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surging problem when timing is set.

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 06:30 AM
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kid chuckles
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From: Granbury Tx.
surging problem when timing is set.

94. F150 4.9 fresh rebuild. The timing i am told should be at the Timing Cover tab. I can't get mine there it is at the tab around the Harmonic balancer. The only way i know to get it at the Timing cover tab is to remove and restab the dist. I timed it at the large V in the tab on the balancer and it is very hard to get to idle when first started i have to rev it up quite a bit then it will idle fairly smooth, then is surges when at a steady throttle say 1500 rpm or so don't have tach. The timing light is one i can set the degreees I set it on 0 and at 10deg. on balancer tab, then set the gun on 10 and 0 came up so know i am real close to the 10deg. I am lost I just put new dist. cap, rotor, and wires, has new plugs, I did not change injectors and actually got it running very very rough with # 6 inj. not plugged in. I removed intake and plugged all injectors in correctly. Then did the other stuff. Cap rotor etc. Is there some method to find out if the injectors are working properly I don't have a code dealy. I can take it to Auto Zone and have them run the codes. HELP i am lost. Does the timing tab make that much diff???? does it have to be the timing cover tab??? I also tried holding throttle open and setting by ear when the motor really seems to rev up to what i think it should that way I can't see the timing mark at all and it surges even worse. My ears aren't what they once were lol. HELP HELP HELP. I need this to be my daily driver and pull a small boat now and then.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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Harte3
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"I can take it to Auto Zone and have them run the codes."

Do that.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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kid chuckles
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From: Granbury Tx.
took it to auto zone they did not have the hook up for a 94 model.
Does anyone know if it matters wether you use the timing tab on the timing cover or can u use the one on the harmonic balancer. This thing is driving me crazy it it hard to start and have to rev it up to get it to idle then when driving it will run up ok but when you hold a speed steady it starts jerking or surging. Any ideas fella's.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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1986F150six
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Use the search function and read about setting timing using a vacuum gauge.

I guess you can do this on a 1994... I am used to the older carbureted engines.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:19 AM
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1986 so am I Sir. And for sure not ever worked on a Ford anything before. I am very well versed in a SBC 350.
I ran codes and says code 522. That means not in park while testing or neutral for standards as mine is. I found out that i need to hold clutch down in the start position to do the code tests. Also found out how to test it myself without haveing a code aperatus(sp)
I am pretty sure it is in the fueling somehow. Just don't know where to start exactly and don't want to start replacing stuff i don't need to replace. I am about (well am) tapped out. This 400.00 truck is getting expensive lol.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:39 AM
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I am not experienced with the FI engines, but two thoughts come to mind. Did you pull the "spout" wire connector before you set the timing? Also, the harmonic balancers on our engines are notorious for the outer ring turning WRT the hub so that the mark no longer points to TDC.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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go back to autozone and rent the $150 fuel pressure tester. Use one of the adapters and thread in the tool into the shrader on the back of the fuel rail near the firewall. Turn the key on a few times and check the pressure, should be 50-60 psi.

That will let you know if you have proper fuel pressure. If that passes, you have a spark issue.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:34 PM
  #8  
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From: Granbury Tx.
Fella's i got the codes read finally using the home test method. The only code that comes up is # 33 EGR Valve. I have a volt meter. I got it started and idleing best it can and with the EGR unplugged stuck the prongs up inside. I got no volts. I think this is how you test the voltage. The voltage going to it was 5.01v
Also when you unplug the vacum line should you have suction at the valve or should you have suction on the line going to the Valve? I have not suction at the valve at all. and not suction but kind of a vibration feeling on the line that runs from the EGR to the whatever it is on the side of the block. HELP IM DROWNING sure aint sleeping very well lol. Sufferingant the schrader you speak of is that the deal kinda like a valve stem on a tire? I want to check all possibilites. I can't figure why my check engine light is not coming on either. It comes on when switch is turned on.
 
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