'93 F-250 WINDOW PROBLEM
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New User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Fresno, CA
'93 F-250 WINDOW PROBLEM
I'm having a problem with my passenger window. The window goes down fine, but if it is lowered more than 2 inches, it will not go up. The motor works but nothing happens, just a sort of clicking sound. I have to push on it as much as I can while the switch is on to move it back up.
I looked at the regulator and it looks fine. The teeth on the round gear aren't worn and the gear plate isn't warped or bent.
When the motor is removed and powered, it turns the metal worm gear smoothly in both directions and makes a nice drill like sound. Other threads talk about disintegrated plastic gears, but mine is metal and shows little or no wear. It took more than a little force to stop the wormgear when I wedged a screwdriver against it with the motor running. There was lubricant on the gear but a lot of rubbery yellow chunks (crystallized grease?)
Time to regrease and rebuild? But as I said, the the wormgear turns fine, at least with the motor out.
I looked at the regulator and it looks fine. The teeth on the round gear aren't worn and the gear plate isn't warped or bent.
When the motor is removed and powered, it turns the metal worm gear smoothly in both directions and makes a nice drill like sound. Other threads talk about disintegrated plastic gears, but mine is metal and shows little or no wear. It took more than a little force to stop the wormgear when I wedged a screwdriver against it with the motor running. There was lubricant on the gear but a lot of rubbery yellow chunks (crystallized grease?)
Time to regrease and rebuild? But as I said, the the wormgear turns fine, at least with the motor out.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
There are three plastic "snubbers" behind the metal gear that frequently disintegrate over time. Great write-up here from the Lightning crowd: Tech: How To Fix Window Motor Gear Slippage - The National Lightning Owners Club Inc
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New User
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From: Fresno, CA
Thanks, Ria2005, right on
Now I see that the "snubbers" you mentioned could be called "fillers" too. The pictures on your link turned the light on for me. I'll just get some ss nuts and dab some grease and it's not a big deal at all.
Now I see that the "snubbers" you mentioned could be called "fillers" too. The pictures on your link turned the light on for me. I'll just get some ss nuts and dab some grease and it's not a big deal at all.
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Blooming Grove ,tx
i have already looked at it and it seemed to be riveted but i did not want to start drilling on it if there was bolts i did not see . is riveting them back in the way to go ?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
If you have the large rivet tool it would be very easy. If not, some good quality hardware with Loctite would be my suggestion.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Fresno, CA
So far so good. It took some time to get the nuts lined up. It's a tight fit. A slight bit of grinding on the contact faces is helpful. I used 7/16" nuts as the article suggested. My motor wasn't riveted in and I just reused the original screws.
The motor is a little bit louder and not as high pitched a whirr as before with the plastic snuggers. The plastic ones worked for 62000 mi.
Will put the panel back on this weekend. Thanks, rla2005, where do I mail the check? I read somewhere that one Ford dealer charged $500. for this job. Amazing if true.
The motor is a little bit louder and not as high pitched a whirr as before with the plastic snuggers. The plastic ones worked for 62000 mi.
Will put the panel back on this weekend. Thanks, rla2005, where do I mail the check? I read somewhere that one Ford dealer charged $500. for this job. Amazing if true.
Last edited by nativam; Apr 12, 2012 at 10:33 PM.
New User
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Carson City, NV
I work as a mechanic and have replaced many of these riveted units. Most shops I've worked at did not have a big rivet tool or rivets so I re-installed them with bolts and nuts in place of the rivets with no problems. I usually find 1/4 inch bolts fit well, flat washers, and locking nuts if available. Put the bolts through from the inside to avoid any clearance issues. On some models you have to install 2 or 3 bolts and nuts then run the motor up or down to have clearance to instal the last one or two.
The only problem I've seen with replacing the rivets with bolts and nuts is sometimes when people don't use locking nuts, the nuts will work loose from vibration after time.
The only problem I've seen with replacing the rivets with bolts and nuts is sometimes when people don't use locking nuts, the nuts will work loose from vibration after time.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
So far so good. It took some time to get the nuts lined up. It's a tight fit. A slight bit of grinding on the contact faces is helpful. I used 7/16" nuts as the article suggested. My motor wasn't riveted in and I just reused the original screws.
The motor is a little bit louder and not as high pitched a whirr as before with the plastic snuggers. The plastic ones worked for 62000 mi.
Will put the panel back on this weekend. Thanks, rla2005, where do I mail the check? I read somewhere that one Ford dealer charged $500. for this job. Amazing if true.
The motor is a little bit louder and not as high pitched a whirr as before with the plastic snuggers. The plastic ones worked for 62000 mi.
Will put the panel back on this weekend. Thanks, rla2005, where do I mail the check? I read somewhere that one Ford dealer charged $500. for this job. Amazing if true.
Make all checks payable to cash.....then drop it off at your local Habitat for Humanity chapter.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Fresno, CA
After a year plus five months, my passenger window still works well. I don't notice the change in sound when the motor works now. You beat Ford engineering, ria2005!!
, ria2005!!
Last edited by nativam; Sep 19, 2013 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Better perspective
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2014
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rla2005,
I used the directions from the Lightning link you posted and fixed the passenger side pwr window on my 1990 F250 today. That was a great tutorial! I didn't have to remove any rivets and didn't cost me any money!
I read the tutorial last week but didn't fix it until today. That link is not working for me today, glad I remember what I read last week!
I used the directions from the Lightning link you posted and fixed the passenger side pwr window on my 1990 F250 today. That was a great tutorial! I didn't have to remove any rivets and didn't cost me any money!
I read the tutorial last week but didn't fix it until today. That link is not working for me today, glad I remember what I read last week!