Main Bolts
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Seattle, WA
Main Bolts
Hi,
I'm trying to find the right main bolt kit for my upcoming 351w swap and I've encountered a suprisingly large selection of different options and don't know where I should go.
I know you need to replace the mount bolts each time, once they've been stretched they are useless to use again. Is the same true for the main bolts? Is this a 2-bolt main such as the one found at ARP 154-5003 - ARP Main Bolt Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com or, does it require the full stud kit? What else will be an absolute necessity for my upcoming swap?
I want to do a quality job with the swap but haven't ever really tackled this project without knowledgeable assistance. If I go over budget too far my S.O. is gonna kill me.
As usual, thanks to the awesome folks here who help out the newbs!
I'm trying to find the right main bolt kit for my upcoming 351w swap and I've encountered a suprisingly large selection of different options and don't know where I should go.
I know you need to replace the mount bolts each time, once they've been stretched they are useless to use again. Is the same true for the main bolts? Is this a 2-bolt main such as the one found at ARP 154-5003 - ARP Main Bolt Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com or, does it require the full stud kit? What else will be an absolute necessity for my upcoming swap?
I want to do a quality job with the swap but haven't ever really tackled this project without knowledgeable assistance. If I go over budget too far my S.O. is gonna kill me.
As usual, thanks to the awesome folks here who help out the newbs!
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I'm confused as to what you're wanting to do. If only an engine swap, I don't know why you'd want to replace the main bolts that keep the crankshaft inside the block.
Getting inside the engine is more than just swapping, are you wanting to get more involved?
Getting inside the engine is more than just swapping, are you wanting to get more involved?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
That is the same part# I came up with. You can use the old ones if you want, they are not torque to yield. I almost always re-use the main and head bolts when doing a rebuild, unless something a lot better is needed.
No point in using studs on a driver.
What are the details of the swap?
No point in using studs on a driver.
What are the details of the swap?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
No problem. 
BTW I have never replaced the bolts that hold the engine to the mounts whenever I swap an engine, can you explain more about which bolts you're wanting to replace and what you're wanting to do?
BTW I have never replaced the bolts that hold the engine to the mounts whenever I swap an engine, can you explain more about which bolts you're wanting to replace and what you're wanting to do?
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Seattle, WA
Sorry, yes I shouldnt even need to touch the main bolts.. I'm showing off my maximum newb today.
I'm swapping an 84 351w with no oil pressure and signficant knock to an 85 351w that's got good compression and is running right. Just a straightforward swap, nothing fancy. Coming out of an 85 F-150 2wd into my 84 F-250 4x4, both 4spd manual transaxle.
I'm swapping an 84 351w with no oil pressure and signficant knock to an 85 351w that's got good compression and is running right. Just a straightforward swap, nothing fancy. Coming out of an 85 F-150 2wd into my 84 F-250 4x4, both 4spd manual transaxle.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Seattle, WA
The bolts that hold the engine to the mounts. I've always thought they needed to be replaced each time as they are torque to yield and once stretched they are no good to use again. I could just save myself some money if the consensus is that I'll be fine
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 11
From: Wausau, WI
The mount bolts had me a little bedazzled too. None of the bolts are torque to yield on a 351w. I think he's thinking of the newer engines that are "torque to xx ft lbs then turn an extra 1/4 turn". Those are throw-away bolts.
On another note, check the pilot bearing (bushing), better to do it now, then when it's together.
On another note, check the pilot bearing (bushing), better to do it now, then when it's together.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Pay attention to the ignition, distributor & carburetor, both are right around the time Ford went to computer-controlled Feedback Carburetors and ignitions. You might want to keep some of that stuff from your original engine.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Seattle, WA
The mount bolts had me a little bedazzled too. None of the bolts are torque to yield on a 351w. I think he's thinking of the newer engines that are "torque to xx ft lbs then turn an extra 1/4 turn". Those are throw-away bolts.
On another note, check the pilot bearing (bushing), better to do it now, then when it's together.
On another note, check the pilot bearing (bushing), better to do it now, then when it's together.
This is good news then! It means all I really need from the auto parts store is some water/coolant.
Don't mind me, just making more useless threads.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Seattle, WA
I may just move over the whole intake assembly too but I'll burn that bridge when I get to it tomorrow
its a shame, brand new carb sitting on my swap candidate..Thanks for the help! I'll take pictures tomorrow.
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