mystery
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mystery
I have an '02 F-350 standard cab 7.3 auto trans. I had the dome light staying on problem and one of the two batteries became discharged. I removed both batteries, charged them both back up and put them aside. Next was to clean up the battery box/air box on the driver's side and remove the wiring mess that had been left which went to a snowplow rig - no longer used and not connected at all to the fuse panel. Replaced both batteries and connected the cables. The truck starts and runs, but there is no function in the instrument panel - no tach, no warning chimes, no ABS system check, nothing. Fuses appear to be OK. No gauge function. Could this be the computer having to reboot itself ? Any ideas where to begin?
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: CA Bay Area
You have several problems posted at once. Did you fix the cabin light?
My first concern would be why only 1 battery got discharged. Check the cable connections. It is common that passenger side ground gets loose on the engine block.
For gauges you need to trace power supply. I think we do have smaller cable going to battery clamp for that, so make sure it is having good connection.
My first concern would be why only 1 battery got discharged. Check the cable connections. It is common that passenger side ground gets loose on the engine block.
For gauges you need to trace power supply. I think we do have smaller cable going to battery clamp for that, so make sure it is having good connection.
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From: E Central OH
I'd go back through the disconnected wires - where you removed the wirig for the plow - and see if something got unplugged/ disconnected/ cut. If the POs wiring was haphazard, per your description, I look there 1st.
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mystery
no, the cabin light didn't get fixed - I removed the center bulb and the two outside bulbs on the high mounted brake light, because these stayed on long after the door was closed. I'm ordering new door ajar switches that, I believe, control these bulbs. That should cure the problem there. I'm also going to load test both batteries (trying to eliminate the easy stuff first) I can re-install the plow wiring easily enough. A previous owner took the leads for the joystick and the leads for the plow frame headlights, coiled them up, zip tied them to keep them together and left the whole thing, with attached relay box on top of the driver's side fender inner liner.I've continuity tested all the mini fuses in the fuse block behind the driver's side lower panel and they were all OK. I'll post again after I replace the door ajar switches, load test the batteries and re-install the plow elec. harness. Thanks for the replies, guys
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mystery
OK, most of mystery solved: Low battery voltage caused by VTVM battery failing (nothing to do with truck batteries!) Both batteries load tested fine. Replaced both door ajar switches. Decided plow electrical harness had nothing to do with problem, since it wasn't connected electrically or mechanically, so left it off. Instrument panel, speedo and tach not working created by blown fuse, even though all fuses tested good. I had the starter rebuilt, more for insurance against failing in an inconvenient place than anything else, and I'm glad I did. The solenoid was toast. Double checked all connections and did a function test. Only 1 thing left to repair or, more probably replace and that's the horn. Chilton book (Haynes) says it is gotten to by removing passenger side inner front fender panel, but I'm going to try removing the windshield washer reservoir and see if it is in that area. I have zero confidence in what has to be the worst repair manual ever. I'll bet the Ford Owner's manual is more helpful than this garbage!!!
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: CA Bay Area
I had my horn failing and I just pulled the wire out and hooked it up to those babies.
They are not very reliable, but sure make good impression.
And for $15 I can put new one every 2 years.
12 Volt Super-Loud Air Horn
They are not very reliable, but sure make good impression.
And for $15 I can put new one every 2 years.
12 Volt Super-Loud Air Horn
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