I recently sold my 99 250 with the 6.8l in favor of an '05 with a 6.0l. All I can say so far, is I wish I'd made this decision a long time ago. Gas prices are at a point where the V-10 is just plain too expensive to drive. 8-10 miles per gallon is hard to swallow.


I am the owner of a small construction company and use the truck for service. The truck averages 50 miles of mixed freeway and city driving per day.It has 118,000 miles on it, and I am the third owner. The previous 2 owners had it setup for fleet use as a stake bed; single rear wheel, 4 wheel drive, XL supercab longbed. I got it last week and installed a ladder rack and utility bed and removed the stake bed to suit my needs. It weighs in at 10,300 pounds loaded with tools in this configuration. The turbo was replaced by the dealer as he picked it up broken at an auction. I took the vehicle to a ford dealer before purchase and it was given a clean bill of health minus a power steering fluid change needed. After a week of driving, the alternator died. I replaced it with a 140amp lifetime warranty deal from autozone. It has a rough idle for the first 15-30 seconds after start-up when cold. After it is warm, it starts nicely and has lots of power. Transmission shifts cleanly and firmly, and a very nice upgrade to the unit in the old '99. 3.73. gears, open diff., floor mounted t-case shifter and manual hubs.


I paid $16,000 including tax, licensing, etc. Now, where I need help. Since I knew beforehand that I was going to have a 100k+ vehicle, given my budget and needs, I set aside $1,500 for maintenance upon purchase. I would like to address any known issues and essentially give the truck a clean start. This is mostly for piece of mind as I believe the drive-train is in good condition. I am doing an oil change and probably a new power steering pump tomorrow. The current one whines when I have the wheel maxed out to either side. I know the fluid is bad, but doubt changing it will fix the whine. And even if it does, I know already that the current one has been neglected. Any suggestions on engine oil and power steering brand/type to use in Southern California?

What would be the most important things to do after I'm done with those two?

 

With the alternator going bad you need to check your batteries because weak or bad batteries will kill your FICM may be your bad cold starts they come stock with 750CCA bateries i would put in 850CCA batteries.
The price of a new ficm around $1100 or you can have your rebuilt at BPD http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Repair_Service_for_your_Ford_6_0L_FICM_p/ficm_rebuild.htm for $300
or--- http://ficmrepair.com/ My choice
Info here http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/subsites/diag/6.0L_FICM_Guide.pdf
and here http://swampsdiesel.com/site/installation_instructions/pdf_instructions/FICM_Voltage_Testing.pdf
Testing the FICM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSQ9lxr2oN4&NR=1
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Bob, your user name make me chuckle! Smilin' Bob.

Your rough morning starts may be a little injector stiction. You can usually help that by using a synthetic 5W/40. A lot of us use Rotella T-6. Costs a little more but most 6.0 run nicely on it. Make sure whatever oil you use is API CJ-4 rated or better. Hopefully you can prolong your injector life by using that oil or another brand with the same rating.

Your power steering unit needs Mercon ATF fluid, NOT power steering fluid. Any Mercon ATF or Mercon V compatible fluid is okay, but I think it is worth using a synthetic like Mobil 1 ATF.

Your transmission needs Mercon SP. You can also use the newer Mercon LV, but personally I am sticking with the SP. I would also use the genuine Motorcraft Mercon SP, not a compatible. The wrong fluid screws these trannys up, per the experts. You need a fluid change every 30k miles, so unless you know when it was last changed, best get it changed to start your ownership.

On a 100k truck, you will want to service the differentials. Again, synthetic is required. Your owners manual gives the spec. Also service your transfer case, which requires Mercon ATF. I used the Mobil 1 synthetic on this too, but that is your choice.

Brake fluid needs to be flushed. Use DOT 3. Do not be tempted to "upgrade" to a later fluid.

Check your FICM volts asap. The rough startup can also be a symptom of low FICM volts. You'll find info on that in the tech folder.

 

IMO you need some gauges and let the Numbers tell you what needs to be addressed

I use a ScanGaugeII its 160.00 and has 30-40 gauges that will pertain to the 6,0L

check it out
www.scangauge.com

other than that change all fluids and start Fresh

Good Luck and Enjoy

 

Wow, yes the scan tool seems like an excellent value. So that and change all my fluids.

What are opinions on the combination oil/coolant bypass filter by amsoil?

Also is this a good idea to get right away, or wait until I need it?
Complete Solution(TM) for Ford 6.0L Powerstroke with Sinister EGR Delete Kit, Oil Cooler, ARP Studs and SCT X3

I want reliability first and foremost. The tuner would be used for the economy program only, perhaps the milder towing program every once in a while too.

 

That set has the Black Onyx HG's bad deal some have went through 2 sets, must use Ford HG's plus you need the gauges to see where you are when it comes to the health of your motor and a coolant filter.
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Okay, started tearing into everything today. Just as a disclaimer, I knew I'd be working on this truck when I got it, the question was simply how much. I talked to the ford mechanic before I bought while it was being inspected and he informed me that the turbos, based on his experience, generally make it 80-120k before dying. Knowing I has a brand new one gave me some much needed confidence in buying an ex-fleet vehicle with 100k+ on the odometer.

Anyhow, I was going to test the FICM voltage today and noticed that the batteries are only 720 CCA. Is this a big deal? And what benefit would I see by going to ones rated at 850?

Also, the specs recommend a 15w40. Benefits to going to a 5W?

 

The 720CCA batteries won't hurt anything as long as they are in good condition and holding a charge. They won't be a factor in checking the FICM voltage. You will need batteries soon enough anyway. Load test them if in doubt.

Make sure you check the FICM voltage on a totally cold engine. In the morning before the first start up is best.

15W/40 is the standard OEM oil. The 5W/40 has the same 40 weight protection for the engine when it is hot, but the 5W is lower viscosity when the engine is cold. Since your injectors are fired with high pressure oil, they work better with the low viscosity 5W when the engine is first started. The synthetic is also better at resisting breakdown at high temps found in the turbo. Cold injector stiction is the main reason to go with the 5W.

Many of us experienced cleaner cold starts the first day after changing to the synthetic oil.