We are the third owners of a 2001 7.3 with about 240K on it. It has a banks tuner (K&N intake and some kind of exhaust), a 4 inch lift and an aux fuel tank installed (owner before last ran a veggie set up in the main) I haven't figured out the plumbing on yet. Toggle switch on dash swaps tanks.

Recently blew the HPOP and had that replaced, a couple of injectors replaced, and few other dealer repairs/replacement in the suspension since I bought it about a year ago. Definitely has that occasional "stutter"

Which leads me to the question: As I start trying to get in front of instead behind the maintenance on this rig is there a thread already or good list of things to do? I am particularly interested in things that are going to get done anyway but can be made a little better in the process. For example since I need to replace the alternator should I be replacing it with something other than a stock or is an OEM just fine save the money? Since I was replacing the HPOP should I have had a different one installed than stock? Should I get new injectors so the next time something happens I can just have them replace all at same time?

Purpose is reliability over "capability" over power. Family transport mostly. maybe light towing on occasion. Weekly cross state 300 milers and occasionally daily 15 mile to work and back.

Before spending big bucks on 15 year old car I am looking at steps I can take to both get better at wrenching on the rig and start building in a bit more reliability a piece at a time. I am not inept but I don't have a lot of mechanic experience. Ultimately if things work out maybe improved diff or lockers?

 

Well since you already replaced it and it is relatively new I would not swap it out. When I got mine the first thing I did was replace all the o-rings on the turbo pedestal, and the fuel bowl. I assume you have changed out the fuel filter. Gauges help a lot boost, transmission, and EGT's are probably the top 3. I added a small digital volt meter. A lot of people like the Neeceville alternator, I went with a DB alternator going on 2 years and not a single problem. I would have done the injectors in a set with new o-rings, and maybe the injector cups. Done right it they should last another 240K. I did the same thing you did stuff needed replaced I upgraded for something a little better. Still have the original turbo, but I added a billet wheel from Riffraff diesel. I think it is easier to advise you if you have a plan. Is our next "fix" the alternator? If you do upgrade to a better one, most require the addition of better cables.

 

New motorcraft injectors are the gold standard
Donaldson/Ford AIS air cleaner is hands down winner for dirt filtering and dirt holding capacity.
Motorcraft alternators are good enough unless you have considerable higher amperage needs from accessories.

I bought a rebuilt HPOP that lasted less then a year, replaced it with motorcraft and has been fine for the last 60k but that's the extent of my HPOP experience.

With the exception of Redhead steering gear and some banks junk i tend to stick with motorcraft stuff.

 

Thank you both. Yes since I already bought and paid for the HPOP repair that particular item is probably dropping low on the list. I think the alternator is first since the bat light flashes intermittently. Voltage check by NAPA showed normal but the light wasn't on. I am told some stores can actually check the alternator?


Then thinking brakes?


Then hubs? frozen right now, I think locked.

 

The light is directly related to the sensing wires on the little plug on the back of the alternator. You might not have a bad alternator. It could just be one of the wires is loose or broken inside...thus making intermittent contact. I have seen the plugs themselves be loose and causing an open while vibrating.

Brakes on these things have to be well kept up with. They are undersized to begin with. Do yourself a favor and bleed a good portion of the fluid out each year. Replace with new fluid and don't let the reservoir go empty while bleeding. I completely replace my fluid once a year. Use the correct grease on the slide pins, and don't over-grease them. Thin coating on each one is sufficient. Make sure the protective boots are seated on both side. Calipers get old and seize up. Check them good. Never push the calipers pistons back in without first opening the bleeder to expel the old fluid you are displacing. You don't want that old fluid going back up into the lines. Replace your old rubber lines with stainless (I can vouch for the Russell kit). The kit will work fine on the 2wd as well as the 4 inch lift it is advertised for. Same fittings; just a little extra hose length.

Hubs can be worked loose by taking them apart and cleaning them internally. Probably just dirt build up in there.

 

There are some articles in the tech folder at the top of the forum..lots of good information..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-folder.html

 

Thank you again. That is good info and advice.


I had never even seen those tech files that will be very helpful.

 

I was looking for something else and ran across this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1047813-failure-prevention-thread.html. Lots of gold in there and is exactly what you were asking for.