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I have read than worn or sticking IPRs will cause poor idle and longer starts when hot. Mine seems to be leaking oil and I have rougher idle and longer start up when hot. I do not have access to a scanner.
I bought the o-ring kit from Bob to reseal the IPR. will a leaking internal o-ring cause those conditions? Or is it mechanical wear requiring total replacement.
Truck has 198k and dont mind putting a new part on but figured $11 o-ring kits is the first logical step.
If it is leaking oil then it needs new o-rings and while you have it out make sure the the valve action is ok. You can do this without taking it apart. See the bottom of page 3 in the below attached PDF. If it seems to stick then you can try some solvent. If it still sticks you will have to take it apart.
Also check the ohms on the winding of the solenoid. It should be between 10 and 10.8 ohms and steady. If the reading fluctuates then the winding is going bad and can cause a rough idle. The solenoid is what opens and closes the valve and also holds it steady for a smooth idle. If the winding is inconsistent the valve will no be held steady nor open and close smoothly.
Dumb question but if I ohm it is that at the female connector on the ipr with the pigtail disconnected, power off?
That's right. Ohm across the 2 pins on the solenoid.
The PCM uses a 400 hertz signal to control the IPR. The IPR controls how much high pressure oil reaches the injectors which
is the ICP. The amount of ICP determines how much fuel is injected and that determines RPM.
If it is leaking oil then it needs new o-rings and while you have it out make sure the the valve action is ok. You can do this without taking it apart. See the bottom of page 3 in the below attached PDF. If it seems to stick then you can try some solvent. If it still sticks you will have to take it apart.
Also check the ohms on the winding of the solenoid. It should be between 10 and 10.8 ohms and steady. If the reading fluctuates then the winding is going bad and can cause a rough idle. The solenoid is what opens and closes the valve and also holds it steady for a smooth idle. If the winding is inconsistent the valve will no be held steady nor open and close smoothly.
I just checked mine, since I'm doing the same thing right now- (sorry to tag along on this post) and my meter fluctuates for a few seconds, but then settles in at 10.4 and stays there.
Is the initial fluctuation normal, or a cause for concern?
I just checked mine, since I'm doing the same thing right now- (sorry to tag along on this post) and my meter fluctuates for a few seconds, but then settles in at 10.4 and stays there.
Is the initial fluctuation normal, or a cause for concern?
You are fine, initial fluctuations can be caused from a lot of things. Initial "Charge" of the windings, or simply you had the meter in "auto" ranging or similar and it was settling in on the correct range.
One last question for me, and I'll post it on spongecop's thread as it may help him as well.
I got my IPR out and rebuilt, and re-installed. After I put it all back on the truck and tightened down the 3/4 tin retaining nut, I do notice that there is a very slight side-to-side movement on the solenoid- I don't remember if it was there or not beforehand, but I think I've tightened down the retaining nut as much as I care to without damaging it.
Is just a bit of movement normal on the solenoid? If not, the only other thing I can think of is maybe to take the nut back off, and reinstall it turned around so that the 'flat' side of the nut is making contact with the spacer as opposed to the 'indented' side of the nut-
I got my IPR out and rebuilt, and re-installed. After I put it all back on the truck and tightened down the 3/4 tin retaining nut, I do notice that there is a very slight side-to-side movement on the solenoid
That type of twisting movement won't affect how the needle valve moves back and forth inside the IPR. The nut is to prevent the solenoid from sliding back and forth on the IPR barrel which would affect the needle.
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