vacation, with a couple runs for parts at various dealerships across 2 states and 3 cities.

 

From what I know of it, you need to lift the cab off the truck. This is the easiest way from what a mechanic friend told me.

Good luck.....

 

Did you ever get this motor out and back in??
Did you do the work?

 

And yet another reason why these trucks where poorly designed... because we all know that the 5.4l 3V isn't the most reliable engine...

 

i pulled the 5.4 out of my 1999 expedition without removing body just removed the intake and motor mounts and inter fenders its tight but will come out

 

I just finished one of our shop trucks today. It had a cracked passenger side exhaust manifold on a 2006 F150 XLT 5.4 2 wheel drive. What a pain! Luckily, there weren't any broken studs. Just a pain because there's no room!
I pulled the transmission dipstick tube and thought i was never gonna get it installed again!
Also did the plugs, (3 broke!), coil packs, front rotors and bearings, and a worn out rear end!
It'll be wrapped up tomorrow!

 

i did mine i removed the plastic over the wipers gave me a lot more room to lift motor out
with the fan taken off aswell

 

Okay let me start off by saying I am new to the group and I dont know if anyone even is connected to this thread anymore but I am young but I was taught the old school way. Worked on my back in the dirt or the gravel rocks in a driveway.
I own 2008 f250 4 door 4x4 8 ft bed with the (HEADACHE) 5.4L 3valve trition engine. Always was a Chevy guy but I'm a motor head period. All an all I came across this truck for a steal. 1500$ needed a motor. Being mechanically inclined I I said sure let's do this. Paid 580 for a motor with 96k running. I pulled with a engine hoist out of the top of the engine compartment. Been reading all these different crazy ways to getting this thing out. It will happen with out taking the whole cab off but this is what you need and need to do.
1: get top of motor ready, take the upper intake off..power steering pump off.
2: jack up the transmission take the trans mount bolts out. Can take off rear drive shaft to where the trans will slide back a bit but I did not.
3: THIS IS KEY.#*#*#*#*#* HAVE AT LEAST 3 PEOPLE ONE ON EACH SIDE OF ENGINE TO MAKE SURE NOTHING IS HANGING UP OR SMASHING LIKE SOMEONE ELSE SAID. I broke nothing. Pulled right out from the top of motor.
thanks for your time.
Ps didnt have to take fan out moved rad and trans cooler upper rad support .

 

An '08 F250 is different than '04-08 F150.

I have not yanked a motor from either but I would say visually I'd tend to think the higher body lines of the 3/4t+ trucks afford more room than their 1/2t counterparts. Maybe not....

 

Maybe there’s something about the FX4 body (OP’s truck) that makes pulling the cab the only way??

I did a 5.4 swap in a 2008 F150 a couple of weeks ago. Although I can see why pulling the cab (or at least lifting it a few inches) would make the job easier, it wasn’t that difficult without doing so. I replaced it with a salvage engine with 61k that was also from a 2008.

Besides the intake, I removed the cowl panels, PCM and bracket, and battery from the top end. I also completely removed the battery cable harness (for repairs) and the trans cooler lines (less about clearance and more about concerns they would get pinched/smashed during installation).

I thought about removing the upper radiator support but I couldn’t quite tell what all would be necessary to do so, but I did pull the radiator anyway to flush it and clean the fine, as well as removed the fan. That allowed plenty of clearance in front.

I didn’t remove the rear trans mount. With the intake and front section of the exhaust removed (pipes with the cats), all trans bolts were accessible. I supported the trans with a jack and wood block (although it was tempting to use a block on top of the sway bar instead ).

I also opted to unbolt the right motor mount from the engine instead of from the frame (easy enough with the fender liner removed). This allowed for slight twisting the engine as needed so I didn’t have to fight lining up the studs.

The funny thing to me about it was that I had the most difficulty trying to get the electrical connectors hooked back up. With the engine out, I replaced the spark plugs (the back 4 broke off and removing them was so much easier with the engine out - who knew? ) and coil boots. I ended up having to blast EVERY connector (every single one - not just the coils) with compressed air to get them to seat.

 

I have an 07 f150 STX special addition with a 5.4 3V. I.was able to pull mine up and out with a hoist. Did it in the snow under a canopy. I took some patience but it is doable.

Old one out

The new one going in with standard hoist.

You can see the hoist right behind my truck.

 

Got a motor from a f150.
took motor out of my f250
Bolted motor to bell housing of trans got motor mounts in. Ect..
I go to hook up the power steering pump an to me the timing case is different. From the old motor. The 150 motor had a spot for an extra pulley where the one that came out of the truck did not..I was wondering if I typed both the vins in an the motor is coming up the same why would they change anything. What do I have to change from a 150 5.4 to work on my f250?. If it's a matter of just the timing case then that's straight bull****. Ford can go to hell. My f250 power steering pump wont bolt up to the 150 5.4 because of the bigger oil cooler for the 250. I dont want to eliminate the oil cooler. I'm just wondering if I'm not seeing something right. Idk.