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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

I need a 500 cfm

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:55 PM
  #31  
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Pretty much yeah
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:46 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Daltonsheets1995
I put new floats in the carb an they are level. It has a brand new filter. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is weak or not though
Level....There is a specific measurement for the floats, is that what you mean you set them too?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:48 AM
  #33  
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Yeah I went by the specs the rebuilt kit gave me. I forgot them now
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 07:32 AM
  #34  
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It sounds like the symptoms of fuel starvation, which Chris aptly outlined, seem to fit the problem. I'll add that, in my experience, fuel starvation gets worse with each successive gear - probably because there is that much more load placed on the engine, and because you are in each successive gear that much longer.

As to what can cause that, here are a few:
  • Float drop setting in carb. I believe the Carters, which the E'brock is, have an adjustment on how far down the float can drop in the bowl. That's to keep it from stiring up the yuk on the bottom, I think, but I know for a fact that setting that too high can keep the needle from coming off the seat far enough to allow much gas through. And, it will do what the OP is saying he's seeing.
  • Clogged fuel filter. The filters have probably been replaced, but should be if not.
  • Weak fuel pump. This can cause very similar problems to float drop.
  • Fuel line leaks. The earlier years of our trucks have rubber hoses in many places for the fuel line and every single truck I've worked on has had rotten, awful hoses. They need to be replaced if they haven't as they not only allow fuel to come out but they allow air to get in and this kills the fuel pump's ability to pump gas.
  • Carb float level. I put this last as the OP has said he adjusted the floats as directed in the kit. However, given the fact that the floats curve and other issues with setting the level this shouldn't be dismissed.

I'm sure there are other reasons, but all of these things should be checked and repaired if necessary. Then come back and tell us how it is running.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 09:15 AM
  #35  
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I just reread all three pages and find no mention regarding exhaust... that, too, can affect performance. Just wondering? Can you fill us in?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #36  
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CHECK YOUR TIMING !
get your timing set first , then you will need to adjust your carb !
BASICS FIRST !
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:48 PM
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It's just stock exhaust manifold with no cat and a flow aster muffler
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #38  
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I'll try to put a timing light on it today what should I advance the timing to?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Daltonsheets1995
I'll try to put a timing light on it today what should I advance the timing to?
Something around 10 BTDC, meaning Before Top Dead Center. Clean your harmonic balancer so can see the marks. Bump the engine until the marks are easily visible and mark maybe the 10 BTDC line with chalk.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 09:03 AM
  #40  
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I couldn't get 10 outa it but I got 7 or 8
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 09:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Daltonsheets1995
I couldn't get 10 outa it but I got 7 or 8
I'm guessing you mean that it just didn't wind up on 10 when you tightened the clamp down. Not that it wouldn't go to 10. Right? It could make a difference, and we need to understand what is happening because, again, if we start making assumptions on what you are saying then we'll not get the problem solved. Please be very specific and clear with what you tell us, and tell us more rather than less.

If my assumption is correct, then 7 or 8 is ok. It is, actually, close to what the factory spec's probably are. So, how does it run? Did that make a difference? And, what was it on before?

Again, we want to help but you aren't telling us anywhere near enough. Here's what I would have like to have seen in your post:
Ok, I put a timing light on it and found it was at X degrees BTDC. I loosened the clamp and got it to 10 degrees, but when I tightened it down it must have moved because it ended up at 7 or 8 degrees BTDC. Is that ok?

Anyway, it now runs much better than it did. It has more spunk. However, it still does this #$%^& when I take it up through the gears, getting worse with each gear.
PLEASE help us help you by telling us what is going on.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:30 PM
  #42  
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if it wont go to 10* advance then the distributor needs to taken out and put one tooth back !
are the timing chain and cam sprockets new or old ?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #43  
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It won't goto 10 degrees it try's to die when I go that far I'm not sure exactly where it was at but it was pretty far off. I haven't got a chance to take it down the road yet though but I will today
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:55 PM
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Are you 100% SURE that you are going to the BEFORE top dead center side? It should run better rather than worse the further you go, up to some point like 20 degrees. The mark you should be keying off of should be the 10 that is clockwise past the 0 degree mark.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:45 PM
  #45  
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IF IT IS ON THE ADVANCE SIDE OF THE BALANCER AND IT DIES THEN THE BALANCER IS SHOT AND NEEDS REPLACING !
 
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