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Turboing my crewcab. any pointers??

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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 04:11 PM
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Turboing my crewcab. any pointers??

Hey. My 77 crewcab is rocking a 351m/400 in it. With a 4sp. 4X4 with a 4bbl Carb. Intake headers and a mild cam. Its pretty quick as it sits now but I want to be able to drop the hammer at 3rd gear and get the rear tires to break loose. Butt I want to keep the motor as stock as I can. Ihave a Turbo. A Holset h2e (hx50) Turbo. I'm curious to know what the bottom end of these motors will handle in terms of boost pressure and horsepower. I'm not screaming the motor...yet. the valves float at 5500rpm. I'm looking at 5-8psi of boost. Stock heads and comp.rat
Any input would be excellent thanks for your time

Oh. And if I blow it apart I have a 460 in my 78 f150 standardcabshorty Flareside to drop in if it happens.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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keeping the motor stock and boost really dont mix. there is a guy that did turbo a 400 but wasnt to great. You need a really good blow through carb setup. You dont get real instant response from turbo's either. Superchargers are better for these motors in my opinion. You can get one for a 400 but there like $3,000.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 05:37 PM
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I don't like superchargers. I love the high pitched whistle of a Turbo. And I hate dealing with belts. They irritate me so I wanted to go withca Turbo. I've got a custom grind cam in the making right now as I am some ported heads. And I don't exactly have 3g just lauying around. And I don't want the instant respons and superchargers are so much harder on an engine then a Turbo. I guess ill just wait and see what the vottom end can handle. My goal is 400-450 rwhp if I can get more .. excellent.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 06:00 PM
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Its pretty quick as it sits now but I want to be able to drop the hammer at 3rd gear and get the rear tires to break loose??
to me that sounds like intstant throttle response like a supercharger!! also how do you plan to get your compression ratio up? also timing and afr are critical on getting it running right.

good luck doing that with a turbo bud!!!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 06:01 PM
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It will be wondrous.
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 06:11 PM
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Idk. If you get the rpm up at a good speed and mash on it the Turbo shouldn't take anytime at all to spool up. And I want to leave the comp ratio stock because of detonation purposes.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 06:33 PM
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I've been doing research on doing this myself. It looks like detonation is a problem with these engines and open chamber heads.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 07:45 PM
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My advise is forged pistons and the right set of heads. I mainly deal with FE's but the factory cast pistons that Ford used in all stock engines will melt the ring lands at the first sign of detonation under boost. Without pulling the engine and building a dedicated turbo engine, my guess is you will have a meltdown of pistons before bottom end gives way. So if you still wanna drive it while building it find another engine to play with.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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Building the turbo system and mocking it up on your truck is one thing, getting it tuned is another. By the time you get it running right and effecient, I bet you'll be close to $3k if not more. Find a local Dyno shop that has delt with blow-through carb tuening and ask the questions to them. Going EFI is more expensive but easier to tune.


IMO.....all that's gona happen is that you will acheive melt down on stock internals. All the money you put into it will be for nothing except a few minutes of fun. Don't get me wrong I've played with turbo's on EFI vehicles and it's easier to tune than your blow-through carbs, but I've popped a few blocks. I've even blew the bottom out of an 2.0 Escort on 9lbs of boost on a stock motor because the owner wanted to see the turbo set up "run" before he installed it on his new motor. We all do things to waste money but get a game plan together and get the knowledge you need BEFORE you jump in head first and blow cash only to never see your project/dream become a reality.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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bottom line turboing aint easy or cheap. If it was everyone would be doing it. all i can say is good luck!! mine own opinon if you want more power just build a 460. there probably one of the cheapest to build!! if you can get a a 69 or 70 there rated at 365hp stock!! little head cam work youll be at 500.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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I installed a turbo on my old 1989 Mazda B2200.
I quickly discovered it was worth the time and extra money to convert from carb to FI.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2012 | 11:22 PM
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From: iron ridge wi.
Sooooo...just toss a set of forged pistons and a good cam and heads. in my 460 and build the Turbo off of that? If that would be cheaper and smarter I might as well justvdo that and do a motor swap. I have the Turbo...and motor...why not put them to use?

I've always wanted a truck that I have to be afraid to put the skinny pedal down
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 01:05 AM
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How much research have you done on turbo systems? I've looked into boosting my FE, I'll rattle off some quick prices on things to You will need and want for the skinny pedal scare you want. First off ditch the carb and get an aftermarket fuel injection for ease of tuning($1000ish) truck intercooler new is gonna be 400 used ?, Universal piping kit is 170 plan on getting 2 of them cuz its a full size truck and well you will cut one short. Pistons are about $40 each from Jegs, heads are $1800 a pair for aluminum, not to mention how much it's gonna cost at the machine shop for the boring and fitting of the pistons. Now keep in mind this $5000 price tag is all new components but some stuff you need to buy new other stuff a junkyard can supply but never the less IT AIN'T CHEAP. That's all
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 01:32 AM
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Oh and one more thing for more of the scare your wanting put it in the F150.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 07:03 AM
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Have you looked at the compressor map for that hairdryer? At 351 inches and 5-8psi, that's a max flow rate in the low 40lbs/sec range with a wide map. A rebuilt T3/4 hybrid is about right for that motor. I wouldn't put a turbo within six feet of that motor without plans for water/meth injection either.
 
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