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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

I need a 500 cfm

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:09 PM
  #16  
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And the whole eggs shape bore stuff, give me a break I'm 16 and this is the first engine I've ever rebuilt
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Daltonsheets1995
And the whole eggs shape bore stuff, give me a break I'm 16 and this is the first engine I've ever rebuilt
I'm sorry if it seems I'm slamming ya, that's not my intention at all.

I was thinking about rebuilding my engine in the same type of fashion you did yours, but some people talked me out of it and I'm glad they did.

Truly rebuilding an engine is both an art and a science, I learned that from some people who either used to do it for a living or presently do.

The bores will become sort-of egg-shaped over time, and the rings will wear to match. Installing perfect circles into egg-shaped bores results in leaks, that's all I'm trying to say.

In any event, it should still run regardless (although with more blowby than normal) so let's continue on and see what people have to say to try and help, OK?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:34 PM
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I understand what your sayin. This has just been a real slow project and a really really tight budget
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Daltonsheets1995
And the whole eggs shape bore stuff, give me a break I'm 16 and this is the first engine I've ever rebuilt
I've done worse things. However, I feel obliged to say that you shouldn't expect great things out of this engine. Chris is right - you put round rings in an egg-shaped hole and are hoping they'll seal properly. I don't think they will. Having said that, 130 PSI isn't bad, so if that is what you have on all cylinders then you should have an engine that will run decently.

You also said that the valves are "seated". Were the seats ground? Or, do you mean they were lapped in? If they were lapped, did you use any kind of marker or dye on the valves and seats and look to see that they sealed all the way around? Or, did you look closely and see a gray area on both valves and seats all the way around?

I'm asking about the valves because compression tests don't usually pick up a leaking valve. The only way to find the condition of the valves, without disassembling the engine, is to run a leak-down test. I literally just finished that on one of my trucks (ok, I used GoJoe before I got to the keyboard), and now know far more than a compression test could tell me. If we don't get it going well soon I'd recommend that test.

So, it doesn't run well except in 1st? How high does it have to wind to run well? What vacuum do you have at idle? We need to get some data on this.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 05:15 PM
  #20  
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TIMING ? SOME TIMES YOU HAVE TO ADVANCE THE TIMING A LITTLE !
WHAT DO YOU HAVE IT SET ON ?
AND ALSO CHECK THE BALANCER TO SEE IF IT LOOKS WORN ( THE RUBBER ) AS THEY CAN SLIP AND THEN YOUR TIMING WILL BE OFF !
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:20 PM
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I haven't even put a timing light on it yet lol I jus got it where it sounds good for now. I will soon though. And I did a valve grind and made sure it had the gray circle all the way around and it did. It gets good power at any idle, itll give you whip lash lol then at first second gear is ok then as the rpms get up it starts t lose it an when I get into 3rd or 4th
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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You may not have enough initial lead, but that usually manifests itself in poor off-idle response. But, it sounds like the problem is not at low revs but at higher revs - right?

Are you sure the timing chain & sprockets went on properly aligned?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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Yeah I used white out to make sure they were perfect. Its like it won't get to high rev period in 4th gear and it barley does in 3rd
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:01 PM
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What do you mean by initial lead?
 

Last edited by ctubutis; Mar 28, 2012 at 11:26 PM. Reason: u = you, please write decently
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:06 PM
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So, to nail down the symptoms, two pages into the thread, it idles well and has good low-end torque. It runs well up through 1st, but has less in each successive gear, to the point it does pull well in 4th. Is that it?

What fuel pump is on it? Maybe it is running out of fuel. But that usually shows up as it just bogging down - wait, isn't that what you said it is doing?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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Initial lead is the timing at idle. You really have to put a timing light on there. We can't play twenty questions without you doing some testing. And the best place to start is with the timing. Give us a follow up post when you get the timing set to something like 10 to 14 degrees BTDC.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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I guess it's not really bogging down it jus does not get up to speed in 3rd or 4th like its real sluggish and has no power what so ever even when I floor it
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
So, to nail down the symptoms, two pages into the thread, it idles well and has good low-end torque. It runs well up through 1st, but has less in each successive gear, to the point it does pull well in 4th. Is that it?

What fuel pump is on it? Maybe it is running out of fuel. But that usually shows up as it just bogging down - wait, isn't that what you said it is doing?
x2, sounds like it's starving for fuel as the load increases. Carb float level, fuel pressure, filter condition would be some items to check.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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I put new floats in the carb an they are level. It has a brand new filter. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is weak or not though
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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Anytime my engine has been starved for fuel, it just won't proceed past a certain RPM, it starts bucking & chugging until I release the throttle a bit.

The fuel pump fills the toil bowl (tank) which feeds the venturis on-demand.
 
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