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Removing emmisions?

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Old Apr 2, 2012 | 11:32 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by fordmaniac1
i don't understand why anyone would want to reroute burnt exhaust back into your intake, think of all the carbon unburned fuel that is being dumped back into your system, I say take it all off, my runs great without that junk on there, and think of the efficiency that can be gained by not turning the smog pump anymore, remember its a small air compressor. when running its trying to push air into the system (with no filter).
Later stuff with EGR uses it to reduce detonation in addition to the emissions purpose of reducing oxides of nitrogen. Higher compression can be run as a result. "carbon unburned fuel...."??? If your engine is spitting unburned fuel out the exhaust, you have other problems besides the EGR.

Smog pump uses very little power, less than 5 hp, and the unfiltered air is going into the exhaust. Never heard of any problems caused by that and smog pumps have been around 50 years.

That's not to say if the stuff isn't working and you don't have to pass an inspection that the smart money is on removing it and getting rid of exhaust leaks etc.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 04:42 AM
  #17  
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I just want to clarify from someone who has removed the air pump to make sure they had no problems after they removed it. Also how would i get rid of the pump? Do i just take it off and get a shorter belt?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 04:51 AM
  #18  
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Get an idler pulley like they sell for mustangs, that way the belt routing and size is the same.
then you will have no problem finding the right belt and the wrap around each of the rest of the components is correct.
Originally Posted by brcwelding
I just want to clarify from someone who has removed the air pump to make sure they had no problems after they removed it. Also how would i get rid of the pump? Do i just take it off and get a shorter belt?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 05:58 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Spktyr
California, among other states, says it IS a jailable offense.
<cite>www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermktcat/installcatq&a.pdf</cite>
Your link is broken.....
I assume you mean this.

"Q. What is the penalty for a violation of the law?
A. Catalytic converter falls under California anti-tampering law. The law is designed to prevent tampering with pollution control devices on California vehicles. The anti-tampering law is Vehicle Code Section 27156 and covers all pollution related systems and devices on a motor vehicle. A violation of this law may also include a parallel violation of California Business and Professions Code Sections 17200 and 17500. Judges usually impose penalty based on the severity of the offence and whether a repeat offender is involved, and a fine of up to $2,500 for each violation may be assessed, as well as some jail time."

...This seems to be a jailable offense under the trade practices law. i.e. if you are a dealer or shop that has a history of disabling emissions control devices, but NOT a felony. (punishable by a prison term of over one year)

And further, here, http://www.arb.ca.gov/enf/sb1402/policy.pdf

on pgs.11-12 (under "Mobile Sources and Fuels Penalties (Part 5 of Division 26, HSC)" we see

"... Part 5 relies almost exclusively on civil penalties.
Transactions involving new motor vehicles that are not certified to ARB’s
emission standards are subject to civil penalties of up to $5,000 per vehicle per
violation (section 43154). These are the hallmark penalties that safeguard ARB’s
stringent motor vehicle emission standards. They were upheld in State Air Resources Board v. Wilmshurst (1999) 68 Cal.App.4th 1332, which
rejected many of the legal challenges to ARB’s ability to enforce its vehicle
certification programs.
Other requirements carrying specific penalties for violations selling
vehicles
that violate ARB’s emission standards [$5,000 per vehicle (section
43211)], violating ARB test procedures [$50 per vehicle (section 43212)] and
tampering with pollution control devices ($1,000 per violation for car dealers
(section 43012)]."

Cite: Health and Safety Code Section 43012 Vehicular Air Pollution Control

I'm not looking to argue.
It's definitely against the law, and obviously I can't condone it...
I am pointing out someones wholly mistaken belief that for an individual modifying their own emissions system is a felony under State or Federal law..
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 08:31 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by brcwelding
I just want to clarify from someone who has removed the air pump to make sure they had no problems after they removed it. Also how would i get rid of the pump? Do i just take it off and get a shorter belt?
Thats what I did. I just removed it, and got a shorter belt.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #21  
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Do you guys know where i can get an idler pulley. Also what would be the best way to plug the holes in the manifold where the air tubes used to be.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #22  
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So does anybody who has done this before know where i can get an idler pulley for the air pump.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
Later stuff with EGR uses it to reduce detonation in addition to the emissions purpose of reducing oxides of nitrogen. Higher compression can be run as a result. "carbon unburned fuel...."??? If your engine is spitting unburned fuel out the exhaust, you have other problems besides the EGR.

Smog pump uses very little power, less than 5 hp, and the unfiltered air is going into the exhaust. Never heard of any problems caused by that and smog pumps have been around 50 years.

That's not to say if the stuff isn't working and you don't have to pass an inspection that the smart money is on removing it and getting rid of exhaust leaks etc.
X2 and i can tell you from first hand experience that mileage drops like a rock when the egr stops working...
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 03:59 PM
  #24  
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I have no desire to remove the egr system, i just want to get rid of the air pump because all the check valves and air tubes are rotted and i dont want to spend the money on fixing them.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 06:48 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by brcwelding
I just want to clarify from someone who has removed the air pump to make sure they had no problems after they removed it. Also how would i get rid of the pump? Do i just take it off and get a shorter belt?
I removed the air pump on my 1992 F350 w/5.8L engine. A previous owner had already removed the rest of the air injection components. The ports in the back of the heads were plugged, thankfully they left the TAB/TAD solenoids electrically connected to keep the CEL off. I replaced the factory head pipe and (gutted factory converter) with a Bassani y-pipe and a Magnaflow high-flow converter. Even though the Bassani pipe has provision for the air tube, I really had nothing to plumb it with so I had it welded shut. The other reasoning is a modern 3-way converter does not need the air injection anyway.

Long story short I removed the pump and used a shorter belt. The 5.8L engines used several different belt routing schemes, some are easier to get working with a shorter belt, others are not. No Check Engine Light, no loss of mileage or any driveability issues for the last three years since I did the swap.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 07:19 PM
  #26  
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So heres the plan.I am going to remove the air pump and get a shorter belt. Plug the holes in the back of the head. Now what do i do with the tubes that go to the exhaust manifold and what about the vacuum lines?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 07:24 PM
  #27  
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Cap them. <fillllll>
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 06:33 AM
  #28  
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I have removed and capped everything and got a shorter belt. There is only one thing i dont understand. I dont understand where i need to plug the back of the heads. I see the check valve is rotted off in the crossover pipe and i can see where the pipe goes to each head but where exactly do i put the bolt in? Am i supposed to remove the pipe from each head and then bolt it? By the way if anyone wanted to know the belt i used was part number 5062608 at advanced auto parts.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #29  
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The crossover pipe is held to the back of the heads with little forked retainers. (looks kind of like a crowsfoot wrench)

The D3VE heads are not tapped 5/8-11 like the windsor heads are.

If the engine was out you could drive in 49/64th freeze plugs like those found at the front of the heads. (NAPA # 219-2188) or tap the inner step of the hole 1/4"NPT and use plumbing parts.

Someone makes a plug for these that is held in place just like the end of the crossover tube is.
But I don't have that link here on my netbook.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by brcwelding
I have removed and capped everything and got a shorter belt. There is only one thing i dont understand. I dont understand where i need to plug the back of the heads. I see the check valve is rotted off in the crossover pipe and i can see where the pipe goes to each head but where exactly do i put the bolt in? Am i supposed to remove the pipe from each head and then bolt it? By the way if anyone wanted to know the belt i used was part number 5062608 at advanced auto parts.
Thanks for that part number, I'll be doing this myself soon.
 
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