If the top half of the old CAC was packed with dead bugs and the bottom half sealed off with adobe bricks like mine gets, I can see a significant temperature decrease with a new, clean 6.0 cooler.

 

Remember the question wasn't "what reduces EGTs?", it was, "why doesn't downshifting, which is commonly accepted as reducing, or slowing the rise of, EGTs do anything on my truck?"

Tugly, I have AE and am interested in what parameters you'd suggest I examine. If I remember right, Jody just commented that he'd seen one other truck behave this way when I mentioned it, and showed him on my EGT gauge. Other than an HPOP not keeping up with demand (since corrected, but that's another thread ), I don't remember him noticing anything unusual.

Mark

 

Someone recommended a 6.0 IC swap to fix a problem that is obviously not IC related.

And then to say a 220 degree drop with an IC?? Come on. We might have temps coming out of the turbo at 450-525 degrees. That's a huge percentage. I saw 50 degree drop.

Let's get this thread back on track.

 

Sorry for the delayed response - my attention drifted elsewhere.

AE - fantastic! I'm not the expert like woodnthings, but I'm learning. I'd start with the basics, KOEO: MAP sensor, the BARO, and EBP sensor reading the PSI for your altitude (14.7 PSI sea level, 12.0 Littleton, CO) plus or minus no more than 1.3 from each other. Check the Intake Air Temp and make sure your intake air filter minder isn't popped. Now I know why your 6637 is taking care of business - you have no freaking air to suck up there. Have you already done your cylinder contribution test?

You don't mention which tow tune you use on the big climb or if the live tune was at your elevation or during towing. Are you blowin' coal on the big tow? You also didn't mention what you mean by downshift - just out of OD (TCLU), or down to 2 (no TCLU - good thing you have BTS, this eats other transmissions). If you're going down to 2, I'd really watch the Transmission Fluid Temperature. I didn't see the AIH delete in your sig. If you haven't done this yet, every little bit helps - particularly if the silly thing is turning on when it's not supposed to. What are your EGTs on the same drive empty?

I have plenty of battery in my netbook for long runs, plus I have an isolated inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. If you have this capability with your AE computer, put it in record the whole time you're on the hills with AE: I'd record the Exhaust Back Pressure, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Air Intake Temp, Transmission Fluid Temp, Vehicle Speed, Engine RPM, ICP, ICP DC, and the TC slip RPM. Take the time to set it up to see the critical stuff at a glance, but the real troubleshooting begins later - when you can review the data undistracted by things like dodging deer, other cars, and not spilling your beverage.

Don't worry about information overload, the files don't get that big and the data can be parsed out to a digestible level with a spreadsheet or by zooming on the AE graph at home. It also helps to have a co-pilot make notes "Hon, my EGTs are 1200 while I'm doing 50 at a quarter after 3" and you can find the conditions in the data by time and speed. I have a torture track I've been driving for years between my home and work, so I can recognize my location just by speed/ICP alone.

Get more input - I'm not the expert, this is just where I would start.

 

Thanks Tugly! Most helpful! Yes on the AIH delete, as I did that many years ago and forgot about it. "Downshifting", in the context I'm using it, means 4-3. Smoke isn't bad (in live-tuned 80T, which is the tune I use most of the time), but that's partly because Jody took a little fuel out at the low end. I can still cloud an intersection if I get on it from a dead stop with a load in tow, but that's another story...

It may take me some time, but I'll get on the homework. I've compared pressures in the past, but it's worth doing again, and I never have gotten around to running a CCT.

Thanks,

Mark

 

I think we're onto something here. I wouldn't run an 80t at that altitude if I was pulling a bicycle up the hill. Somebody jump in here if they feel the urge to cry foul, but you need a tamer tow tune. I have 80t for the flat with my boat below 4000 ft and 40t for the big boy toys and mountains. Jody has a 20t in his inventory as well, just let him know who the reduced tune is for and why, and he'll have his live tune data still on file - that will help him dial the next tow tune. Fifty bucks is a cheap mod to prevent piston meltdown.

My 80e smoked like a dog at that altitude in Tahoe and forget the pass that got me there - it was like the turbo was out.

What happens if you try stock?

 

Oh, I have others I can use. I just like that one. Seriously, I should play around with the others, though it may not matter much: If you're backing out of 80t to keep EGT's at 1200*, or running with lots of pedal in 40t with the same EGT's, I suspect the two tunes are functionally equivalent at that point in time. It would make for an interesting AE comparison.

On a semi-related topic, how do you tell if an inverter has an isolated ground? I have one that plugs into the cigarette lighter, too, but have no idea if it has an isolated ground, or not.

Mark

 

I agree. It seems like your running too hot of a tune for what you are towing. I didn't see you mention how many lbs your towing. My 60t tune recommends less than 7000#. Mine usually has light smoke going up the canyon, lugging corners before it either downshifts or builds boost to overcome the fueling.

 

The 40t will thin the mix quite a bit and rob you of some of your acceleration, but you'll get less smoke and heat. Fuel not burned in the cylinders has to burn somewhere, so it burns in the exhaust where it does more harm than good. Smoke is bad during the hefty haul up the hill - it is simply unburned fuel. AE will show you a drop in ICP or a shorter FIPW between 80t and 40t. I don't tune, so I'm not sure which parameter will show the biggest difference - maybe both.

Pull the fuse on your cigarette lighter and plug in your inverter. You can then use a multimeter or a test light between a good ground in the truck and the ground in the inverter. There should be no connection between the two.

 

I use 40 tow high altitude when at home towing (7000 ft elevation) and 40 tow once I drop below 5000 ft on my regular drive to the lake I go to. My boat fully loaded with gear is just below 5k. I have tried leaving it in the regular 40 tow instead of high alt, and it does make a difference in temps!

 

I tow in my hot street file...

I control my EGT's with the shifter **** and my right foot. No issues towing anywhere in the country going as fast as I want...

This is what is following me most of the time when doing it...



Too many people get all caught up in the 20tow, 40tow, 60 tow... 315 tow, 7894tow...

Just throw it in a setting and tow. I could tow in the drag3b file without issue other then starting off would be a little smoky.

 

While I'm quite sure your Swamps tuner and your super-maintained and modded truck can take diesel and make the ultimate tow beast "out of thin air" (good job, by the way), I'd prefer to help AcladedDog solve the issue that this thread was started for. For some reason, his DP is making too much power to use in his configuration, so reduce power settings are being recommended.

Noramlly, I wouldn't want to interfere with anybody else's input - but you're telling him to just slow down more and like it. I find it interesting that your Swamps doesn't make too much power for the engine under real load. I thought all tuners had to back off for the big pull - but maybe there are some that have no need to back off. I learned something about Swamps.

 

What I am saying is not he has an issue with his tuner, there is something tweaked with his truck, trans or elsewhere. You should not have the issue he is having.

If I am going 65 in OD pulling and the EGT's are reaching 1300+*, I can hit the OD button and continue to pull at 65, with the EGT's dropping to 1100 or less.

No where in my previous post did I say anything about slowing down. Down shift and bring the RPM's up. If he is not maintaining fuel pressure or HPOP then the EGT's can continue to climb from lack of fuel atomization. If he has a TC with issues this could cause the same heat issues.

My "super maintained" truck??? LOL... Its a junk yard motor with low compression and tons of blow by... It leaks coolant out of the oil cooler, fuel out of the tank, oil from about everywhere and knocks like hell...

Just went over the grape vine here in Cali today, set the cruise at 75mph and forget about it, couple times I would get stuck behind someone and have to slow, if I get below 1700rpm's it smokes a bit so I would drop out of OD, pass and hammer down. Never once touched 1200*.

I'm rambling now, but my tuner has nothing to do with how my truck tows, I could (and did) take your DP tuner chip, run it on the hottest setting you have and pull my 24k load up any road or pass in the country without worry one bit. Shift... Shift... Shift.

 

...ahem...

 

Which is rarely on... Didnt use it today at all, infact I believe the tank is empty for winter.

But yes, water injection can help.