so the back leaf spring mount is super rusted and needs to be replaced. i got a mount from the junk yard. i just need to remove the old one and instal it.

looks for some tips on the best way to remove it. and how to get the old rusted bolt out of the leaf spring.

thanks

 

The mount is riveted to the frame right? If so, there are a couple ways to do it:
1) Air chisel or grind off the heads and try to punch the rivet through. If that does not work, you can drill the rivet out after cutting the head off.
2) Cutting torch off the rivet head, then punch out or drill out the rivet.

No matter what the rivets are a pain in the *** to remove. Use grade 8 bolts to put the new piece back on. Use loctite or nylock nuts

For the bolt through the leaf spring - soak in penetrant for several days before you even start. A good impact is helpful to get the nut off and then spin the bolt out

 

Leaf spring bolts are a real pain. I've had several that rusted tight to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing in the spring. Even after soaking with PB for days, I usually have the bolt and the sleeve spinning inside the rubber bushing. Then I have to take a cut-off wheel and cut the bolt between the spring & the hanger on both sides to get it out...
I've had good luck grinding the heads off rivets & punching them out with a BFH.

 

ah what a pain i had replacing mine.i got looking at the other side,and i see its finally showing some thinness to it.so it's about time to replace the other too.oh joy.
the torch is only so good.the rivets are out in 30 secs lol.it's that dang spring bolt/bushing that you can only heat up so much before she starts to burn.

 

So let it burn!!

Drill a series of holes through the rubber bushing then you should be able to punch out the centre bushing. Then if you're careful a sawzall or hacksaw (or torch) and the outer bushing is out.

 

my favorite way was to run i think it was a 1/2 inch drill in to the rivet until you cut the head off then stick a pneumatic hammer on it and they all fall right out.

if you get a stubborn one hammer a chisel behind thou mount as to take up any slack between the frame and the mount then punch the rivet out.

look up how to sharpen drill bits and your day will be easy, i took all of the rivets out of the back half of frame in about 2 hrs

 

If you are near the fuel tank or lines, be careful with a torch.

I don't have a cutting torch, so have to do other methods. One of the easiest and quickest I've done is use a cut-off wheel on the grinder to make an X all the way through the rivet head. Then use an air chisel to pop the 4 little chunks off. Smooth out the surface with the grinding wheel getting the last bits of the rivet head off, but not digging into the frame or bracket (don't worry about screwing up the bracket if you're replacing it, but I've used this to remove brackets without damage if you're careful). If you are lucky, you can pound the rivets out at this point. Usually I end up drilling into the rivet just about the thickness of the frame. A bit about half the size of the rivet usually works (go in stages is easier). The hole relieves the pressure and the rivet pops out pretty easily at that point.

The absolute worst part will probably be getting the spring bolt out. I've had to cut out quite a few. If this is your only running vehicle, have a spring bushing available in case you have to destructively remove the current one to get the bolt out.
I had one that just wouldn't budge no matter how hard I hit it with a hammer and it would rotate at all. I was able to remove the whole spring and put it on the shop press and press the rest of the bolt out, but it took a hell of a lot of pressure to break the rust free.

Make sure to slaver the new bolt in never seize so it will be easier if you ever have to do it again.

 

good point.just burn the sucker out and be done with it.SK6541 it looks like @ autozone.likely well worth the time saved.i swear i spent 2 hrs last time on the drivers side beating that bolt out.waste of effort lol.
i had replaced the rear of rear leaf spring hangers before,but i never had that issue of the bolt stuck so hard to that dang rubber.surprised me.

 

yeah i figured it would be a real pain. ive done them on jeeps before.

i need to get it done along with a million other things to my truck and camper before thursday..so we will see how it goes.

maybe i will take the camper out with the broken mount. hopefully it will be ok..

I only need to drive it 60km total

 

All good suggestion's, I would grind the heads off, heat "around" the rivet, and center punch it out. They pop out pretty easy after their heated, NOT the rivet itself, just around it. No torches, spray them, after grinding, let them sit a bit, then punch them out.
Torches do make it easier. I believe their 7/16 also. Change the bushings.

 

im not too worried about removing the rivots.

its more removing the bolt from the bushing im worried about.

 

i hear ya, leave the bolt in, and concentrate at getting the bushing out, and replace both.

 

how do u remove the bushing?

 

Torche's, or drill it out.

 

Guys, new hear, and been searching around. Just got a 95 and this has been helpful. Appreciate the hell outta the info. May be burning the bushings out of the spring. Joy. Think a small torch for sweating pipes will work, or do I need to get a larger set??
As far as the bolts for the frame...are they just a 9/16" sized bolt?
Looking for info on the bolt size. I forgot to get the bolt size before I left the springs out at my dad's place where my truck is sitting, an hour away.

I figured I'd just get a longer threaded bolt, and double nut each bolt and weld the end nut to the bolt so it does not back off.

What are the correct sized tools for the main leaf spring bolt?

*sigh* sorry, I know FNG, and I forgot to measure this stuff before dropping off last night. I have to drive an hour to get to my truck so I'd prefer to have my tools with me.