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Hiya. Do any of you guys know where I can find a Fuel Filter tool online? I've been to a few auto parts stores around me and can't find one My fuel filter needs changing....bad, and I can't get the dang thing off. I have a '96 Ranger, V6 3.0.
I recently bought mine at my local NAPA auto parts store. I got the good ones that are made of metal. List price was $25 for it. I didn't pay that much though cause my uncle works there.
I got mine at Autozone for $5 or $6. It was metal and had two sizes on it. I just checked their site online, but I couldn't find it listed. I'm sure it's there if I had the exact part number, but I can't check that till I get home after work. I called Autozone, but the guy could only find the nylon one on the shelf which was a number 800-055. I have no luck with Autozone's site though. They want you to list the specific car, but tools aren't well indexed to the cars.
I almost succeeded at making one out of a plastic pencap. The tool is nothing too extraordinary, just a ring to go around the line, slip into the connector, and push the little springs outward.
If you really can't find it, email me and I'll send you mine to use for the job.
Update: I found it elsewhere online. Did a search for "fuel line quick disconnect tool" and got this. This is pretty much (if not the exact one resold by Autozone) that I have.Looks like the KD3321 is the one you want, but the KD3290 may also work (just has 2 more sizes on it).
No problem. When you get the tool and try to do the job, just remember that the tool makes it possible, not easy. It took some fidgeting to get in place with the tool and push it into the connector with one hand while holding/pushing the line/connector toward the filter with the other. It's kind tough cause you are reaching up into the frame rail, but definitely doable.
Be sure to depressurize the fuel system before doing it or you will be drinking a lot of fuel.
Depressurizing the fuel system is pretty easy (at least it was in my truck). There is an inertia switch that shuts off the fuel pump in an accident. Taking the electrical connector off this cuts power to the fuel pump. If you then turn the key, the truck will try to start and will die after a second or two (from a lack of fuel). Turn the key and let it try to crank for a few more seconds. Fuel system is depressurized. To repressurize, just reconnect the electrical connector when you are done with installing the filter, and start the car. It may take a second to charge the line, so you are best off turning the key to the ON for a few seconds letting the fuel pump pressurize, then turning it to Start.
Toughest part is locating the switch. In my 98 Mazda B3000 it was behind the passenger's side floor carpet on the firewall, towards the passenger's side. A Haynes manual (or someone with a Ford) may tell you the exact location for a Ranger. The Mazda had a gray connector on a black switch body with a red botton on top. You need a screwdriver or something to pry the little tab up so you can pull the connector off.
Once the system is depressurized and you take the lines off the filter, there will still be gas in the lines themselves and the filter. Be sure to have a small empty container to let them drain into. There shouldn't be too much gas, and it shouldn't be squirting out as though it is under pressure.
A lot of people will say that Haynes sucks, and I acknowledge it's shortcomings on some detailed work as well as model-year specific items, but some of the procedures are well written out. If you are new to wrenching a car, it is a decent place to check to make sure that I (or anyone else) am not just some boob on the internet telling you how to destroy your truck by doing routine maintenance wrong. The fuel filter was fairly well covered along with some other tuneup items that I noticed you might be interested in from your other thread.
It will also give you some common sense warnings like when to disconnect the battery and how to minimize your chances of igniting gasoline while doing the fuel filter change, that someone else (like me) might take for granted that you know (ie, mentioning depressurizing the fuel system to you was an afterthought for me, because I knew to do it).
A lot of people will say that Haynes sucks, and I acknowledge it's shortcomings on some detailed work as well as model-year specific items, but some of the procedures are well written out.
I have the Chilton's Manual for my Ranger. I refer to it whenever I go digging in my truck. I am new to wrenching, so I'm hesitant to do too much. I know that I do want to learn how to maintain my own vehicles. I'm sick of gettin' ripped off at the auto shops
This is a great forum that I'm glad I found. I will be visiting OFTEN.
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